Meanwell LDD driver: for those who want to dim to 0 using Arduino

TAAAAA DAAAAAA! The Gerber files for production at IteadStudios are attached.

5upLD-Hwithpulldownresistors_zpsd83fc46a.png

Thanks you are the best.
 
Is it me, or are there no connections to the Vin-?

It's you :)

They VIN- connections are done on the ground plane, or 'copper pour'. Look at the little dots around the edge of the board, that signifies everywhere there is not a trace, is filled in and serves as the ground for all those connections. Very common.
 
Ok I've got a noob question. I bought the LDD-1000 before I got my LEDs. When I got my LED they were 800 mA max so I thought I would just use a resistor to limit the current but I cannot get these things to light. They flash for a split second and then go out. I'm thinking that the LDD is going into overcurrent protection. I'm using the MeanWell 48v power supply and a 24 dc-dc step down to try to run 5 3W LED. Would I just be better off scrapping the 1000's at this point and getting the LDD-600 or 700?

Thanks
 
Resistor doesnt drop current on one of these. PWM input does. Also, i wouldnt advise a 24v step down on the output side of the LDD. They drive LEDs, and nothing else. Or are you dropping it to 24v before the LDD? That would be fine, but unneeded. They can adjust to 5 of the LEDs just fine off the 48v input unlike some other drivers. Onlinecomponents has lower amperage ones in stock for less than 10 bucks if you dont want to dim them.
 
I'm stepping down to 24v before the LDD since I was trying to limit the current with a resistor. Didn't want it to have to try to burn off 30v or so and cause me to have to look for a high wattage one.

Guess I'll order the 600's from onlinecomponents and sell the 1000's. I'll use chip sockets so i can change back later if I upgrade LDD's.
 
These dont burn off 30v. They pass the entire 48v through on the positive pin out and set the voltage up on the negative pin until they get 1000 mA out.

Look at the spec sheet i linked a few posts up to see how efficient they are with 5 leds on a 48v supply. They do it differently than the drivers you are thinking of.
 
OK. Thanks for the help. My mistake was thinking I could restrict the current with a resistor like you would a normal driverless led circuit. So... I have 7 LDD-1000H I'll be selling.
 
Hey fickle1. I replied to your PM but they get moderated since I just joined. Let me know if you don't see it soon and I'll just try to inflate my post count til I hit 10.
 
@ hifters1. Apparently same thing happened to my PM to you. I'm still looking for the 5-up boards if you still have them.
 
Little assist from the electrically gifted.

So I got my Typhon controller today, so of course I want to set up the dimming on it, of the PWM pins the top row is negative, the bottom row is positive on the controller, so the top wire goes to the Vin- on the power supply-dc side, the bottom wire goes to the PWM input on the LDD controller. I'm plugged it into the 5V side of things, and I think I may have gotten it figured out as far as how everything goes.

However, I'm confused because when I unplug the Typhon controller, the LDD goes dark. I thought that if there was a power outage you get full output. Not that I'm complaining mind you, but I just want to make sure I'm not potentially screwing up my LDD drivers (or controller). Does the Typhon have a resistor in place or something similar to the boards people made so it doesn't go full on with a power outage? When I completely unplug the PWM wires it kicks back onto full power.

Better safe than sorry.
 
Little assist from the electrically gifted.

So I got my Typhon controller today, so of course I want to set up the dimming on it, of the PWM pins the top row is negative, the bottom row is positive on the controller, so the top wire goes to the Vin- on the power supply-dc side, the bottom wire goes to the PWM input on the LDD controller. I'm plugged it into the 5V side of things, and I think I may have gotten it figured out as far as how everything goes.

However, I'm confused because when I unplug the Typhon controller, the LDD goes dark. I thought that if there was a power outage you get full output. Not that I'm complaining mind you, but I just want to make sure I'm not potentially screwing up my LDD drivers (or controller). Does the Typhon have a resistor in place or something similar to the boards people made so it doesn't go full on with a power outage? When I completely unplug the PWM wires it kicks back onto full power.

Better safe than sorry.

There are no pull down resistors on the PWM outputs of the Typhon. What your experiencing would be considered normal operation. The PWM pin of the LDD will "float high" with no wiring connected to it, and your leds will come on full blast. Now with with the only the wires connected, they may act similar to an antenna and pick up spurious signals(electrical speak for "noise") that will negate the "floating high" condition, causing your leds to remain dark. Essentially "loose" connections can cause all sorts of weird behavior. Just connect your typhon correctly, and enjoy it.
 
There are no pull down resistors on the PWM outputs of the Typhon. What your experiencing would be considered normal operation. The PWM pin of the LDD will "float high" with no wiring connected to it, and your leds will come on full blast. Now with with the only the wires connected, they may act similar to an antenna and pick up spurious signals(electrical speak for "noise") that will negate the "floating high" condition, causing your leds to remain dark. Essentially "loose" connections can cause all sorts of weird behavior. Just connect your typhon correctly, and enjoy it.

Hmm, electrical noise, it's funny because even when the power plug isn't in on the Typhon it still has the noise (and the Reef Keeper boys tried to convince me of electrical noise as the reason why the original Elite would go haywire). Oh well let their be noise I guess :D

Now I need to figure out why one driver only works when it connected to the controller.
 
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