Kaiserman1967
New member
Wooster.
Meanwell LDD driver: for those who want to dim to 0 using Arduino
- Thread starter pwreef
- Start date
iced98lx
New member
I've got some 5 up's kicking around. They're SUPER old though (no sinks for having the lights go out with no signal etc). How many do you need?
Kaiserman1967
New member
I'm actually getting another 6 up from O2, but thanks!
iced98lx
New member
No problem, be sure and post some the completed project!
Kaiserman1967
New member
I'll certainly do that, but it won't be "all that and a bag of chips". :lol: Just using a 6" X 4' U-channel piece of aluminum for my heatsink. I used a 3" for my last light and it barely got warm to the touch. Of course it was only 56 watts and this one is going to be between 210 and 340 watts (Haven't decided how many LED's I'm going to use). But this aluminum probably weighs more almost triple the 3" piece. It is going to go on a 120 gal (once I find one), but will take temporary residence over my 55 gal until then.
Right now I have 28 royal blue, 40 2800k warm white, 14 uv between 405-420 nm, and up to 10 green. Trying to decide if I need any 6500k bulbs to go with the 2800, or just get more 2800 bulbs.
Oh, they are all 5w bulbs running at 1A so about 3.1 watts per LED give or take a tenth or so.
Suggestions are welcome!
Kaiserman1967
New member
Forgot to mention this is primarily a reef tank with soft and stony coral as well as a couple clown, tang and cardinals. And an anemone that just split cuz I didn't clean when I was supposed to.
It was almost as big as a basketball!!Forgot to mention this is primarily a reef tank with soft and stony coral as well as a couple clown, tang and cardinals. And an anemone that just split cuz I didn't clean when I was supposed to.
but now you have two that will soon be as big as a basket ball
Kaiserman1967
New member
I can't seem to find an definitive answers on Google. Does anyone know if I can run 1A of current through each pair in a Cat 6 ethernet cable? It has 4/23 on it which I would think stood for 4 pair 23 AWG, but I don't know for sure. Going to be about 6-8 ft. run from the LEDs to the driver board, unless mounting on top of the light would be better? Just want to make sure the drivers and board stay dry.
J'canReefMan
New member
Hi Guys,
Here is my O2Surplus inspired LDD-H board. It is configured for a Bluefish Mini and includes a temp controlled fan using a PIC MCU. It was created using DIPTrace and is my first attempt so please be kind. Please critique and suggest improvements.
Here is my O2Surplus inspired LDD-H board. It is configured for a Bluefish Mini and includes a temp controlled fan using a PIC MCU. It was created using DIPTrace and is my first attempt so please be kind. Please critique and suggest improvements.
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theatrus
100-mile-commuter
- Add a thermal relief to the GND pin on the PIC.
- Is R1/D1 a Zener regulator? I'd avoid and use any ole LDO. MCP1700 or similar is great.
- C1 should go closer to the Vcc pin.
- What's the voltage input range? Do you need the SCW?
- Add an ICSP header for the PIC or else you're locked into one firmware.
- Is R1/D1 a Zener regulator? I'd avoid and use any ole LDO. MCP1700 or similar is great.
- C1 should go closer to the Vcc pin.
- What's the voltage input range? Do you need the SCW?
- Add an ICSP header for the PIC or else you're locked into one firmware.
J'canReefMan
New member
Got you on the thermal relief and C1. For my application the input is 24 volts but I used the SCW to provide a plug and play way getting a regulated 12V output from a wide range of input voltages (Thanks O2Surplus). The PIC will get a header and i plan to implement a way to dim/kill the lights if the temp passes a set threshold or the fan fails (open to advise here).
J'canReefMan
New member
Ok,
This is the finalized LDD-H based driver board I've been working on. I created it because i needed something to fit in the hood of a BioCube 8gal and still give several channels of control in addition to being scale-able for larger systems as well. I didn't re-invent the wheel but took inspiration from the contributions of others on this forum.
