edandsandy
Active member
very impressive George!
Are you going to tile the floor in front of the tank?
Are you going to tile the floor in front of the tank?
Lightsluvr's 340G Upgrade
- Thread starter Lightsluvr
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Yes, there will be a 20" strip of tile in front of the tank...
LL
I'm not sure I understand your question about cracking the CL holes?
There will be two US Plastics strainers on the (2) CL intakes - there will be (5) Pacific Coast Flow Accelerators on the CL returns. The strainers and returns will be raised up several inches to get above the sandbed...flow will be directed counter-clockwise toward the surface...
If I'm a clever guy, I'll be able to conceal the strainers and eductors in or behind aquascaping...
I have 320# of sand on my front porch that needs to go somewhere...
LL
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15280839#post15280839 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Lightsluvr
There will be two US Plastics strainers on the (2) CL intakes - like these:
There will be (5) Pacific Coast Flow Accelerators on the CL returns, like these:
The strainers and returns will be raised up several inches to get above the sandbed...flow will be directed counter-clockwise toward the surface...
LL
Marc,
If you were to take the two sumps I am using, what would you put in there?
In the acrylic, I was planning a 5-6" DSB with Chaeto floating on top...
I am planning on LR in the Rubbermaid.
LL
melev
Well-known member
I would probably make it a bigger return section, drilling holes so that both zones were shared (or cut out the baffles as much as possible), putting one or two baffles after the original ones next to the input section.
Then that would be my return. I might put my calcium reactor, phospan reactors, etc in there.
Is the tank getting a DSB? If not, I think the Rubbermaid vat would hold my DSB and macro algae. I doubt I would have a LR vat going. Why are you doing that, anyway?
Then that would be my return. I might put my calcium reactor, phospan reactors, etc in there.
Is the tank getting a DSB? If not, I think the Rubbermaid vat would hold my DSB and macro algae. I doubt I would have a LR vat going. Why are you doing that, anyway?
How does this sound:
Rubbermaid - LR in bottom 2/3 - float macroalgae on top. Already plumbed for my reactors and plenty of room to mount them in the Rubbermaid.
Acrylic - DSB only, in a reduced sized center chamber. Enlarge the return chamber by using hole saw to drill out the baffles on return side. Add an additional baffle on overflow side with a foam bubble trap to reduce micro-bubbles...
Any thoughts - something like that on the website?
LL
melev
Well-known member
What about this:
Rubbermaid - DSB in the entire vat, LR on top of that. You'd have a larger amount of sand in the vat than you will in the sump.
Acrylic - Macro algae only. If you put macro with the LR, you will end up making the rock unusable later because no-one ever intentionally introduces macro into their tank. Right?
Don't add the foam bubble trap; it only adds work in that you will have to always clean it or ask someone else to do so when you travel on vacation.
Rubbermaid - DSB in the entire vat, LR on top of that. You'd have a larger amount of sand in the vat than you will in the sump.
Acrylic - Macro algae only. If you put macro with the LR, you will end up making the rock unusable later because no-one ever intentionally introduces macro into their tank. Right?
Don't add the foam bubble trap; it only adds work in that you will have to always clean it or ask someone else to do so when you travel on vacation.
I like that idea. Can you toss me a diagram (or photo) of how you suggest I handle the existing baffles and add the new one on the feed side?
I was going to use a 2-3/8" hole saw to drill openings in the existing baffles (the ones facing the center chamber) to bring the water level down - this is a very unusually configured sump.
Overflow side (6" wide)
Baffle #1. - 1-1/2" opening at bottom 21" high -
2 inch between baffles
Baffle #2. - 19" high glued to the bottom
Center chamber (23" wide)
Baffle # 3. - 17" high glued to bottom
2 inches between baffles
Baffle # 4 - 19" 1-1/2" opening at bottom 19" high
Return chamber 13"
This configuration causes the overflow chamber to fill all the way to 19" before it overflows into the center chamber. When the center is filled to 17" it starts to overflow into the return. It looks like baffle #3 currently controls the water level in the sump...agree?
So what do you recommend if I just put macroalgae in the center chamber... how should I drill the existing baffles and where to place the new baffle to accomplish the goal of greater capacity when pumps are turned off...
LL
Me, too. I could just put the Chaeto in the Acrylic with a lowered water level in the center and return chambers. Hopefully March can give me some inspiration so I can cut this baby up...
LL
melev
Well-known member
With the sump not installed permanently yet, you could get one or two baffles cut and glued into the sump after the current baffles. I prefer over-under-over. You have two baffes in there now, starting with under-then-over. If you added baffles now, I would put another 18" baffle, raised up 1.5" from the base of the sump, then a 16" baffle adhered to the base. They can be 1.5" apart so you don't lose all your real estate in the refugium zone.
For the baffles going to the return section, you could cut them out entirely if you liked, leaving whatever you must behind. A Saws-all or jigsaw would be all you need. Instead install a large panel of eggcrate to keep the plants in their zone and out of the actual return section. The material left behind from the former baffle would be a good way to secure the eggcrate sheet in place with zip ties.
