Maxspect Mazarra.

Alright guys, so I finally ended up calling the post office, and they were there. So after getting home and I got em up and running.

Its been a busy day because my RKL unit arrived today also, gf does not understand what all the fuss is about. I have snapped a couple pics for your enjoyment though my camera died on me so I couldn't take great pics. I'll snap some more real soon.

So far the light has made a great difference in the tank, my corals are all looking good, and and have a rbta that is starting to come into its own. I haven't played much with the lights yet, so will give you feedback later on its capabilities and coral growth..
 

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Finally some pictures :-) could you write something about your tank size? I'm thinking if 2 of these will be enough to light my 65x65x65cm cube (about 25 inches)
 
So what comes with the mounting kit? How long of a tank would one kit fit on?

If you got just one module then I doubt the mounting kit will be longer then 24" or even shorter. Just from what I've read. I'm looking at the 2 module 60 watt for my 60 gal cube. 25x25x25
 
My tank is a 33 gallon fluval studio, its dimensions are 24" L 18" W 20" H. I ordered the 2 module kit, and the limited edition silver worked really well with the silver trim on my tank.

The mounting kit came with two L shaped rails, and the modules each come with a straight rail which has a smaller rail inside which can slide out.

I chose to use both L shaped rails and take the smaller inner rail to join both L pieces. I'm sure with a two module kit if you wanted to use both straight rails it came with then you can make it quite long, i would say up to 30-40''. Theres loads of distance to play with in the rails, you will have no problem mounting.

The only thing I could say is that because my tank is not rimless, the clamp which attaches is not 'fully' on, its kind of resting on the parapet of the tank. But its solid, gave it a few shakes.

I currently removed the fans you see in the pictures, and it looks much more sleek. Also running it in my own photoperiod and it is slowly lighting up the tank as we speak. I might also change the optics to 70 degree lenses if I'm going to go mostly sps dominated.
 
Just got mine today and I have mixed feelings. I'll show some pics before I get started as they will explain quite a bit I think. Default optics on these LED modules is 100 degrees. There are 70 and 40 degree optics included in the package.

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Now, on to cons of the setup (this is just my opinion so please don't get too flabbergasted).

Well, now that you've seen a bit of the setup. I'll give you a few details of how and why I've got it setup the way I've got it setup. So, I ordered a three module unit, but only have 2 modules mounted because one of the modules was missing one of the inner frame connectors so I couldn't use one of the frames (easily amended w/ a call or e-mail to the shipper... I hope). So, that answers that question. I have them roughly 11" over the water. This is on a 48" x 24" x 16" tank, but the last 8" of length nearest the wall has the overflow and my Tunze pumps in the corner. So it is shaded so I'm not trying to light those parts so I was thinking 3 modules would be perfect.

Although I don't have the third module on, I can tell that three modules won't cut it aesthetically for me. The light output cannot compare to the uniformity and beauty of my MH fixture (maybe it would match or even beat on par values, but to my eye, it just doesn't look right, looks dim and generally feels like light coverage of the tank has dropped 50-60%). It is too spotlighty for me. Colors are also quite different and I'm just not happy w/ it no matter how much I adjust each channel (A,B,C,D all correspond to different LED spectrums).

Another thing, the line management is absolutely horrible, I like a clean looking setup and I just can't stand the lines that resist good organization. The little line brackets that they include with the kit are loose and wobbly. The actual mount for the control is loose as well. There is no way to actually securely mount the wireless/wired controller, it just hangs on the plastic screw loosely. The clean look I am striving for on my tank went out the door once I started trying to hook everything up... Some people may get it looking a little more organized, but doubtful it will look that much better (this may not be as big of an issue if they begin using black aluminum framing so that the wires don't stand out as much).

Pros:

1. Different spectrum LEDs completely adjustable.

2. Frame mount is very adjustable if you order enough frame mount kits.

3. The LED modules are very adjustable in terms of positioning and you can focus light on a specific spot (this is somewhat of a minus for me as I hate the spotlighting effect)

4. Wireless control (kind of, you still need to wire in the wireless controller to power it) of up to 16 modules.

5. Cool dawn/dusk effects and you can program your own light schedule

6. Modular so you can add on more and more units to suit your needs (up to 16 w/ one controller)

This is a shot of my tank w/ MH and T5's, I just don't think that I can ever get that w/ a LED setup that uses optics.

