Meanwell LDD driver: for those who want to dim to 0 using Arduino

This is from a PM from O2:


Ok, so that does add a layer of complexity to the array. Wasn't planning on using PWM control (I am using 5/6 of my PWM channels of the Bluefish controller for my main array and plan on using the last for my fuge) and there is no way as of right now to force a full PWM signal through one pin. As long as there is 12v always hot, I should be able to just run a wire from the fan ground to the 48v DC ground, right?

Yes- connecting the fan's negative lead to ground will force the fan to turn on. You can also trigger the fan to turn on by jumpering a +5V or +12V signal to the "Enable" pin. Where you source the voltage is up to you. :beer:
 
Yes- connecting the fan's negative lead to ground will force the fan to turn on. You can also trigger the fan to turn on by jumpering a +5V or +12V signal to the "Enable" pin. Where you source the voltage is up to you. :beer:
Wait, so I can essentially connect the 12v hot pin of the SCW to the enable pin and it'll also work?
 
Yep! Once you understand how the circuitry works, you'll notice a lot of different ways to make it work for your particular needs.:dance:
Sweet. Glad I figured this out before I ripped everything apart to get to the fans, that would have been so much work I probably would just have given up lol.

Maybe on the next revision there can be a jumper to enable/disable the control like there is with the pulldown resistors on the LDD?
 
Hey guys - LDD buzzing when dimmed, this is due to the PWM frequency that the controller is outputting, correct?

IIRC- Yes. Try altering the frequency of the controller. That should help. I didn't install caps on the outputs of my A6211 drivers right from the get go to avoid the same "buzzing" problem right out of the gate. LOL
 
IIRC- Yes. Try altering the frequency of the controller. That should help. I didn't install caps on the outputs of my A6211 drivers right from the get go to avoid the same "buzzing" problem right out of the gate. LOL
This is using the Bluefish controller, so I do not have control over the frequency unfortunately. :/
 
This is using the Bluefish controller, so I do not have control over the frequency unfortunately. :/

Well- if the frequency of the controller is not adjustable- maybe installing some additional high value 50V caps across each led string will quiet the "buzzing" caps in your LDD's? You up for a trip to RadioShack?:lolspin:
 
Well- if the frequency of the controller is not adjustable- maybe installing some additional high value 50V caps across each led string will quiet the "buzzing" caps in your LDD's? You up for a trip to RadioShack?:lolspin:

Le sigh, I may have to if I can't get these damned bees out of my mancave!

oprahbees.gif




And my driver box is already filled to the brim. Oy.
IMG_20140531_180513871.jpg
 
Can't believe how toasty the SCW get, even when they aren't enclosed. Can only hold my finger to them for a few seconds before it gets unbearable :O
 
Can't believe how toasty the SCW get, even when they aren't enclosed. Can only hold my finger to them for a few seconds before it gets unbearable :O

Yeah they can get a bit "warm". Dropping 48V to 12V is gonna create some heat using any electrical wizardry that's less than 100% efficient.:D
 
02 if using the SCW gets so hot wouldn't I be better off using a 12v wall wart in place of it I am placing the 2 8 up Rott specials I got from you along with a arduino Ethernet, proto board and and and a 7" screen in a 12x10x4 plastic box will cut vents on one side and put laptop fans on other to suck heat out. might put one facing in across the 8 ups just to help move hot air off the boards
 
I think this was pointed out before but keep in mind the SCW is basically a good old PSU and I'd hesitate to run it much over 50% capacity (which ain't much) if not given good air flow. As with the LDD it will shut down if too hot but you don't want your fans to shut off now......If it gets REALLY hot, like it hurts to touch it then you have an issue and should check the mA rating on your fans again. :D

Otherwise don't worry, 105 - 120 F feels pretty darn hot and uncomfortable to a finger but doesn't matter to most electronics.
 
i just got my scw , i noticed on the photo of o2's board it's 470 ma.
but the one i got is 250 ma.
i must have ordered the wrong one :( . 03c and should have been 05c.
i have the right one on the way
 
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I think this was pointed out before but keep in mind the SCW is basically a good old PSU and I'd hesitate to run it much over 50% capacity (which ain't much) if not given good air flow. As with the LDD it will shut down if too hot but you don't want your fans to shut off now......If it gets REALLY hot, like it hurts to touch it then you have an issue and should check the mA rating on your fans again. :D

Otherwise don't worry, 105 - 120 F feels pretty darn hot and uncomfortable to a finger but doesn't matter to most electronics.
Yup, the SCW05 are rated up to 60C (140F) at 100% output and 80% output at 71C (160F), so they're all good as they are :)

I need to get me an IR thermometer at some point.
 
Yup, the SCW05 are rated up to 60C (140F) at 100% output and 80% output at 71C (160F), so they're all good as they are :)

I need to get me an IR thermometer at some point.

That's one toy IR-eally need to buy! :lolspin: never could justify it and then I went out and bought an apogee par meter one day on something of a whim...........

Without going back to data sheet to look that'll be internal temp, not sure you can measure that, could calculate it but I prefer the finger test, if it doesnt leave a red burn mark on my finger I'm probably good (that also means after it's been running enclosed and I pop the case open after a few hours and quickly give it a touch before it cools) :D
 
IR temp readers are available for a pittance now from China. Just do it :)

I did and it actually reads pretty close to the STC1000 which I trust..

Tim
 
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