Mars Aqua Chinese LED review (Ebay)

Sounds great from everyone! My sps coral has grown a bunch of new buds under these lights so they do work.

Another great thing about these fixtures is the heat is way low compared to metal halide and the enegy costs are way lower as well. My t5 compared to led is my led are costing me 10-15 dollars less a month to run and I wasn't seeing this much growth or recovery on them before this.
 
smedlin said:
I hooked up two 32" Euphoticas (Chinese LEDs) this weekend. Each are 216W.

I currently only have them at 20%, but the few corals I have are loving it.

One of my 13 year old crappy T-12 units went out about a month ago..took me awhile to build the canopy to put these in.. some of the corals were starting to really suffer.

Even at 20%, the corals are coming back....

l2_zpstvgfnki5.jpg


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Click to expand...


Can you share some info on those lights? Looks like a lit display panel on it for settings? Perhaps those lights have more control than the Mars?
 
Swope2bc said:
Can you share some info on those lights? Looks like a lit display panel on it for settings? Perhaps those lights have more control than the Mars?
Click to expand...

I think they were about the same programming as the Mars. It really has been over a month since I did the research.

Standard 2 channels, blue and everything else.

Unlimited amount of "timers", so you can make them come on, dimmer, brighter, whatever you desire.

They sell 2 version of each light, one programmable, one not. I got the ones that are.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/32-LED-Aqua...r-Saltwater-Aquarium-Fish-Tank-/191550483083?

I don't remember why i went with them instead of Mars. I think these where cheaper. I did a google, and TONS of people had been asking about them, with favorable response.

Nice customer service as well. The right hand light is actually defective. The back 2 rows of blue's stopped working right after I turned it on. I emailed the company, got a response right away, they asked for a picture of it, which I supplied.. they apologized immensely, and I had a tracking order the next morning for a new one.. at zero cost to myself.

Anyways, do a google on them...

.
 
smedlin said:
I think they were about the same programming as the Mars. It really has been over a month since I did the research.

.
Click to expand...

Actually, now that I think about it, the Mars isn't programmable, is it?

This one is, tis why I got it instead of the Mars.


Each came with a remote, but 1 remote can control both.

Outside of "on/off and menu" the remote also has "preset" buttons; Sunny, Cloudy,Moon, Custom, and Manual.

So, if you want to switch it to "moonlight", just hit the "moon" button. Want the moonlight to be have MORE blue? Just increase it, and it will remember that value for next time.

Want "moon" to come on at 7 in the morning? Then increase moon some at 7:30.. then turn the other LED's on at 8, but at a low setting.. then increase it a bit through the day.. then slowly ramp back down?

Just set the timers for those values.

(note, like the Mars, you can control the blue lights, and the "others" are all clumped together. No control over reds and whites separately)

I think that was why I went with them instead of Mars.

No.. it doesn't have the "storm" settings.. or auto moon phase that the premium units do. But I paid a total of $800 (and change) for these two. On a six foot long tank, that type of coverage with the premium lights would have been well over 2k.

Are the premium's better? Sure they are.

But I personally could not justify the cost. Some can.. some can't. It wasn't a money issue.. it was a "bang for your buck" issue.

.
 
That's awesome thanks for the added information I will definitely be looking into this one! Bang for your buck is definitely the way to go and I like the idea of being able to make the programming
 
smedlin said:
I think they were about the same programming as the Mars. It really has been over a month since I did the research.

Standard 2 channels, blue and everything else.

Unlimited amount of "timers", so you can make them come on, dimmer, brighter, whatever you desire.

They sell 2 version of each light, one programmable, one not. I got the ones that are.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/32-LED-Aqua...r-Saltwater-Aquarium-Fish-Tank-/191550483083?

I don't remember why i went with them instead of Mars. I think these where cheaper. I did a google, and TONS of people had been asking about them, with favorable response.