I did this for the LFS near my house, and the shared refugium & return section ended up working out very well. He can sell livestock all day long and the return pump doesn't suck in air. If he had to acclimate a lot of new arrivals, the sump handled the raised water level just as easily because the two zones worked together.
If you don't want to cut the baffles out, you can just drill lots of holes, then place the eggcrate over the panel to act as a guard to keep the plants in their zone. You can also put a piece across the baffle just before the refugium, so the plants can't float backwards when the pumps are off. I like keeping them in their spot no matter what.
Here are a few pictures I dug up.
Water goes into the sump from these valves, the floss traps junk as water flows down into the skimmer section.
Skimmer section
Water flows from the right to the left in this picture. Eggcrate on both sides to keep the plants where they belong.
Picture from the end. Note the baffles aren't completely removed. Instead, I left some material so the sump would be strong, and cut the eggcrate to fit that shape. A few pieces of acrylic were glued to keep it in place, but small holes and zip ties would do the same thing.
OK - so in the described configuration, the new (over) feed baffle determines the "normal" operating level of the refugium and return chamber - that is - at 16", correct?
I will need to find someone who sells small pieces of acrylic - or can I just cut some glass and silicone it in there?
I will cut out holes in the current return baffles and let them flow freely into the return chamber.
Any other thoughts?
LL
melev
Well-known member
Yes, 16" is what it would be as that is the final "over" baffle.
You can buy acrylic at Home Depot or Lowes. Be sure it is 1/4" thick or thicker, so it won't bow. You'll need some type of acrylic solvent to glue it in, and the pieces really have to be cut precisely to fit perfectly. Not too snug, not too loose. Like Goldilocks said, "Mmmm.. this one's just right."
You can buy acrylic at Home Depot or Lowes. Be sure it is 1/4" thick or thicker, so it won't bow. You'll need some type of acrylic solvent to glue it in, and the pieces really have to be cut precisely to fit perfectly. Not too snug, not too loose. Like Goldilocks said, "Mmmm.. this one's just right."
George,
Seems like you could go with what you have, cut lots of holes in the down flow sections and put the eggcrate in place to keep algae in place.
If you want the third baffle in the intake, Regal will sell it from their scrap section.
jimminie I hate posting at the same time as melev
Seems like you could go with what you have, cut lots of holes in the down flow sections and put the eggcrate in place to keep algae in place.
If you want the third baffle in the intake, Regal will sell it from their scrap section.
jimminie I hate posting at the same time as melev
Too late - no turning back...
Too late - no turning back...
Well, I just drilled five 2-3/8" holes in the return baffle (the one glued to the bottom...) I centered the holes at 16", so the water will stay at that level until I change something else...
Marc, what do I gain by adding the new baffles on the feed side?
LL
Too late - no turning back...
Well, I just drilled five 2-3/8" holes in the return baffle (the one glued to the bottom...) I centered the holes at 16", so the water will stay at that level until I change something else...
Marc, what do I gain by adding the new baffles on the feed side?
LL
Holy sump, Batman!
Holes on the return side...
Current baffles:
Feed side: It looks like the feed chamber would flow under the first baffle, up to 19" in the feed chamber and down the second baffle...
Then it would fill up the center chamber until it reached the five drilled holes, then flow under the final baffle.
I could put egg-crate over the holes and keep my macroalgae in this chamber. The existing baffles would keep the macro from floating into any other chamber...
Wouldn't this be adequate for my purposes if I just keep macro in the center chamber?
Whaddya think, Marc and Lynn? (Yes, I'm looking for the Q&D way out - I'm falling behind schedule...)
LL
Holes on the return side...
Current baffles:
Feed side: It looks like the feed chamber would flow under the first baffle, up to 19" in the feed chamber and down the second baffle...
Then it would fill up the center chamber until it reached the five drilled holes, then flow under the final baffle.
I could put egg-crate over the holes and keep my macroalgae in this chamber. The existing baffles would keep the macro from floating into any other chamber...
Wouldn't this be adequate for my purposes if I just keep macro in the center chamber?
Whaddya think, Marc and Lynn? (Yes, I'm looking for the Q&D way out - I'm falling behind schedule...)
LL
Optical delusion...
Optical delusion...
It's an optical "delusion" but I promise those five holes are drilled in the interior baffle - it sure looks like they're in the raised baffle...
The holes will set the water level for both the center chamber and return chamber... the way I figure it, I now have 45 gallons of backflow capacity in this sump...and pump startup should no longer be a problem...
I think I'm happy with this configuration, unless I really stand to gain a lot by adding two additional baffles...
Suggestions?
LL
Optical delusion...
It's an optical "delusion" but I promise those five holes are drilled in the interior baffle - it sure looks like they're in the raised baffle...
The holes will set the water level for both the center chamber and return chamber... the way I figure it, I now have 45 gallons of backflow capacity in this sump...and pump startup should no longer be a problem...
I think I'm happy with this configuration, unless I really stand to gain a lot by adding two additional baffles...
Suggestions?
LL
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