Meanwell LDD driver: for those who want to dim to 0 using Arduino

O2Surplus said:
Rrasco's board should be OK trace wise for the LDD-1500L. Just use the conventional DIL24-6 machined pin chip holders that were commonly used earlier in this thread. The LDD-1500L has one pin IIRC that's in a different position than the LDD-H. The PWM input pin has been moved from pin #22 to pin #21 You can overcome this design change by simply soldering pin #21 to Pin #22 on each of your chip holders before soldering the chip holder to the PcB. Easy peasy!
:beer:
Click to expand...

I only just realized the 1000L and 1500L are the same footprint as the H series... Hmm. Guess I'll need to look at using your L & H model board since I already ordered some 700Ls... Dang.. Do you have a version of that with the pull down resistors? Also, what's the spacing on the screw terminal pins for that one?

Edit - I just made my order today. Gonna see if they can change it so I can run H boards. Otherwise, I'll need to do the L+H boards.
 
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_shorty_ said:
I only just realized the 1000L and 1500L are the same footprint as the H series... Hmm. Guess I'll need to look at using your L & H model board since I already ordered some 700Ls... Dang.. Do you have a version of that with the pull down resistors? Also, what's the spacing on the screw terminal pins for that one?

Edit - I just made my order today. Gonna see if they can change it so I can run H boards. Otherwise, I'll need to do the L+H boards.
Click to expand...


The L+H Pcb's used screw terminals with 3.8mm spacing, Just in case you have to go that route.
 
O2Surplus said:
LOL! I'm guessing we'll both be surprised. I don't need 100 more. Was that the Mega screw shield? Does the RTC work correctly?
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Yeah,...the one I got from rott. I'm not sure if the on board rtc is working correctly. I pulled the battery, and glued my rtc to the bottom side of the mega. I have some pic. of the build with the screw shield wired, and my old diy wired shield,....night and day.
 
007Bond said:
Hey O2,...what do you use for taking your thermal readings.
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For "Ball Park" measurements, I'm using a MasterCool non contact Infrared thermometer. It saves the maximum temperature detected to memory with every use, so it's easy to get an accurate readings.

Later on- I'm planning to actually bury a DS18B20 temp sensor directly under the thermal junction of the A6211 chip. That will happen after I redesign the 5up board to use all surface mount components and source a VGA cooler to use as a heat sink for the entire PCB. :facepalm: The redesigns..... they never end.
 
Thought you guys might like this - each of these boards has FOUR Luxeon Z/UV mounted to them. :eek2:

IMG_20140315_115158319.jpg
 
O2Surplus said:
Later on- I'm planning to actually bury a DS18B20 temp sensor directly under the thermal junction of the A6211 chip. That will happen after I redesign the 5up board to use all surface mount components and source a VGA cooler to use as a heat sink for the entire PCB. :facepalm: The redesigns..... they never end.
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Sounds interesting! The 5up will be getting a little toasty if their all cranking 2000ma :uhoh3: How are you planning on getting the 18b20 between the 6211 and the little copper heatsink?( bury a DS18B20 temp sensor directly under the thermal junction of the A6211 chip) It would be neat if you could monitor each 6211 separately,...I don't know what you would need to see 5 read outs all at once. I like the fact that they have thermal protection built in,...I didn't know that :thumbsup:
Oh and we looovvvve the redesigns O2 thanks!!
 
Little news on O2surplus A6211 1500mA drivers with LDD shape.

First a shot from what i had in mail box => really nice job congrats O2surplus

14031408530112463312063469.jpg



Just plug on of them direct on place of one LDD to test and connected one of my 50W custom led

14031506472112463312067474.jpg


An arduino is fitted on pwm point

14031506472312463312067475.jpg
 
007Bond said:
Sounds interesting! The 5up will be getting a little toasty if their all cranking 2000ma :uhoh3: How are you planning on getting the 18b20 between the 6211 and the little copper heatsink?( bury a DS18B20 temp sensor directly under the thermal junction of the A6211 chip) It would be neat if you could monitor each 6211 separately,...I don't know what you would need to see 5 read outs all at once. I like the fact that they have thermal protection built in,...I didn't know that :thumbsup:
Oh and we looovvvve the redesigns O2 thanks!!
Click to expand...


I'd have to redesign the pcb to use all SMD components and accept fitment of a really effective, commercially available, heat sink.... first. My thought was to then drill out a hole in the aluminum heat sink as close as possible to the thermal pad of the center most A6211 (that would be channel #3 on a 5 channel PcB) and then insert one of my DS18B20 sensors ( I've got the "waterproof" variety w/ the stainless steel housing). The idea being that channel 3 should be the hottest driver, since it's in the very middle of the group of drivers and the heat sink. I think that monitoring only the temp that position would be needed, since all the other drivers should close, if not slightly lower, in temperature. An Arduino or other led controller could then be programmed to monitor the temp and dial down the PWM signal to the drivers to protect the lighting system from overheating, caused by a failed fan or other condition.