Nice customer service as well. The right hand light is actually defective. The back 2 rows of blue's stopped working right after I turned it on. I emailed the company, got a response right away, they asked for a picture of it, which I supplied.. they apologized immensely, and I had a tracking order the next morning for a new one.. at zero cost to myself.

Anyways, do a google on them...

.
Click to expand...

Those are very nice lights! I love the controllers but that is $420 for one 216W lamp and Mars was $169 for one 300W and you still can control the blue and the whites separate... Am I missing something? I wish I can make the light to come up by themselves dimmed and progressively to reach the set intensity... without human input.
 
There are modification you can make with the Mars Aqua it just takes time and effort. those lights listed are over twice the price because they have a built in controller.

Our Mars Aqua are the same LEDs just without that controller to set things. My LEDs are set up on separate timers to come on at different times. Blues first and whites an hour later.

I was looking for most cost effective with the lights I got.

And our claimed 300w isn't actually 300w, I had emailed the company to find out if they (like all others) under drive the LEDs for better performance and they responded with yes. Our LEDs run about 216w as well at full power (which no one is even attempting to run at in the thread so far)

I'm happy with my Mars Aqua and can't complain about them being under driven.
 
paullondon said:
Those are very nice lights! I love the controllers but that is $420 for one 216W lamp and Mars was $169 for one 300W and you still can control the blue and the whites separate... Am I missing something? I wish I can make the light to come up by themselves dimmed and progressively to reach the set intensity... without human input.
Click to expand...

Bagabaga said:
There are modification you can make with the Mars Aqua it just takes time and effort. those lights listed are over twice the price because they have a built in controller.
Click to expand...


Yep, Bagabaga is exactly correct. The company sells the same unit, but without the controller. and it's MUCH less. Soo. the cost is with that.

But..I knew that. I wanted something I could set to "slowly" wake up in the morning, get a bit brighter as the day goes on, and then slowly ramp back down..without me manually having to do it.

To me, that was worth the value.
 
Would a single 165w be enough for a Biocube 29? I was going to retrofit the hood but some of those plug and play kits are $300+ thinking hanging this unit above may be a way better option.

Currently have softies, LPS, and would like some monty caps and maybe birdsnest SPS. Nothing crazy.
 
Yes you could get away with 165w unit over a 29 cube. You may end up with some shadowing in the back but everything we want to see is in the front right?
 
Bagabaga said:
There are modification you can make with the Mars Aqua it just takes time and effort. those lights listed are over twice the price because they have a built in controller.

Our Mars Aqua are the same LEDs just without that controller to set things. My LEDs are set up on separate timers to come on at different times. Blues first and whites an hour later.

I was looking for most cost effective with the lights I got.

And our claimed 300w isn't actually 300w, I had emailed the company to find out if they (like all others) under drive the LEDs for better performance and they responded with yes. Our LEDs run about 216w as well at full power (which no one is even attempting to run at in the thread so far)

I'm happy with my Mars Aqua and can't complain about them being under driven.
Click to expand...


Yeah the price hike is a little steep for me too, I would love to figure out how to do the mods on the 300w so I can run it from my apex though. I read earlier on in the thread that it tends to look messy, but I'm sure a guy could clean it up with some effort.. How many outlets would it take to get the fading affect though...
 
I was thinking about using the Mars Aqua light to mod my RSM hood. Maybe take it apart to put the lights, dimmer, heatsink and drivers into the existing hood using the hood's fans and timer. Any idea what's the length, width and height of the heat sink? Also, are the Leds on a 20mm star board? any info would be useful. Thanks.
 
Bagabaga said:
There are modification you can make with the Mars Aqua it just takes time and effort. those lights listed are over twice the price because they have a built in controller.

Our Mars Aqua are the same LEDs just without that controller to set things. My LEDs are set up on separate timers to come on at different times. Blues first and whites an hour later.

I was looking for most cost effective with the lights I got.

