That will work. Just solder one end to the PWM pin and the other end to VIn- or ground. They can be soldered to the bottom side of the PcB after you've soldered in the DIL24 chip holders.
Meanwell LDD driver: for those who want to dim to 0 using Arduino
- Thread starter pwreef
- Start date
That will work. Just solder one end to the PWM pin and the other end to VIn- or ground. They can be soldered to the bottom side of the PcB after you've soldered in the DIL24 chip holders.
Could you just use the screw terminals to connect those thru hole resistors and avoid doing any soldering or board modifications. I think the leads would be long enough? but I don't recall how the terminals were laid out on all the various board versions.
Sacohen
New member
Sure- that would work too. You could solder one end of the resistor to the PcB's ground plane and just insert the other end into the PWM screw terminal. Just watch out - that you don't cause a short circuit with the bare leads of the resistor. That could be bad.:headwally:
joshlawless
New member
This is the layout for the boards that I got.
You could run a wire, with an appropriate resistor in-line, from each of screw terminals 5, 6, 7 and 8 (on J1) to screw terminal 4 (on J1).
joshlawless
New member
Alternatively, you could connect a resistor (with wire leads) to the backside of the board, between the PWM pin and one of the -In pins for each LDD.
Sacohen
New member
This sounds like an easier option.
Can you use 1 resistor and then have it go to all 4 terminals (5, 6, 7 & 8) or does it still need 4 resistors?
joshlawless
New member
If you tied the PWM pins together, you wouldn't be able to separately control the LDDs. You need 4 resistors.
All the different LDD-H current models can handle up to 56Vin, but a power supply with a 48V rating (+/-10%) is the closest you'll get to 56V for our purposes. Divide 48V by the Vf of your chosen Led's to determine the number that can be driven in each string.
You can order the boards here- ITEAD Studio - Make innovation easier
Just choose one of the PcB designs and download the attached Gerber file Zip Folder. Go to the Itead website and open the "Open PcB" tab and pick a PcB size option that fits the design that you've chosen and choose from the different PcB options in the drop down lists. Hint- stick with the "free" options and you can't get it wrong. Pay for the service and upload the Gerber files (make sure to rename the gerber files to include your order#)
007
I've attached a schematic that I drew up, and a copy of the A6211 part library. (I had to create the library from scratch) I just pulled the trigger on a bunch of the parts needed to build a few dozen of these drivers, but I haven't finalized the PcB design yet. I've got two designs, one- with all five drivers on one PcB and another that has the A6211 sharing the same pin out and footprint of an LDD-H. I'll finalize their design and order the PcB's after I have all the parts in hand. Have fun with your EAGLE!
Thanks O2... I'm really in, learn as you go. I got your schematic to come up, and printed it out so I can do some studying. I'm thinking I want to make new boards, although I have your 5up already. My main thing would be to make a change to led, power, and pwm connections to the boards via headers not screw down connections. I'll be watching for your new 6211 pcb design.---Rick
Vf would be 3.0-3.5 which is what the LED can handle.
I am currently running 2.1 ratio of rb and whites total of 96 using meawell 60/48P drivers.
I have more leds that I want to use to replace the current ones they are all cree ( which ones i do not know, but they 1200 mhA max
I am currently running 2.1 ratio of rb and whites total of 96 using meawell 60/48P drivers.
I have more leds that I want to use to replace the current ones they are all cree ( which ones i do not know, but they 1200 mhA max
@O2Surplus - got the analog to PWM converter yesterday. Very nice work, everything is so tiny. Did you do this by hand? Impressive if so. Thanks again!
Could you give me a quick description of what the 6 terminals (not the screw downs) are for, do some of them allow mini to usb for access to the chip?
Could you give me a quick description of what the 6 terminals (not the screw downs) are for, do some of them allow mini to usb for access to the chip?
@O2Surplus - got the analog to PWM converter yesterday. Very nice work, everything is so tiny. Did you do this by hand? Impressive if so. Thanks again!
Could you give me a quick description of what the 6 terminals (not the screw downs) are for, do some of them allow mini to usb for access to the chip?
Hey, I'm glad you like it! Yes, it was made by hand. Most of the surface mount components were soldered using hot air, but the Atmega chip and the rest of the through hole components were done with a conventional soldering iron.
The 6 pin connection is used for programming purposes only. You'll need a FTDI/USB adapter to connect the convertor to your PC. You can find the adapter on FleaBay for a few bucks. Typically they look like this-
I just finished up modifying the above 10V Analog/5V PWM dimmer to act as a manual dimmer. This dimmer should work for just about any Led driver that accepts a 5V PWM signal. Now you'll be able to adjust the output current of your LDD's "the old fashioned way", by turning a knob! LOL
Here's a picture of the PcB design-
I'll post the build files and software needed- if there's any interest.
Here's a picture of the PcB design-
I'll post the build files and software needed- if there's any interest.
