Looking to get a DSLR.. Advice?
- Thread starter Sagz70
- Start date
The 50 1.8 is awesome for the price, 1.4 is probably like 10x better. 1.2 is on my bucket list lol
rovster
New member
Yes sir you are, LOL! 2 L lenses on my wish list, the 24-70 and the 70-200. You probably have both:celeb1:
rovster
New member
Want to have some real fun with extreme close ups, reverse mount a 50mm over the 100mm
Ok, how? I happen to have both of those, LOL!
Macro Couplers is what BH&H calls them. Basically nothing more than a threaded ring to screw the two lenses face to face with the filter threads. They are also cheap 
Sagz70
Registered Reefer
Bringing back an old thread for some more advice..
I got the t3i with 18-55 and 55-250, anyone know what settings is good for tank shots?
I haven't really had much time to mess with the camera until recently, looking for the best settings or maybe a video or website anyone knows of would help out.
Thanks
I got the t3i with 18-55 and 55-250, anyone know what settings is good for tank shots?
I haven't really had much time to mess with the camera until recently, looking for the best settings or maybe a video or website anyone knows of would help out.
Thanks
rovster
New member
You need to understand the how the settings affect the exposure. To dumb it down, the main settings are:
ISO: Sensitivity of the sensor. You want this number as low as possible. The higher the number, the grainier the image.
Aperture or F-stop: This is how open the lense is. The lower the number, the more open the lens. How it affects your pic is the lower the number, the smaller the depth of field, the larger the number the larger the depth of field. Depth of field refers to how much of the picture is in focus.
Shutter speed: How quickly the shutter opens and closes. The longer its open, the more light reaches the sensor. The shorter the less. The thing is, if your shutter speed is too slow, and you're taking pics of a moving object, you will get motion blur.
The key is balancing the above settings to give you the exposure you're after.
Another consideration is that the more magnification, and the closer you are to the subject, you are naturally working with a decreased depth of field.
I'll let others make specific recommendations, but for coral shots in general:
ISO: For our purposes anything lower than 800 is good, with certain cameras you can go higher
Aperture/F-Stop: Usually 3-8ish depending on what you want. With super close up, you will want to bump that up considerably if you you want the whole picture in focus
Shutterspeed: If you are hand holding, anything over 80-100 is usually OK, if you are real jittery than faster, or if you're like Porko, you can go as low as 40-60, but I can't go that low witout getting blur.
Hope this helps.
Forgot to mention, if this is all a foreign language, just play with the settings until you get what you like. Use the meter in the viewfinder to know what your exposure is. In my experience, you want to slightly underexpose for best pics (slightly dark). I usually aim for -2/3 to -1 on the exposure scale.
ISO: Sensitivity of the sensor. You want this number as low as possible. The higher the number, the grainier the image.
Aperture or F-stop: This is how open the lense is. The lower the number, the more open the lens. How it affects your pic is the lower the number, the smaller the depth of field, the larger the number the larger the depth of field. Depth of field refers to how much of the picture is in focus.
Shutter speed: How quickly the shutter opens and closes. The longer its open, the more light reaches the sensor. The shorter the less. The thing is, if your shutter speed is too slow, and you're taking pics of a moving object, you will get motion blur.
The key is balancing the above settings to give you the exposure you're after.
Another consideration is that the more magnification, and the closer you are to the subject, you are naturally working with a decreased depth of field.
I'll let others make specific recommendations, but for coral shots in general:
ISO: For our purposes anything lower than 800 is good, with certain cameras you can go higher
Aperture/F-Stop: Usually 3-8ish depending on what you want. With super close up, you will want to bump that up considerably if you you want the whole picture in focus
Shutterspeed: If you are hand holding, anything over 80-100 is usually OK, if you are real jittery than faster, or if you're like Porko, you can go as low as 40-60, but I can't go that low witout getting blur.
Hope this helps.
Forgot to mention, if this is all a foreign language, just play with the settings until you get what you like. Use the meter in the viewfinder to know what your exposure is. In my experience, you want to slightly underexpose for best pics (slightly dark). I usually aim for -2/3 to -1 on the exposure scale.
Last edited:
You didn't dumb it down enough Rovi. LOL
Manual mode
Shutter 1/100
Aperture f/4.5 or whatever is the lowest
White balance on cloudy or whatever is the highest K rating (white balance will still have to be fixed in Lightroom, photoshop, etc)
Use manual focus points and watch the exposure bar. The camera meters for the whole picture, so adjustments to shutter should be made for darker or lighter. Once you understand that then move into aperture.
Manual mode
Shutter 1/100
Aperture f/4.5 or whatever is the lowest
White balance on cloudy or whatever is the highest K rating (white balance will still have to be fixed in Lightroom, photoshop, etc)
Use manual focus points and watch the exposure bar. The camera meters for the whole picture, so adjustments to shutter should be made for darker or lighter. Once you understand that then move into aperture.
rovster
New member
LOL. I have found that setting the WB to 10K gives pretty good pics. I suck at photochop because I'm color impaired.
Here are a few just out of the camera. They are actinic shots, but look pretty accurate to what my eyes see....
Non-Actinic....
All these are JPEG straight out of the camera, no photoCHOP.
rovster
New member
I always buy from the brown rack, actually, all the racks are the brown racks. But you have to admit, I get the nicest shades of brown in my tank.
Its funny how that mille always looks brown to me, haha! One day I'm gonna crash my tank on false assumptions:headwally:
Similar threads