And our claimed 300w isn't actually 300w, I had emailed the company to find out if they (like all others) under drive the LEDs for better performance and they responded with yes. Our LEDs run about 216w as well at full power (which no one is even attempting to run at in the thread so far)

I'm happy with my Mars Aqua and can't complain about them being under driven.
Click to expand...

Yes, pretty much all LEDs fixtures are under driven so a 3W LED will run at 2.2W, it makes sense and greatly extends the diode's life without having a noticeable impact on PAR values.
I have to admit that I would still love that controller that starts out slow and get brighter and ramps down at the end of the day... I heard some anemones die because of light shock, is that true or just one of those odd things that happens once in a blue moon?
 
CaptreeOne said:
I was thinking about using the Mars Aqua light to mod my RSM hood. Maybe take it apart to put the lights, dimmer, heatsink and drivers into the existing hood using the hood's fans and timer. Any idea what's the length, width and height of the heat sink? Also, are the Leds on a 20mm star board? any info would be useful. Thanks.
Click to expand...

Which one? Which Mars, they have tons of models...? http://stores.ebay.com/marshydrousastore/
 
paullondon said:
You are giving people wrong information.
1. Home electronics require CSA or equivalent to be sold, but there are no laws stating that you are not allowed to custom build your own electronics. You need to be licensed (or the homeowner) to wire your light fixtures in the ceiling, change a receptacle, change the wiring in the walls, etc. That is, anything permanent, and a permit is needed as well. Now if there is a fire, i highly doubt it will be from an aquarium light, but diy's can cover themselves from claims that would say otherwise... how? simply put. GROUND YOUR FIXTURES AND USE A GFCI. oh organize your power cables so only one enters the wall socket, and all others are not on the floor.
2. I was able to find the parts of MarsAqua in UL database listing
3. That company has no recalls/incidents listed since was founded in 2007
And in the end, no UL certification legally guarantees your safety... it's stipulated on their agreement... on the website. Also they are saying UV light causes no retinal damage therefore is not regulated. Really?!?
Click to expand...

http://www.esasafe.com/assets/files/esasafe/pdf/Sample_Bulletins/2-7-29.pdf

It's part of the electrical code it, if it's not in the exeption (low voltage, low VA), it must be approuved. Leds can get in the 160 watts and more which can get hot enought to melt plastics if it's not dissipated correctly. GFCI won't help for arcing fault or a fire unless it short put.
 
Just to clarify that these units have no controller so you can dim the LEDs with a controller like an Apex. You CAN MANUALLY DIM the blue and DIM the white separately with the knob on top.

Since there is an AC plug for white and another AC plug for blues you can have you blues come on first then whites later on your Apex, timer, etc. You just can not dim them automatically. Just manually.
 
Thanks for that, I was thinking some didn't quite understand. The question I'm still asking is if they can be modified to have independent dimming and programming. If anyone has a link to a how too that would be cool.
 
Icefire said:
http://www.esasafe.com/assets/files/esasafe/pdf/Sample_Bulletins/2-7-29.pdf

It's part of the electrical code it, if it's not in the exeption (low voltage, low VA), it must be approuved. Leds can get in the 160 watts and more which can get hot enought to melt plastics if it's not dissipated correctly. GFCI won't help for arcing fault or a fire unless it short put.
Click to expand...

That part of the code hereby does not concern you as a buyer, it is strictly for sellers who are distributing electrical products in Canada.
This LED lights are legally considered portable luminaries, a plug-in lamp. In order for an insurance company to deny coverage they will HAVE TO PROVE you voluntarily connected the lights to the home circuit in a wrongfully and criminal manner with the intent of causing fire or cause injury.
As a side note there are no aquarium fixtures CSA/UL approved. In order for that to happen they would carry the specification CSA for damp/wet and rated and listed as such in the directory. If a MH has CSA is NOT for use with your aquarium or near water. The only wet CSA/UL I've seen so fr was for the lights on boats. And your T5 fixture for example, it is not CSA/UL approved for marine aquarium use.
The information I posted previously is from an electrician running a company for 35 years...
 
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