"PcB OCD" strikes again! LOL
 
Idefixes said:
Little news on O2surplus A6211 1500mA drivers with LDD shape.

First a shot from what i had in mail box => really nice job congrats O2surplus

14031408530112463312063469.jpg



Just plug on of them direct on place of one LDD to test and connected one of my 50W custom led

14031506472112463312067474.jpg


An arduino is fitted on pwm point

14031506472312463312067475.jpg
Click to expand...


Wow- They made it to France!:dance: European addresses always confuse me a bit, so I'm glad they made it!

I tested each driver before they left my hands. They all pushed 1580ma, when I tested them against my big BridgeLux BXRA-C4500. Hopefully they'll give you many years of trouble free service! Thanks for posting the pictures and keep posting updates of your led build.

O2
 
O2Surplus said:
I'd have to redesign the pcb to use all SMD components and accept fitment of a really effective, commercially available, heat sink.... first. My thought was to then drill out a hole in the aluminum heat sink as close as possible to the thermal pad of the center most A6211 (that would be channel #3 on a 5 channel PcB) and then insert one of my DS18B20 sensors ( I've got the "waterproof" variety w/ the stainless steel housing). The idea being that channel 3 should be the hottest driver, since it's in the very middle of the group of drivers and the heat sink. I think that monitoring only the temp that position would be needed, since all the other drivers should close, if not slightly lower, in temperature. An Arduino or other led controller could then be programmed to monitor the temp and dial down the PWM signal to the drivers to protect the lighting system from overheating, caused by a failed fan or other condition.

"PcB OCD" strikes again! LOL
Click to expand...

Yeah the center heatsink #3 makes perfect sense O2.(that's why your the engineer)lol My Jarduino dose just what you described. I have a 18b20 attached at the connecting point of my multichip to the heatsink,...the heatsinks fan wil increase or decrease as needed all the way to a preset cutout/shutdown. The controller will perform the same functions at two locations, so I could set a second 18B20 up on the 5up board to cutout/shutdown again at a preset temp.:beer:
Remember awhile back I sent you one of my late at night ideas regarding 18B20's on each of my A6211"s using the extra 3 wires I had in the PWM cat5 wire,...well now I might get to put it to work
http://i.imgur.com/ytB0efs.png yay :bounce2: ---Rick
 
Future Electronics and Mouser. I only got the blue from Mouser since Future only had 11x of them and I needed 12x. They are half the price at Future ($1.30 each versus $2.71 each), though the bin at Mouser has double the flux, so the cost evens out
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Did you mount them yourself on the board or do they come like that?
 
jedimasterben said:
Oh lord no lol. I had StevesLEDs mount them for me. They did a stellar job!
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So after all said and done what did that set you back per 4 up board including all the shipping and such? thinking about it for myself to do some customized actinic LEDs...... those diodes ain't cheap though :(
 
O2Surplus said:
Yes- you've got it right. I screwed up the silkscreen label for the 3pin fan control connections, so a brief description is needed.
Here's a photo with the pin assignments-

8upLDD-H_with_Dual_SCWs_zps6f239ef2.jpg



wiring diagram- (only shows three fan connections, but the board follows suite with one more connection added)

PWMfancontrol_zps8d422904.png
Click to expand...

Sorry Aaron, but can you explain the SCW and fan control a little more on your latest 8up board? I think I understand that SCW brings down voltage to fan control @ 12 V? The 4pin plugs on bottom are used to plug each fan into, but only three plugs are used for each? (I have three wire fans). I don't understand all the pins though. And I don't understand your labels or verbiage about 2 or 4 wire fans, nor the dip switches on bottom right of the board. Also what are screw terminals 5 through 8 for?
 
zachts said:
So after all said and done what did that set you back per 4 up board including all the shipping and such? thinking about it for myself to do some customized actinic LEDs...... those diodes ain't cheap though :(
Click to expand...
The hardware cost totaled $275.55. Mounting, that will depend on how much you have to do and if Steve's wants to deal with them again LOL, apparently they were 'definitely challenging to work with', aka a real ***** ;)

Here is a live document of the total cost so far of my array: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0ApFtf5lEQFtOdGZMNjRyancxSWRpa0pWQ1MzN3ItRVE&output=html

I think I only have some Luxeon M to get (waiting for a different bin) and just need the Nanobox enclosure and wire sleeve to arrive, then I've got a buttload of soldering and wiring and sleeving and just plain WORK to do :)
 
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