Meanwell LDD driver: for those who want to dim to 0 using Arduino

Really? I didn't know that ��
So I can supply two drivers with 16 leds, two with 4 and one with 2, from the same supply? Thats awesome!

Yes sir!!!

The one with only 2 will run less efficiently but won't get terribly hot like other type of drivers might. With 2 leds an LDD H driver fed off a 48volt power supply will be around 75% efficient compared to near 95% when running the max number of leds for the input voltage.

They also have the benefit of converting excess voltage into drive current, thus the extra efficiency and reduced heat so your 2 led string even if it was an LDD 1000 and was putting out 1000mA to the leds it would not be drawing anywhere near that current from the power supply.

Just to restate what was discussed at the way beginning of the thread you can use total LED wattage to size the PSU rather than driver amperage as when using other driver types. Still giving some head room of 25% or so over what you need, but can greatly reduce the PSU size especially for setups like what your planning.
 
Ok, I want to power two fixtures. Each with 16 NW, 16 RB, 4 Turquoise, 4 True Violet and 2 Red (all from LED Group Buy). So the drivers would be 2x1000mA (maybe 700mA) for NW and RB, 1x700 for TQ and 2x500 for TV and R. By my calculations, it should be 227W.
Would a Meanwell GS280A48-C4P (48V, 5.84A) be a good choice? It's fully enclosed and quite effective.
 
Ok, I want to power two fixtures. Each with 16 NW, 16 RB, 4 Turquoise, 4 True Violet and 2 Red (all from LED Group Buy). So the drivers would be 2x1000mA (maybe 700mA) for NW and RB, 1x700 for TQ and 2x500 for TV and R. By my calculations, it should be 227W.
Would a Meanwell GS280A48-C4P (48V, 5.84A) be a good choice? It's fully enclosed and quite effective.

Should be plenty, but having not looked up it's specs, can you adjust the voltage up beyond 48V? to run 16 LEDs you'll need to exceed 50V for the two 16LED strings, if it is not adjustable just drop down to 15 LEDs per string. Otherwise you should be set.
 
The "Elves" have been busy again!

Just built out a new 8up PcB and a new 4up LDD-H that includes an SCW12 DC/DC convertor and an arduino PWM fan control circuit. Check em out. I'll post the build files if there's an interest.

NewPcBs004_zpsc297fb8d.jpg


NewPcBs005_zpsb198a3a2.jpg
 
The "Elves" have been busy again!

Just built out a new 8up PcB and a new 4up LDD-H that includes an SCW12 DC/DC convertor and an arduino PWM fan control circuit. Check em out. I'll post the build files if there's an interest.

Yes, Please! especially if you happen to have a parts list to go with it, :)
 
The "Elves" have been busy again!

Just built out a new 8up PcB and a new 4up LDD-H that includes an SCW12 DC/DC convertor and an arduino PWM fan control circuit. Check em out. I'll post the build files if there's an interest.

NewPcBs004_zpsc297fb8d.jpg


NewPcBs005_zpsb198a3a2.jpg

Very clean and I like that you can just use a chopped up header set-up rather than a full IC socket cut down, Simple and effective...

Will work well with the Jarduino i am putting together... (waiting for the v1.3 software to be published). Typhon code works well as well...
 
Very clean and I like that you can just use a chopped up header set-up rather than a full IC socket cut down, Simple and effective...

Hey Thanks-

I found the "snap-able" machine pin headers make the proper mounting orientation of the LDD more obvious than the chip holders. This change should reduce the chances of accidentally installing an LDD "upside down" and also reduce the smoke and anger that comes from said mistake. LOL:eek1:
 
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