Here are the tanks I am using in the water management system: http://www.gototanks.com/VT0065-23.aspx
Thanks for reading - hope you subscribe and check back often.
LL
Lightsluvr's 340G Upgrade
- Thread starter Lightsluvr
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Here are the tanks I am using in the water management system: http://www.gototanks.com/VT0065-23.aspx
Thanks for reading - hope you subscribe and check back often.
LL
Brad Rogers
Member
This has been such an inspirational build!!! Very imformative and fun!!
I have a question about how you are maintaining your calcium. Did I read correctly that you are using both kalkwasser and a calcium reactor? I don't have a lot of experience with this, but I'm not sure if I have ran across using them in combination. If this is what you are doing, do you mind explaining some of the theory behind this?
I have a question about how you are maintaining your calcium. Did I read correctly that you are using both kalkwasser and a calcium reactor? I don't have a lot of experience with this, but I'm not sure if I have ran across using them in combination. If this is what you are doing, do you mind explaining some of the theory behind this?
Brad Rogers
Member
This has been such an inspirational build!!! Very imformative and fun!!
I have a question about how you are maintaining your calcium. Did I read correctly that you are using both kalkwasser and a calcium reactor? I don't have a lot of experience with this, but I'm not sure if I have ran across using them in combination. If this is what you are doing, do you mind explaining some of the theory behind this?
I have a question about how you are maintaining your calcium. Did I read correctly that you are using both kalkwasser and a calcium reactor? I don't have a lot of experience with this, but I'm not sure if I have ran across using them in combination. If this is what you are doing, do you mind explaining some of the theory behind this?
Brad Rogers
Member
hmmm...sorry for the dbl post, not quite sure how that happened
Did you finish the water change system yet? I'm interested to see how it turns out. Was edandsandy's system that ran two water tanks like that where one always ran with the system and to change out the water they simply closed off the valve on one and opened the valve on the other and the water change was complete. Then one tank could be drained and refilled. I always thought that system was neat. It pumped bottom to top IIRC. Wish I had the space - maybe one day!
I'm alway a big fan of the Tunze Osmolator and Kalk Dispenser. However in the last two years I've had the pump die twice so make sure you always have a spare. The first time it died just before I was going away for 10 days - bad timing. So I always make sure I have a spare or 2. It busted just the other day but I was able to change it immediately. Looks like mine are lasting around 2 years.
I'm alway a big fan of the Tunze Osmolator and Kalk Dispenser. However in the last two years I've had the pump die twice so make sure you always have a spare. The first time it died just before I was going away for 10 days - bad timing. So I always make sure I have a spare or 2. It busted just the other day but I was able to change it immediately. Looks like mine are lasting around 2 years.
Thanks for the nice comments, Brad!
The Kalkwasser dispenser in the Tunze Osmolator is insufficient to have much of an effect on calcium levels in the tank; it will do more to keep PH stable in the tank...
I really haven't had to dose much for calcium since I began using Reef Crystals rather then Instant Ocean salt mix. However, after I get the tank up and running, I will manually dose to get CA, dKH and MG to ideal levels*, and then use the CA Reactor to maintain those levels... that's the theory anyway. This will be be my first CA reactor, and will be the last piece of equipment to go online...(after I get the Apex controller installed and programmed). So there wil be a learning curve that I will document here...
LL
*CA - 450
dKH - 9.5
MG - 1350
Thanks for stopping by and leaving a note...
I love your signature; We are also survivors of the great RC blackout of 2009 - and figured that our detailed build thread had gone "poof"...
But as beerguy commented, the "the reports of Reef Central's demise have been greatly exagerated..."
Come back often!
