Meanwell LDD driver: for those who want to dim to 0 using Arduino

[jimbob321]

thank you for the 5 up letoan
i am about to start putting this baby together.

i am trying to keep everything in the heatsink footprint and build a case around it.
i have all the parts ordered to populate the ldd board, "2 ldd 700-h & 2 ldd 1000-h drivers,sockets and terminals" more than i need for a 29 cube but its future proof lol, . all thats left to get is power supply's i think.

[/URL][/IMG]

 

[letoan]

You're welcome J, have fun. I'm putting one together too. Getting there slowly.

 

[acron]

Can you make the frequency even higher than 1000Hz?

I don't believe, from datasheet 100 ~ 1KHz

 

[jedimasterben]

You're welcome J, have fun. I'm putting one together too. Getting there slowly.

Holy damn! That can light a small town - details on it?


And I thought Steve loved me for as much money as I've sent him, you pretty much just tripled it, easily lol

 

[letoan]

Holy damn! That can light a small town - details on it?


And I thought Steve loved me for as much money as I've sent him, you pretty much just tripled it, easily lol

Lol. 18 lux m nw, 36 lux m rb, 34 dual core violet, 34 cree blue, 9 rebel es cyan, 8 rebel es dr, and 3 rebel es rb for moonlight. That's all I could fit due to the limitation of Maker's 55" 5 channels heatsink. The total is roughly 900w or so.

 

[jedimasterben]

Lol. 18 lux m nw, 36 lux m rb, 34 dual core violet, 34 cree blue, 9 rebel es cyan, 8 rebel es dr, and 3 rebel es rb for moonlight. That's all I could fit due to the limitation of Maker's 55" 5 channels heatsink. The total is roughly 900w or so.

Jeebus in a half shell! How tall is the tank it is going over? With Ledil reflectors, that should net you at least a thousand PAR at 30"+. You'll fry anything you put under it lol

 

[pwreef]

I Have doubts the makers heatsink can handle this much heat. You will also have very narrow spread. I would be very careful running this fixture.

 

[jedimasterben]

I Have doubts the makers heatsink can handle this much heat. You will also have very narrow spread. I would be very careful running this fixture.

I've personally tested it to ~120w per 6", and as long as the fan(s) are going, the heatsink will only be warm to the touch.

 

[letoan]

Jeebus in a half shell! How tall is the tank it is going over? With Ledil reflectors, that should net you at least a thousand PAR at 30"+. You'll fry anything you put under it lol

The tank is 30" deep. I'm going to put Ledil 63 on the white and rb, the rest will be 80 degrees reflector from carclo.

I guess I'll dim it down if its too much

 

[jedimasterben]

The tank is 30" deep. I'm going to put Ledil 63 on the white and rb, the rest will be 80 degrees reflector from carclo.

I guess I'll dim it down if its too much

There's really not much guessing about it lol.

I use eight RB M over my tank (48"x24"x16"), 1000mA pushed through them. With Ledil reflectors, 32" from the substrate, I get around 200 PAR. When I had 12x of them running at 700mA over the same surface area, I got around 263 PAR.

And that's just from the RB chips - nothing else. I hit over 700 PAR total at the same distance with NW/RB/B/V.

 

[letoan]

I Have doubts the makers heatsink can handle this much heat. You will also have very narrow spread. I would be very careful running this fixture.

I tested it on a 12" makers with 12 luxeon m and 15 rebel es on it at max for 14 hours, its run pretty cool with a single 92mm fan.

 

[dread240]

Coming back to this thread...

I'm wondering if anybody has figured out a way to get them to dim all the way to 0 when utilizing the steve's analog to pwm converter board. My blue's and violets won't go out at all and sometimes the white and color channels are staying on too.

Obviously I'm getting just enough voltage/current into the steve's board that keeps them on. Wondering if anybody has had success using a very small resistor (like my 330ohm?) to turn it off completely

 

[zachts]

I tested it on a 12" makers with 12 luxeon m and 15 rebel es on it at max for 14 hours, its run pretty cool with a single 92mm fan.

