Meanwell LDD driver: for those who want to dim to 0 using Arduino

Yes- you can do a lot with the freeware version. Just download it and start learning how to use the basic program. There's a couple of good tutorials on "Instructables" that will show you the basics. Once you get familiar with the program, just load my 5upLDD-H board & schematic files into it, and begin hacking away.
I haven't "pulled the trigger" yet on that 5up A6211 PcB just yet (But I did get (50) A61211 from DigiKey today, "for testing purposes". LoL They were $.70 each, and I couldn't resist).
You've given me an idea. What if I can make an A6211 PcB compatible with the existing LDD-H PcB? Most of the LDD-H PcB designs that have been already posted here have the LDD's mounted side by side. There may be enough "wiggle room" to allow me to fit a slightly longer A6211 driver PcB into the same basic footprint of the LDD-H. Thoughts?

Thanks for the info on Eagle, I'll start looking at it.
Sorry,I don't think I understand what you mean by "compatible"? Are you saying have A6211 on a board with LDD's, or just using A6211's in place of LDD's on a LDD board. What I like about the LDD set ups, is the IC sockets. You can switch to any size LDD's at will. If you could build a platform for the A6211 that would simply plug and unplug into the board, that would solve the replacement problem. :dance: ---Rick
 
Hey Iced, What kind of a fixture did you build that required 16 channels?---Rick

I'm doing 3 pendants with 5 channels each- 15 total that I originally planned to control independently. I am however contemplating using only 3 channels of control per pendant, allowing me to do that in 9 total channels used. I also have a red and an orange set of LED's specifically for effects (sunrise/sunset) and a channel of reds for over an eventual ATS. Frag tank is a possibility in the future, that would require 1 more pendant worth in the current plans.
 
Thanks for the info on Eagle, I'll start looking at it.
Sorry,I don't think I understand what you mean by "compatible"? Are you saying have A6211 on a board with LDD's, or just using A6211's in place of LDD's on a LDD board. What I like about the LDD set ups, is the IC sockets. You can switch to any size LDD's at will. If you could build a platform for the A6211 that would simply plug and unplug into the board, that would solve the replacement problem. :dance: ---Rick

Bingo! That's what I'm proposing. I want to make the A6211 "plug & play" just like an LDD-H.
 
So I realized that if I split my neutral white channel into two strings on each of my 24" heat sinks, I could get by (and have greater efficiency) with a 27 volt PSU, instead of a 48 volt model.

Anybody have any interest in a new-in-box 600 Watt Mean Well SE-600-48?
 
has anyone switched out there fan on there PSU?

I got some funny thing going on, where the fan won't startup, when I plug it back it in goes, but when I put the cover plate back on it shuts the fan off.... very odd, and doesn't seem normal. thought it was the fan and voltage / amp having a problem so I put the original fan back in, and it goes, but same thing, take the cover plate off and put it back on kills it..

problem is I don't know what the original ever sounded like / acted like, as I switched the fan before ever starting it up

wondering if anyone else encountered this
 
Good afternoon. Guys, help to create a board under my needs. I try to create a board for a second day that does not go out (unfortunately in electronics that does not understand). Plan to build light of three modules, each of which plan to install four drivers ldd-1000h. For simultaneous connection of the PWM signal to the lamp modules would use an IDE ribbon cable. I think to connect it would be good to use the BH-10 connector. I would also like to place on this board 3-pin connector WF-03R and bridge the it with BH-10, to allow connection of the temperature sensor DS18B20 to control the radiator temperature. Just want to ask, has seen the development of all, tell me, why in all projects of the power supplied to the drivers separately? In my opinion a lot of wires in the fixture is not good, the probability of an incorrect power connections. I think that the more convenient option to supply power to all the drivers installed on the board at the same time through a single terminal blocks, also a good idea to add one more to the board terminal blocks on 48/36/24 volt power line to be able to connect to the gap thermostat KSD 301 opportunities power failure in the event of critical overheating radiator. And most importantly, since the module installed many LEDs, one type of food one driver is not enough for them, I would like to ask the PWM bridge the contacts of the first and fourth drivers, in order that they are synchronized. I would be very grateful if someone will undertake to help.
 
what about the rest of the components that go along with the 6211 where would they be on the same board ?
also a variable resistor in place of the resens resistor would be nice
 
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what about the rest of the components that go along with the 6211 where would they be on the same board ?
also a variable resistor in place of the resens resistor would be nice

Yes- all the components would be on the same board. I like the adjustable Rsense idea, but variable resistors are not available in values that low( all of the Rsense resistors have values less than 1 ohm.) I'm thinking that I'll use jumper selectable current settings, but that adds to component cost and board space.
 

Those adapters are great for breadboard prototyping when you've got SMD components, but they're not anything I would need? Basically what I intend to do is create a A6211 driver that shares the same pin out and basic footprint of an LDD-H. That way it can plug-in to the same DIL-24 chip holder found on the 5upLDD-H PcB posted earlier in this thread. Since the LDD's are mounted very close together, I'll have to pay special attention to the width of the A6211 driver PcB, but the overall length can be expanded a bit to fit all the needed components.
I received (50) A6211 driver chips in the mail last night. They're small SOIC8 components, roughly 1/4" square. They're identical to the DS1307 RealTime Clock that I've been using in my Typhon Led controller builds for a long time, and twice the size of the LM3409, so soldering them is not an issue. LoL
 
007Bond is thinking you're making a new board that can take BOTH a socket for LDD's AND a NEW socket for the A6211's. You're thinking "I Can get everything to run an A6211 on a board that then plugs into a socket that could also be used for LDD's"

I think, anyway.
 
Basically what I intend to do is create a A6211 driver that shares the same pin out and basic footprint of an LDD-H. That way it can plug-in to the same DIL-24 chip holder found on the 5upLDD-H PcB posted earlier in this thread. Since the LDD's are mounted very close together, I'll have to pay special attention to the width of the A6211 driver PcB, but the overall length can be expanded a bit to fit all the needed components.

I get it now.
 
Basically what I intend to do is create a A6211 driver that shares the same pin out and basic footprint of an LDD-H. That way it can plug-in to the same DIL-24 chip holder found on the 5upLDD-H PcB posted earlier in this thread. Since the LDD's are mounted very close together, I'll have to pay special attention to the width of the A6211 driver PcB, but the overall length can be expanded a bit to fit all the needed components.

I get it now.

Good to clarify, I wasn't sure right away what he meant either :)

in this case, I REALLY like that idea.
 
Basically what I intend to do is create a A6211 driver that shares the same pin out and basic footprint of an LDD-H. That way it can plug-in to the same DIL-24 chip holder found on the 5upLDD-H PcB posted earlier in this thread. Since the LDD's are mounted very close together, I'll have to pay special attention to the width of the A6211 driver PcB, but the overall length can be expanded a bit to fit all the needed components.

I get it now.


Here's a crude picture of all the A6211 components crammed into the LDD-H foot print. Mind you, I haven't drawn the circuit connections yet, BUT it all fits! What say Ye?

A6211LDD-Hhybrid_zps3c07cce7.png
 
I'm about ready to order everything, but I want to know what watt resistor should I use.
It looks like the those little SMD ones (R1206) are 1/2 watt.

I don't think I can use them because my boards are the original 4up boards that did not have the pulldown resistor incorporated into the design so I need to solder one end of the resistor to the PWM pin first, scrape a small bit of coating off on the other end and then solder it to the ground plane.

Is this the correct resistor to use?
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062330
 
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