Marksreef 93G Rimless Cube Build

[MarksReef]

Ahhh.....Interesting.
I'd read about in a book, but IIRC, it was implied that it was difficult and somewhat dangerous to use.

Where could I get some LC if decided to go that route?
How much would I use?
Would a powerhead in the rock container being treated with LC be beneficial, or not needed?
Why add salt to the container and then test for PO4? Just by osmosis/diffusion if PO4 is going to leach out of the rocks, its most likely going to so in RODi more so than ASW made from RODi. Adding salt just seems like a waste of salt to me....

I'm not bashing, I'm curious and you know more about this than I do.

It is best to read or post in the chemistry forum or search R.C. (Lanthanum Chloride).
I have read a ton but not comfortable relaying what I read.

 

[maxxII]

I'm doing that now.

I just tested the PO4 levels of my acid washed rock, (mostly Marco, some BRS Tonga Shelf rock-no base) using a Hanna meter and it showed a reading of 0.5 after sitting in a new Brute container with RODi water for week.

I changed out the water and replaced it with fresh RODi.

The real question is this:

Is the Brute leaking/leaching PO4 or is the rock?

Seriously considering LC for this now....

 

[MarksReef]

I'm doing that now.

I just tested the PO4 levels of my acid washed rock, (mostly Marco, some BRS Tonga Shelf rock-no base) using a Hanna meter and it showed a reading of 0.5 after sitting in a new Brute container with RODi water for week.

I changed out the water and replaced it with fresh RODi.

The real question is this:

Is the Brute leaking/leaching PO4 or is the rock?

Seriously considering LC for this now....

I tested NSW in my NEW Brute can and got 0. Most likely the rock.

 

[MarksReef]

Finished wiring

Finished wiring

No matter how well I tried to be neat with the wiring, it always seem to be a mess but I know where everything is and goes so it is done.
Ammonia is about 6ppm and cycling as of yesterday. I used the live sand and was cycling prior to adding ammonia as I was getting a Diatom bloom.

 

[MarksReef]

Top off

Top off

I'm currently using a Tunze top off bit will need to change to something different.
I got it used so I'm sure I can sell it and buy something better suited to run from the closet, out of the brute can, down (to basement) 4 ft., across 12 FT., and up 6 FT. to the top of the tank or less to the sump if it won't back syphon like the Tunze will.

 

[MarksReef]

 

[sahin]

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Looks great!

Cant wait to see this being stocked with corals!

 

[MarksReef]

My Apex and Harley are set up.
If I get a text from my Apex, it will display on my Infotainment ctr. on my Harley.
Technology never stops.

 

[ga_gant]

I'm currently using a Tunze top off bit will need to change to something different.

I got it used so I'm sure I can sell it and buy something better suited to run from the closet, out of the brute can, down (to basement) 4 ft., across 12 FT., and up 6 FT. to the top of the tank or less to the sump if it won't back syphon like the Tunze will.

Try the Avast Marine ATO you can integrate it with your Apex and you can order it with a peristaltic pump which would easily cover the distance your looking at.

 

[cpllongjk]

Looking good Mark!

Take your time and make sure that rock doesn't leach much phosphates before you add frags. It will save you a lot of money and headache down the line.

 

[cpllongjk]

My Apex and Harley are set up.
If I get a text from my Apex, it will display on my Infotainment ctr. on my Harley.
Technology never stops.

Good looking Harley!

 

[MarksReef]

Try the Avast Marine ATO you can integrate it with your Apex and you can order it with a peristaltic pump which would easily cover the distance your looking at.

Thats what I think will do.

The litermeter was another choice but still uses suction cups and doesn't work with the Apex.

 

[bellis31]

Hey love the setup, I'm currently building an 80/20 LED light mount and I was wondering what parts you used to connect the uprights to the stand?? Do you know the part number?

 

[MarksReef]

Hey love the setup, I'm currently building an 80/20 LED light mount and I was wondering what parts you used to connect the uprights to the stand?? Do you know the part number?

Just missing the screw part #.
2 of Inside corner # 4136 (Google 80/20 4136
4 of Outside joining plate 80/20 45-4351 N
4 of Mounting it to stand 80/20 40-4334 N
Every hole needs a T nut 80/20 45-4351 N
T nut screws for each hole.
80/20 10 SERIES 1010 1" X 1" T-SLOTTED EXTRUSION x how high and how far across you need.

 

[bellis31]

Just missing the screw part #.
2 of Inside corner # 4136 (Google 80/20 4136
4 of Outside joining plate 80/20 45-4351 N
4 of Mounting it to stand 80/20 40-4334 N
Every hole needs a T nut 80/20 45-4351 N
T nut screws for each hole.
80/20 10 SERIES 1010 1" X 1" T-SLOTTED EXTRUSION x how high and how far across you need.

Right on thanks, that's exactly the part I though about using!

 

[Jackg962]

Love your tank, which model ATI did you use for the light? are your coral happy?

 

[MarksReef]

Love your tank, which model ATI did you use for the light? are your coral happy?

It is the 8X24 Dimmable ATI Sunpower. I just finished building and am cycling so no coral in there yet.

 

[MarksReef]

I'm currently using a Tunze top off bit will need to change to something different.
I got it used so I'm sure I can sell it and buy something better suited to run from the closet, out of the brute can, down (to basement) 4 ft., across 12 FT., and up 6 FT. to the top of the tank or less to the sump if it won't back syphon like the Tunze will.

I Ordered the Avast Marine top off so I can put all my reef equipment in the closet and run the lines under the floor. I really like the Tunze but it doesn't have the power to go up 3ft, down 4 ft, across 12 feet and it has to go up 5 ft to the top of the tank so it doesn't prevent a syphon. I will use Kalk in my top off from there.
When I put the rock and substrate in I used live sand. I didn't realize how much of a cycle it would start until I actually put pure ammonia in 2 weeks later and there was a small Diatom bloom already started at that point and then added enough pure ammonia to read 7 ppm.
Last week I was in a FULL Diatome bloom. Everything was brown and looking like crap (good sign) and ammonia was still 7-8 ppm. For the last 3 days the Diatoms started retreating and today they are almost gone %85 so I tested and ammonia is 0, Nitrite is 20 ppm and Nitrate is 50ppm. I'm on my way faster then I had hoped but in no hurry and will make sure it is completed before I start stocking. I'm looking forward to seeing some movement besides the substrate being blown around once in a while.
I'm ramping the lights back up. I'm really glad I went with this ATI and it's option to dim and ramp up to a chosen power.
Right now it is %60 for 4 hrs.
I also scored a davy Jones skimmer locker in the F.S. section for 1/3 the cost of new. It too should be here soon.
My ASM skimmer wouldn't fit in so I researched till my head was spinning and found a Skimz sk 181 skimmer I think I'm going to be happy with. I also extended the return line from the GFO-Carbon Reactor to the sock to catch any dust I missed when rinsing.
Ive been running GFO during the cycle and changing it every 5 days and it has made a acceptable dent in my PO4's. At this rate they should be acceptable by the time the coral frenzy starts.
The Tunze top off will be for sale in a couple of days if anyone is interested. I just have to hook the Avast up first.
Happy Reefing.
Marksreef

 

[origreefer]

Real nice! Your only mistake is getting new carpet. Shouldn't you wait till after your first spill to do that.

 

[sahin]

You will love the ATI unit for the colour and growth in your corals. Certainly a good choice. Nice to see you're all set sump wise.

Cant wait to see corals in tank.