Meanwell LDD driver: for those who want to dim to 0 using Arduino

[Dave Thebrewguy]

Bump, I assume they can be soldered together, since they are connected(by checking with an Ohm meter) but can you/should you solder them together?

Do you mean the two Vin+ and two Vin-, etc? Yes, solder both of them. It doesn't really matter, but using both won't hurt and it has a few advantages.

Wow!! I've been away from this thread for a while and have missed alot! I may have to get some boards as soon as I figure out which version I need. If anyone has excess boards available for four LDD-Hs, let me know, I could use 2 or 3 of them. My next project will require 4 to 6 LDD-Ls so if anyone has an LDD-L board available let me know as well.

 

[one clownfish]

Do you mean the two Vin+ and two Vin-, etc? Yes, solder both of them. It doesn't really matter, but using both won't hurt and it has a few advantages.

Yes thats exactly what were talking about, Vin - & + and Vout - & +. There connected on the front of the LDD by a line. I'll connect them but what are the advantages of connecting them?

For those of you that are thinking of buying the assembled Arduino 2560, TFT shield and LCD to control your LDD's, don't buy it from Sainsmart. The pin outs are wrong for the shield so you can't use a RTC with it. Back to the drawing board.

 

[Chatouille]

For those of you that are thinking of buying the assembled Arduino 2560, TFT shield and LCD to control your LDD's, don't buy it from Sainsmart. The pin outs are wrong for the shield so you can't use a RTC with it. Back to the drawing board.

Are you talking about for Jarduino? There are a few ppl that have reported to have used the sainsmart TFT/Shield. (I believe bhazard451 for one) The biggest complaint I've seen was due to quality.... or rather the lack of.

 

[bhazard451]

Do you mean the two Vin+ and two Vin-, etc? Yes, solder both of them. It doesn't really matter, but using both won't hurt and it has a few advantages.

Yes thats exactly what were talking about, Vin - & + and Vout - & +. There connected on the front of the LDD by a line. I'll connect them but what are the advantages of connecting them?

For those of you that are thinking of buying the assembled Arduino 2560, TFT shield and LCD to control your LDD's, don't buy it from Sainsmart. The pin outs are wrong for the shield so you can't use a RTC with it. Back to the drawing board.

I have an RTC module hooked up to it just fine. Re-check your pins.

The quality of the lcd screen is crap though. Mine broke within a few days. I bought a different lcd and its been flawless.

 

[Photobug]

The most cost efficient use of these drivers, is to run a string of ~12 leds per driver. That would equal out to ~48 volts. You would then buy a 48v switching power supply with however many amps you need.

Can I vary this? I was plan on getting a 350W 48V driver. But do not want to run that many LEDs per string. I am planning on running 28 lights in total over my display tank of which only one string will have 10 LEDs on it, some much less. Should I get a power supply with less voltage to run smaller strings. Or is there a way to run smaller strings off a higher voltage supply?

Cree XT-E leds would best be used with LDD-1000H
"Exotics" and Violets would best be used with LDD-600H or 700H.
Cree XM-L would be a waste for 1000mah.
You want excess capacity.

Is this based on the amperage each type of bulb can handle? I am planning on running this off an DIY controller with PWM control. Would it not be just easier to use all LDD 100Hs (provided I can find some) to simplify the build relying PWM to keep the amperage in line with each LED strings capacity?

 

[007Bond]

For those of you that are thinking of buying the assembled Arduino 2560, TFT shield and LCD to control your LDD's, don't buy it from Sainsmart. The pin outs are wrong for the shield so you can't use a RTC with it. Back to the drawing board.

Interesting... How are you suppose to set time for different functions?

 

[megadeth72]

I'm using the sainsmart combo, I had to require two pins

 

[007Bond]

I have an RTC module hooked up to it just fine. Re-check your pins.

The quality of the lcd screen is crap though. Mine broke within a few days. I bought a different lcd and its been flawless.

What lcd did you end up using?

 

[Dave Thebrewguy]

Can I vary this? I was plan on getting a 350W 48V driver. But do not want to run that many LEDs per string. I am planning on running 28 lights in total over my display tank of which only one string will have 10 LEDs on it, some much less. Should I get a power supply with less voltage to run smaller strings. Or is there a way to run smaller strings off a higher voltage supply?




Is this based on the amperage each type of bulb can handle? I am planning on running this off an DIY controller with PWM control. Would it not be just easier to use all LDD 100Hs (provided I can find some) to simplify the build relying PWM to keep the amperage in line with each LED strings capacity?

You can use LDD-1000Hs for everything if you want but I wouldn't do it. The LDD defaults to full power if PWM signal is lost, if a connection comes loose you will be putting 1000mA into emitters that might not be able to handle it. The LDDs are made with a variety of output currents, the safest way to build is to match the driver to the LEDS.

 

[xenia outbreak]

Just a quick update for everyone that ordered boards and shipped them USPS. I received my boards that rrasco put up for everyone today in the mail! Hope everyone has a great holiday.


I have extra boards if anyone wants them.

I would love to get one of those boards from you. I tried PM'ing you but I guess I'm not allowed. If you would be willing to PM me sometime I'd be grateful. Happy Holidays!

 

[Chatouille]

I'm using the sainsmart combo, I had to require two pins

I *believe* this mod is to get the SD card working properly with the mega 2560, and has nothing to do with adding a RTC module.

 

[megadeth72]

yeah your right, my rtc worked fine

 

[bhazard451]

Ahh I know why mine worked. Try soldering to the bottom of the Arduino Mega instead of the shield.

 

[Photobug]

The LDDs are made with a variety of output currents, the safest way to build is to match the driver to the LEDS.

I know the LDD 1000 are a different size than the others and I have 2 PCBs lined up for the. Are all the smaller LDDs the same size or would i need to make a PCB for the 600 and one for the 700 size if I were to use them?

 

[Skinnysloth]

I know the LDD 1000 are a different size than the others and I have 2 PCBs lined up for the. Are all the smaller LDDs the same size or would i need to make a PCB for the 600 and one for the 700 size if I were to use them?

All the different LDD-H are the same size. The LDD-L are smaller.

 

[Photobug]

All the different LDD-H are the same size. The LDD-L are smaller.

Thanks I see it now. All amperage outputs are available in either H or L, so I can put an 1000H and a 700H and 600H on the same PCB.

Now I just need to figure out how to run shorter strings on a 48V power supply.

 

[Dave Thebrewguy]

There is no LDD_1000L, the LDD-Ls max out at 36V and the highest current is the LDD-700L.

You'll be fine with that power supply, the strings can be as short as 1 emitters in most cases. The LDD-H series can adjust from 2 to 45V output when run on a 48V power supply. I'm running 2 parralel strings of 2 emitters on a LDD-300H for my moonlights with no issues.

 

[Photobug]

Thanks Dave and all else to answer my quesitons, I think I have it figured out now. I have learned a lot in the last 24 hrs.

If you put this much effort in your tank lights, I wonder what your brew rig looks like?

 

[rrasco]

Do you mean the two Vin+ and two Vin-, etc? Yes, solder both of them. It doesn't really matter, but using both won't hurt and it has a few advantages.

Yes thats exactly what were talking about, Vin - & + and Vout - & +. There connected on the front of the LDD by a line. I'll connect them but what are the advantages of connecting them?

I'm not sure I follow what you guys are trying to figure out. The two vin+ pins are connected via a trace, as well as the other pins that have duplicates. I don't know why they have duplicate pins, but they do. Just solder all the pins on the LDD to the board and you're good to go.

 

[one clownfish]

Thanks, that's perfect.