LL
I have just roughed in the suction side of the system, as depicted in the photos...having some issues with placement of the bulkheads to be driled in the "shoulders" of the tanks, and making the plumbing fit properly. I may resort to a short section of flexible PVC to make it all come together properly. (I already plan to use the flexible stuff to run the water change feed to the sump)
Edandsandy's (also Glassreef's) system has two tanks. One holds RO/DI directly from the RO/DI filter system. Using a single pump and proper valve placement, you can pump the RO/DI into the second tank. Then using the same pump, you can mix and constantly circulate new saltwater in the second tank.
Finally, in my system, I will gravity drain between 55G and 65G from a sump or the DT, and this will be replaced by pumping the new saltwater mix into a sump, all while the DT return pump continues to run.
The nice thing is that the new saltwater is co-mingled with the old in a 100G sump; there is minimal disruption to the occupants of the DT. In fact, unless other maintenance is being performed, such as changing filter socks, it is not necessary to shut down the returns and overflows during the water change.
In theory, it will be a "dry hands" water change. I have watched Sandy do her water change on their build thread. I modified their system slightly to accomodate the plumbing differences in our systems. We'll know next Saturday if it works as planned - that's the date for the first complete use of our system.
I have a spare Osmolator pump motor. You are right - it is a cheap investment. It has been sitting in the box for almost a year. I hope it stays there...
The Osmolator is the only ATO I have ever used, and I have a pair of them. I will actually be installing the second one on our 34G Solana seahorse tank... sounds like overkill, but maintaining levels in the 34G is a bigger PIA than a 500G system! Go figure.
Stay tuned...
LL
edandsandy
Active member
Looks great! As you noted there are always mods for your specific set up!
Are you going to use the banjo fittings for water changes? They are great as they allow for quick disconnects!
I would recommend you use a water resistant paint on every surface on the board under your plastic tanks. Otherwise over time the board will warp and begin to come apart... I had plenty of FRP board left over and used that to covered the board.....
I drilled my bulkheads on the top as high as possible on the tanks... This created awkward angles for the pipe inside the tanks but this is easily overcome with the use of 45's - I used two per pipe..... I placed my float valve as high as possible on the side of the RO fill tank - this allows you to use the majority of the tank! We ended up with several holes in the top for a heater, thermometers, and one extra stir pump in the salt tank (can never have too much circulation!).
Are you going to use the banjo fittings for water changes? They are great as they allow for quick disconnects!
I would recommend you use a water resistant paint on every surface on the board under your plastic tanks. Otherwise over time the board will warp and begin to come apart... I had plenty of FRP board left over and used that to covered the board.....
I drilled my bulkheads on the top as high as possible on the tanks... This created awkward angles for the pipe inside the tanks but this is easily overcome with the use of 45's - I used two per pipe..... I placed my float valve as high as possible on the side of the RO fill tank - this allows you to use the majority of the tank! We ended up with several holes in the top for a heater, thermometers, and one extra stir pump in the salt tank (can never have too much circulation!).
Brad Rogers
Member
your the second one in the last week to suggest I change from instant ocean to reef crystals...for the same reason.
I guess I'll give it a try.
Where do buy your salt from?
No banjo fitting - I will hard plumb the outlow directly to the sump, where the new saltwater will be pumped to replace the old SW. You'll notice a "T" fitting and a seventh double union valve in the pump outflow pipe. I'll shut the valves going to the tanks and open the valves on the T, and the SW will pump to the sump...
No need to pump freshwater to a sump, as I have a separate reservoir just for ATO. The RO/DI filter makes water and sends it to one of two places: 1.) the 65G storage tank, for later use to mix SW, or 2.) the 27G ATO reservoir.
I will remember the tip about drilling the bulkheads as high as possibe... I have a hole saw and will be drilling the bulkheads holes shortly.
What type of powerhead did you put in the SW tank to supplement flow? I have a few spare modified MJ1200's with Sure-Grip magnets...that would add super circulation for mixing SW!
Did you make holes in the top for the thermometer, heaters, etc. or just run them through the 7" opening?
Thanks again!
