oopsydaisybaby
New member
Thanks for the reply. Maybe they will let me upgrade.
Maxspect LED owners!!!
- Thread starter gambitcobra
- Start date
gambitcobra
New member
I have pictures loaded in my gallery, I will take pics of the maxspects on in a day or so. My tank is 30 inch wide and you can very easily get away with one or two units side to side. I have the lenses on one unit now and one without and you can see the difference big time. But i want to take pics with water in the tank to see the real difference
chercm
New member
some exciting thing happening for maxspect :
MAXSPECT will be offering even more color options for their LED aquarium lights, with colors ranging from Pink to Amber. The movement away from the Cool White and Royal Blue bandwagon has surely begun, and this is further evidence. Adding a verity of blue and warm peaks (in contrast to CW+RB) may not do much in terms of raw coral growth, but the visual improvement they provide can be the difference between a windex look and a TOTM look.
Below is a list of color options that are slated to be offered for Maxspect. Their spectral plots can be seen in the image above. [click image to enlarge]
* 30w Cool White SemiLED Multi Chip 1,860 lm @ 1,000mA
* 3w Cool White SemiLED Multi 150 lm @ 700mA
* 3w Royal Blue 445nm SemiLED
* 15w Royal Blue 445nm SemiLED @ 1,000mA
* 3w Green, Unknown Brand
* 3w Red, Unknown Brand
* 3w Violet, Unknown Brand
* 3w UV-A, Unknown Brand
* 3w Cyan, Unknown Brand
* 3w Amber, Unknown Brand
* 3w Pink, Unknown Brand
* 3w Cree XP-G Cool White (R5)
* 3w Nature White, Unknown Brand
Per MAXSPECT’s driver set up, all LEDs are driven at 700mA except for larger 30w and 15w multichips which are driven at 1000mA.
MAXSPECT has not released information on their colored LEDs. Based on the variety offered and early images we’ve seen, I’d venture a guess they are Huey Jann–an LED manufacturer from Taiwain.
MAXSPECT’s LEDs can be easily replaced, which is potentially both good and bad. It’s good as it allows custom color combinations and plenty of experimentation. It can be potentially bad because star mounted LEDs and quick disconnect wiring is not the most reliable or long lived solution; particularly in corrosive saltwater environments.
MAXSPECT will be offering even more color options for their LED aquarium lights, with colors ranging from Pink to Amber. The movement away from the Cool White and Royal Blue bandwagon has surely begun, and this is further evidence. Adding a verity of blue and warm peaks (in contrast to CW+RB) may not do much in terms of raw coral growth, but the visual improvement they provide can be the difference between a windex look and a TOTM look.
Below is a list of color options that are slated to be offered for Maxspect. Their spectral plots can be seen in the image above. [click image to enlarge]
* 30w Cool White SemiLED Multi Chip 1,860 lm @ 1,000mA
* 3w Cool White SemiLED Multi 150 lm @ 700mA
* 3w Royal Blue 445nm SemiLED
* 15w Royal Blue 445nm SemiLED @ 1,000mA
* 3w Green, Unknown Brand
* 3w Red, Unknown Brand
* 3w Violet, Unknown Brand
* 3w UV-A, Unknown Brand
* 3w Cyan, Unknown Brand
* 3w Amber, Unknown Brand
* 3w Pink, Unknown Brand
* 3w Cree XP-G Cool White (R5)
* 3w Nature White, Unknown Brand
Per MAXSPECT’s driver set up, all LEDs are driven at 700mA except for larger 30w and 15w multichips which are driven at 1000mA.
MAXSPECT has not released information on their colored LEDs. Based on the variety offered and early images we’ve seen, I’d venture a guess they are Huey Jann–an LED manufacturer from Taiwain.
MAXSPECT’s LEDs can be easily replaced, which is potentially both good and bad. It’s good as it allows custom color combinations and plenty of experimentation. It can be potentially bad because star mounted LEDs and quick disconnect wiring is not the most reliable or long lived solution; particularly in corrosive saltwater environments.
Rosscopeco
New member
It was only a matter of time. Many have done these mods already.
canesfan44
New member
I'm still waiting for a bluer 30watt
Acrotrdco
New member
My new tank using G2-160w:
The tank build thread:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1929512
The tank build thread:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1929512
My G2-160's arrived today finally. No obvious changes that I can see so far from previous photos that you guys have shown, other than the circuit boards inside my LED units have red solder mask instead of green. Not sure if there was a revision to the boards or just a color difference.
Not many folks showing photos of the rails, so I was a bit concerned about how they work, but I'm more than comfortable after actually holding them. The lamp units dovetail securely into the rails, no worries about anything falling apart.
I also got the lens sets too, but won't be installing them for a while to keep from bleaching anything. I do like how the individual lenses are removable, so I'll probably leave the lenses off of the 30watt LED's when I do install them. Real simple install to put the lens kit on, just remove the existing plexi light shield and install the new lens kit shield.
I can't wait until my daughter goes in for her nap so I can install these. It's going to take longer to remove the old PC's and program the LED's than the physical install is going to take.
From the earlier question, when power resets the default is still that the LED's all turn on.
Not many folks showing photos of the rails, so I was a bit concerned about how they work, but I'm more than comfortable after actually holding them. The lamp units dovetail securely into the rails, no worries about anything falling apart.
I also got the lens sets too, but won't be installing them for a while to keep from bleaching anything. I do like how the individual lenses are removable, so I'll probably leave the lenses off of the 30watt LED's when I do install them. Real simple install to put the lens kit on, just remove the existing plexi light shield and install the new lens kit shield.
I can't wait until my daughter goes in for her nap so I can install these. It's going to take longer to remove the old PC's and program the LED's than the physical install is going to take.
From the earlier question, when power resets the default is still that the LED's all turn on.
ErikS
New member
Thanks, much appreciate the information.
I'm probably not going to run the 30w at all for at least a month, more likely 2 months.
I may also consider swapping the 30's out for 15's, but I'd have to look more into the system first to see if that kind of change is compatible with the drivers or not.
-Hans
Ok, I'm impressed. Only took me about 45 minutes to disassemble the old PC retrofit setup, install the LED's, re-program my RKL (was using it as a light timer, now just permanent-on for those channels), and to program the LED's. I put my few precious frag's on the sand, they were previously only 2" deep under the PC's on some milk-crate. I think I actually may have bleached them running that shallow.
Compared to the old PC retrofit, they take up a tiny fraction of the space. And holy-cow do I get shimmer with even the slightest surface turbulence, it was practically giving me a headache until I re-adjusted the powerheads.
So, yeah, I'm very happy so far.
-Hans
Compared to the old PC retrofit, they take up a tiny fraction of the space. And holy-cow do I get shimmer with even the slightest surface turbulence, it was practically giving me a headache until I re-adjusted the powerheads.
So, yeah, I'm very happy so far.
-Hans
chercm
New member
thanks i have changed but even that with running at 3hours , i do not see much growth ....
any reefers running zeovit ?
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