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Well, overall, I'm actually a bit disappointed and most likely will be returning them and will continue to use my inefficient MHs. :( Oh well, it seemed so promising, but guess I'll continue watching.

But hey, maybe they will grow on me in the next couple of days.

Cheers,
John
 
Rufio,
sory to hear about the initial observations. How high above the tank do u have them mounted? Looks like your starting 2-4 inches above the rim of the tank. Bringing the fixture down would decrease spotting. Perhaps the 3 rd light will help out as well.........
 
seems you might have been better suited with 4x modules, vs 3 modules. thanks for posting the pics up and the review.

good luck, either direction you take it.
c
 
Any idea how many I would need for the Solana 34g? 20x20x20. I am new to sw and want to do a soft coral and fish tank with LEDs.
 
Do they come with fans as shown below?

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Yes, they do. They come installed, but you can remove them if you would like. They are automatically adjusted by a temperature sensor.

The picture you posted looks nice! :) I do like the all black look and like I said before, maybe if everything were black and with a little extra effort, you could get those powerlines looking organized.

Cheers,
John
 
Rufio,
sory to hear about the initial observations. How high above the tank do u have them mounted? Looks like your starting 2-4 inches above the rim of the tank. Bringing the fixture down would decrease spotting. Perhaps the 3 rd light will help out as well.........

Well, the lower edge of the optics are about 11" from the water surface. If I bring them down further, I feel I will lose the coverage. With just one light dead center at 11" off of water, I just don't get good coverage at the edge of my tank... wouldn't coverage get worse if I dropped the light further down closer to the surface of the water?

They have 100 degree optics installed as a factory default.

Cheers,
John
 
Hey Guys,

Nice to hear of your reviews. By the looks of your pics John, my guess is they have the 70degree optics installed (as we also found here in Australia) Take the optics out of the packaging and compare them to the pics in the operators manual. The 100degree lenses are thin compared to the 70degree.

Personally, I found using the Preset simulation to be my preferred option. The whites take out the windex look, yet preserve the colour intensity benefits.

You definitely need the 3rd Module, and even consider a forth? You may want to try spacing them closer together to make your comparison.

Keep the reviews coming!!

Kind regards,
George
 
Hey Guys,

Nice to hear of your reviews. By the looks of your pics John, my guess is they have the 70degree optics installed (as we also found here in Australia) Take the optics out of the packaging and compare them to the pics in the operators manual. The 100degree lenses are thin compared to the 70degree.

Personally, I found using the Preset simulation to be my preferred option. The whites take out the windex look, yet preserve the colour intensity benefits.

You definitely need the 3rd Module, and even consider a forth? You may want to try spacing them closer together to make your comparison.

Keep the reviews coming!!

Kind regards,
George

Thanks George... actually Brian at Finsreef alerted me to this issue and I quickly switched out the 70 degree optics to 100 degree optics. In the shipment I got, the manual states that the 100 degree optics are the factory default, but they are not, so anybody getting first round shipments should check and try to figure out what type of optics they have. An easy way for me to tell this is that the outer edge of the 100 degree optic has a raised rim that you can gently feel w/ your fingernail and the 70 degree and 40 degree optic do not have this ridge (you can do this easily without disassembling the module).

So, I'll fire it up and take pictures later w/ the new optics in place. :)

But for now, here's a picture of the unit w/ the face plate off. Ohhh, so sexy... Hahaha

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Looking at the setup, it would really be pretty easy to switch out and upgrade to newer LED chipsets in the future.

Cheers,
John
 
Ahhhh, what a difference 100 degree optics makes!!!! So much better spread!

Do you think they will ever come out w/ 120 degree optics for the Maxspect Mazarra? I mean, that may seem silly now (although Orphek does make a 120 degree optic lense for some of their units), it won't seem so silly in the future given the increasing power and efficiency of these LEDs so you won't sacrifice as much penetration by going for more spread...

Food for thought I guess. :)

I will have pictures posted tomorrow w/ the new optics... they are about 50-75% better now! After the third unit is up and running, we may just have to actually graduate my old school MH and T5 fixture.... we'll see.

Cheers,
John
 
Thanks for the update. Do you still get a shimmer effect with these optics?
The electronic setup looks really clean and modular.
 
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