LL
Whoever has the best price at the time (watch for specials). I bought some from Petsmart.com when they offered free shipping. Also have bought from Marine Depot, Drs F&S, and even Petco, I think. I buy the 160G or 200G sizes...
LL
Finish & trim progress:
Finish & trim progress:
I reached a stopping place in the water change system, (meaning it was time to run to Lowes for more fittings), so instead I decided to tackle the top cover again... after much thought and measurement, here is what I came up with:
This is the top view:
and the bottom view:
There is an eight foot long 1x8 that forms the top back of the frame. It will be screwed to the wall above the tank, extending about 4" above and below the tank opening. There are 1x8's that form the sides of the frame. Attached to the front side is a 1x4 that will support the front finish panels.
All exposed surfaces will be skinned with 1/4" red oak veneer and trimmed with red oak molding to match the door panels. Door panels matching the lower section will be hinged to allow front accress to the tank.
The white board in the photo is actually vinyl, and it will rest on the eurobracing of the tank to stabilize the framework, (not where shown in the photo). There will be no weight on the eurobracing - the white vinyl 1x4 is basically just a lateral support and a door stop...
Right now the light rack rubs against the side (vertical) 1x8's, and it would be difficult to slide the lights forward and back with it binding...I will router a 1/4" deep by 2" wide groove in the side pieces to make room for the sliding lights.
Of course I will cover the entire framing with several coats of clear polyurethane...
Moving right along...
LL
Finish & trim progress:
I reached a stopping place in the water change system, (meaning it was time to run to Lowes for more fittings), so instead I decided to tackle the top cover again... after much thought and measurement, here is what I came up with:
This is the top view:
and the bottom view:
There is an eight foot long 1x8 that forms the top back of the frame. It will be screwed to the wall above the tank, extending about 4" above and below the tank opening. There are 1x8's that form the sides of the frame. Attached to the front side is a 1x4 that will support the front finish panels.
All exposed surfaces will be skinned with 1/4" red oak veneer and trimmed with red oak molding to match the door panels. Door panels matching the lower section will be hinged to allow front accress to the tank.
The white board in the photo is actually vinyl, and it will rest on the eurobracing of the tank to stabilize the framework, (not where shown in the photo). There will be no weight on the eurobracing - the white vinyl 1x4 is basically just a lateral support and a door stop...
Right now the light rack rubs against the side (vertical) 1x8's, and it would be difficult to slide the lights forward and back with it binding...I will router a 1/4" deep by 2" wide groove in the side pieces to make room for the sliding lights.
Of course I will cover the entire framing with several coats of clear polyurethane...
Moving right along...
LL
Thanks
Thanks
Thanks for stopping by, Greg.
LL
Thanks
Thanks for stopping by, Greg.
LL
Threaded rods
Threaded rods
I received an inquiry about where to purchase the threaded rods I used for the light rack/rail assembly.
They are available at Home Depot in the hardware section - back with the aluminum and steel stock. They are 5/16" threaded rods, available pre-cut in two-foot lengths.
They screw right into the rollers. I put a 5/16" nut in the roller as a precaution and for extra strength...
LL
Threaded rods
I received an inquiry about where to purchase the threaded rods I used for the light rack/rail assembly.
They are available at Home Depot in the hardware section - back with the aluminum and steel stock. They are 5/16" threaded rods, available pre-cut in two-foot lengths.
They screw right into the rollers. I put a 5/16" nut in the roller as a precaution and for extra strength...
LL
Iphone
Iphone
That is pretty remarkble.
I am old enough to remember vacuum tubes and actually still know the International Morse code!
I had the Iphone demonstrated for me at the last COMAS meeting. Folks follow along on Reef Central from their phones...who woulda thunk it? :eek1:
LL
Iphone
That is pretty remarkble.
I am old enough to remember vacuum tubes and actually still know the International Morse code!
I had the Iphone demonstrated for me at the last COMAS meeting. Folks follow along on Reef Central from their phones...who woulda thunk it? :eek1:
LL
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