Me vs Zoa Pox, Here's my saga

Any dips should be done outside of the display with a period of QT. Otherwise you are just dipping and reintroducing the coral to the same problem.

I've outlined my procedure earlier in the thread. Either 1 or 2 will work. I've done both with success.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15244877#post15244877 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by impur
Any dips should be done outside of the display with a period of QT. Otherwise you are just dipping and reintroducing the coral to the same problem.

I've outlined my procedure earlier in the thread. Either 1 or 2 will work. I've done both with success.

how many times have you done this? im aware about outside the display, i have my qt set up with the zoas in it already. what i was asking is in qt tank treament, not in display tank treatment.. if that makes any sense. Im leaning towards the dips/qt treaments, i just dont know if i want to do the ro one that you outlined. any perticular reason you do ro for the first dip?
 
I wouldn't treat the QT, cause now you have to up your dose in comparision to the stregnth of the dosage. Plus after treatment, you'd have to do a water change and if you have a larger QT like a 20gal or so you would have to do WC's, use carbon to soak up extra meds etc.... IF you treat in a bucket, your just using 2 gallons, ( 1 gal for each bucket ), and toss water once completed. I use TANK water btw. this gives me an excuse to do my water change, use the water I'm going to throw out anyways as my dip water with meds and my rinse water.

I'd just use the QT as a holding tank to let the frags heal in peace without being bothered / eaten by pods or other inverts, bothered by fish etc...
 
how many times have you done this?

Probably close to 70 or 80 times

any perticular reason you do ro for the first dip?

I've just had better results doing it that way. It eliminates the need for an additional dip in Revive or TMPCC on new incoming zoas.

If the zoas look stressed at all or the pox are pretty severe, just go with the SW dips to be safe.

Dip them for 20min in a cup or 2 of SW with 1 packet of furan2 in a ziplock, rinse and back into QT. Same thing 3 days in a row then rest for a week. Make sure they have good flow over them.

Don't treat the whole QT.

Hope that answers your question.
 
Sorry for the lack of update. To clarify I followed this treatment patteren: Day 1, dose entire tank with packet of Furan 2. Day 2 Repeat dose. Day 3 25% water change. Day 4 one packet Furan 2. Day 5 repeat dose. Day 6 25% water change and add carbon to tank.
Overall I've had what I consider to be good success. I know all of these palys would have died without intervention. My problem now is that the treated palys won't open. They look healthy on the outside, no signs of pox, good gray color, they just refuse to open up. Any suggestions on getting them to open? Also how should I re-introduce them to the DT? The QT has a small 50/50 PC bulb, the DT has a 150W MH and the test paly bleached when I put it back in.
 
All the way in the bottom, not directly under the full blast of the MH, put it more to the sides of the tank. GOOD FLOW.
 
Its going good buddy other than the couple of zoas. I saw your tank is banging along nicely. Unfortunately it was the hornet I got from you, it was doing sooooo well too, it already had two babies that were days from opening. I go to bed one night and it looks great, then it never opened again, turned red a week later, 2 weeks later it melted into a black mess despite my best efforts to treat it. I'm not 100% sure it was Zoa-pox, I never saw any nudis, but whatever happened it claimed 2 of my top 3 favorite zoas (Purple Hornets and Nuclear Sunshine). Oddly enough I have at least 20 other frags/rocks of zoas that are thriving like mad.
 
How the temp on your tank? In my experience fluctuating tank temp +- 2 degrees in a 24 hour period increases chance of zoa pox.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15297484#post15297484 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by birds"n"fish
How the temp on your tank? In my experience fluctuating tank temp +- 2 degrees in a 24 hour period increases chance of zoa pox.

damn...

Before i got a chiller i used to be 84 in the day and 78 at night. i've never had pox. I fluctuated like that for a long time.

:knock da wood:
 
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