The board is just under 10cm x 10cm and is designed to interface with popular Bluefish Mini and the fan is controlled by an Attiny25 which gets its input from a LM35 temp sensor. The Bluefish and Attiny can be ommited however and everything controlled by a Arduino based controller. I use DipTrace which is not compatible with Eagle but I can share the Gerber files with anyone interested once I have verified functionality. Anyone here ever used DirtyPCB for their boards?
This is the finalized LDD-H based driver board I've been working on. I created it because i needed something to fit in the hood of a BioCube 8gal and still give several channels of control in addition to being scale-able for larger systems as well. I didn't re-invent the wheel but took inspiration from the contributions of others on this forum.
The board is just under 10cm x 10cm and is designed to interface with popular Bluefish Mini and the fan is controlled by an Attiny25 which gets its input from a LM35 temp sensor. The Bluefish and Attiny can be ommited however and everything controlled by a Arduino based controller. I use DipTrace which is not compatible with Eagle but I can share the Gerber files with anyone interested once I have verified functionality. Anyone here ever used DirtyPCB for their boards?
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theatrus
100-mile-commuter
Meanwell LDD driver: for those who want to dim to 0 using Arduino
DirtyPCB is not bad. It's exactly as advertised
I generally use OSHPark as its really consistent and mostly sources from US board houses.
Also, are you reading the tach signal from the fan? Might as well wire it up with a pull-up.
DirtyPCB is not bad. It's exactly as advertised
I generally use OSHPark as its really consistent and mostly sources from US board houses.
Also, are you reading the tach signal from the fan? Might as well wire it up with a pull-up.
J'canReefMan
New member
DirtyPCB is not bad. It's exactly as advertised
I generally use OSHPark as its really consistent and mostly sources from US board houses.
Also, are you reading the tach signal from the fan? Might as well wire it up with a pull-up.
Thanks theatrus, I will add the pull-up and check out OSHPark. I am not reading the tach on the Attiny25 but i broke it out for use in an Arduino or other MCU based controller. I'm sure I could add that functionality to the Attiny but my programming skills are very limited. Right now I'm patching together the code fun2:.
Kaiserman1967
New member
Please Help!
Well I got my light up and running, but my coral seem to be doing worse not better. If anyone could give me a suggestion, I would greatly appreciate it. I'm running (all good bin codes) 30-5W 2700k Cree, 14-5W 452nm RB, 10-5W Green, 5-5W 400nm UV, 5-5W 410nm UV and 4-5W 420nm UV. All are running at 1A and at 70% through my Coralux Storm.
FYI, I was running an older LED light (1W generic bulbs) I built along with a dual T5 12000K + 450nm HO bulb fixture.
Well I got my light up and running, but my coral seem to be doing worse not better. If anyone could give me a suggestion, I would greatly appreciate it. I'm running (all good bin codes) 30-5W 2700k Cree, 14-5W 452nm RB, 10-5W Green, 5-5W 400nm UV, 5-5W 410nm UV and 4-5W 420nm UV. All are running at 1A and at 70% through my Coralux Storm.
FYI, I was running an older LED light (1W generic bulbs) I built along with a dual T5 12000K + 450nm HO bulb fixture.
jedimasterben
LED world domination!
Did you try and match the PAR you were getting with the old light to start acclimating?
Oh, and ditch the greens.
Kaiserman1967
New member
Yeah, I started at 40% and raised 10% a week for the last 3 weeks and ditched the T5 fixture. However, my old light setup were set to like 11.5 hours and now my lights are set to actual sunrise/sunset, so there was a big change in the time the light was on.
One person (can't remember on this thread) to match gree and white 1:1!
jedimasterben
LED world domination!
10% a week is a LOT. I wouldn't have done but half of that weekly, if not every other week.
No, green is useless. Lime, on the other hand, is useful for a display setup, but not really a grow system.
What kind of ramp time do you have? What is your total photoperiod now?