You should probably put some fail safe in place in case a fan fails that will turn things off.......
as with out the fans things will get very, very, hot and very quickly!

Oh, Yeah, and HOLY COW BAT MAN! That's a lot of light. Tell me your not running the Luxoen M's at 1amp.

 

[letoan]

You should probably put some fail safe in place in case a fan fails that will turn things off.......
as with out the fans things will get very, very, hot and very quickly!

Oh, Yeah, and HOLY COW BAT MAN! That's a lot of light. Tell me your not running the Luxoen M's at 1amp.

There'll be a temp sensor connect to heatsink. The arduino will shutdown the led if overheat.

Luxeon M @1a = bad idea?

 

[jedimasterben]

There'll be a temp sensor connect to heatsink. The arduino will shutdown the led if overheat.

Luxeon M @1a = bad idea?

I'd be shocked if you ever run them over 500mA other than to test them out. Have you purchased or borrowed a PAR meter? If not, I would do that before you get your build finished. IMHO, having overkill is ok, but the level of overkill that you have is in its own league lol.

 

[letoan]

I'd be shocked if you ever run them over 500mA other than to test them out. Have you purchased or borrowed a PAR meter? If not, I would do that before you get your build finished. IMHO, having overkill is ok, but the level of overkill that you have is in its own league lol.

I have a par meter, I'll test it when done.

 

[jedimasterben]

I have a par meter, I'll test it when done.

Good lol. I was looking back at the data from Clive Bentley's original 'evil cluster'. 1500 PAR at 18", 300 PAR at 48".

The original evil cluster had 4x Bridgelux N1203 at 1,050ma, and 32x Cree XR-E royals at 1,050ma. At 100%, the array put out 5,520lm of white light and 30,560mW of royal blue light. The whole fixture would consume right around 200w.

Using modern LEDs, that would be 4x Bridgelux 40E950-B at 700ma (60w) and 5x Luxeon M RB at 1000ma (60w). At 100%, that would put out 6,200lm of white light and 31,000mW of royal blue light. The whole fixture would consume around 120w.

That would be for every 24"x24" area.

 

[letoan]

Good lol. I was looking back at the data from Clive Bentley's original 'evil cluster'. 1500 PAR at 18", 300 PAR at 48".

The original evil cluster had 4x Bridgelux N1203 at 1,050ma, and 32x Cree XR-E royals at 1,050ma. At 100%, the array put out 5,520lm of white light and 30,560mW of royal blue light. The whole fixture would consume right around 200w.

Using modern LEDs, that would be 4x Bridgelux 40E950-B at 700ma (60w) and 5x Luxeon M RB at 1000ma (60w). At 100%, that would put out 6,200lm of white light and 31,000mW of royal blue light. The whole fixture would consume around 120w.

That would be for every 24"x24" area.

That par measurements with water or air?

 

[jedimasterben]

That par measurements with water or air?

Air. It won't change noticeably with water due to refraction.

 

[zachts]

There'll be a temp sensor connect to heatsink. The arduino will shutdown the led if overheat.

Luxeon M @1a = bad idea?

Only from a heat stand point and a little concern from that many on the same rail of the maker's heatsink(the rails don't inter connect very well and basically each one only has 3 fins). The M's can tolerate a lot of heat on those copper pcbs but the junction temp, something we rarely measure in DIY may get much, much, hotter than the heatsink temp you are measuring. I'd start getting concerned if you monitor anything much over 70 Celsius on one of the rails near the M's, that would mean the junction temp could be well over 100 Celsius depending on the thermal resistance from the chip to the board and the pcb to the heatsink. (those are factors not know from the Steve's LEDs chips) One could assume reasonably at minimum a 10 degree Celsius per watt increase over ambient............

You need to be sure to measure near the LEDs not the outer housing surface which will remain considerably cooler than the inside of the heatsink due to the limited connectivity between rails of the makers, (or any other T slot heatsink). Ideally you'll mount your sensor so it is thermally connected to both the aluminum rail and the edge of the copper pcb from one of the M's.

But if after a couple hours you can still hold a finger on the heatsink next to an LED then your probably fine.

Did I mention I'm Jealous of the scale of your build :beer: