Meanwell LDD driver: for those who want to dim to 0 using Arduino
- Thread starter pwreef
- Start date
Why would you want to do that? A bit of research on your part to understand what volts, amps & watts are is needed. The LDD is rated at 56volts max. Volts do not burn the LED out the current does.
Simple example: (these are arbitrary numbers I am using)
You have 10 leds rated at 3 fvolt, max amp is 1000m/amp.
10x3= 30volts
You need 1 LDD1000 to run the above. You need to feed the LED a minimum of 36volts @ 1.2amps. As the voltage runs through each LED the LED uses 3volts(-3) but lets current does not change. So if you were to test the output at the end of the series you would get 3volts, 1000m/amp. Remember the current blows the Leds not the volts
Simple example: (these are arbitrary numbers I am using)
You have 10 leds rated at 3 fvolt, max amp is 1000m/amp.
10x3= 30volts
You need 1 LDD1000 to run the above. You need to feed the LED a minimum of 36volts @ 1.2amps. As the voltage runs through each LED the LED uses 3volts(-3) but lets current does not change. So if you were to test the output at the end of the series you would get 3volts, 1000m/amp. Remember the current blows the Leds not the volts
post a picture of you LEDs, or the actual specs please. Cree Blues and Whites likely are fine on the 1000mA drivers unless they are the really really old models.
Don't know! Cree 3W is sort of like saying Ford 2L. Doesn't really tell us much!
As Zachts says, model info would help. If they are sold as 3W they are (at a guess) possibly XPEs which are old models, but should survive 1000mA. But would better at 700mA (IMO). But without knowing more info on them :headwally:
Tim
jjoos99
New member
I finally got my system working with all the proper ldd drivers for the specific led strings. One more question though. The controller will do a moonlight option. I have a very old led string I built years ago that is just simply old 2 wire leds wired together with resistor that I use to run with a simple 12volt wall power supply. Can I use one of the 350 ldd drivers on the board? I was thinking I can just supply the board with the 12v power from the wall supply and have the jardurino control it? I tried it last night with a very small power supply (would light the string on its own) and the voltage would drop from 12v to .9 volts once I wired it in. Does the power supply have to be a certain power strength to work with the ldd and board? Also the boards have 2 power and 2 grounds on them, do they both have to be wired in for using just one ldd?
thanks
jeff
thanks
jeff
LOL- It's been a while since I've added anything to this thread. Here's my latest project. It's a 6 LDD-H/dual SCW Pcb designed for use with the new BlueFish "Mini" Wifi led controller. " Comes with more features and flexibility than you can shake a stick at".
Please please please tell me you still produce and sell these @o2surplus
Is there any chance I could get some????
Thanks in advance.
Ethernet CAT5/6 cable is used to interconnect the boards. Each board now includes a 5v buffer on each of the 6 PWM signal channels, making it possible to daisy chain dozens of boards off one BF Mini.
No need to "go ghetto" Lol. I make a 0 - 10v/5v PWM adapter that shares the same pinout and footprint of the BFini. The adapter snaps in to my board just like the BF Mini.
theatrus
100-mile-commuter
No need to "go ghetto" Lol. I make a 0 - 10v/5v PWM adapter that shares the same pinout and footprint of the BFini. The adapter snaps in to my board just like the BF Mini.
I'll need to look back at the board design to see how the PWM is handled
Krazie4Acans
New member
Sign me up. great work again O2
great work again O2I'm not done with those either..... next version gets a SinPadII MCPCB :eek2:, with either 6 channels and a BlueFish MINI, or 8 channels and a Wemos D1 MINI (ESP8266) Wifi controller.
Just gotta save up a few bucks for the SinkPads first........dems spendy!:worried:
