Meanwell LDD driver: for those who want to dim to 0 using Arduino

Krazie4Acans · Apr 8, 2015

Chris you have got to have newer picks of that setup with all the lights and some livestock. Let's see how it's doing.

Ligershark · Apr 20, 2015

i was helping my friend make an led accent bar over the weekend similar to a reefbrite.

the power switching supply comes on and the scw fires the fans. the storm x controller also turns on and controls the fans. The led bar will not turn on. I have checked for conductivity/grounding and have found none. All leds turn on when tested with a battery tester. I think we reversed the v+ and v- input. It was getting late so we only had time to reverse two of the connections at the ldd drivers to see if it would work and the string did not fire.

we are using two coralux boards daisy chained together. we did this by running the ground to ground and v to v on the coralux boards own inputs.

if one string (channel) of leds is wired incorrectly does it inhibit the the whole light from firing?

O2Surplus · Apr 20, 2015

Ligershark said:
i was helping my friend make an led accent bar over the weekend similar to a reefbrite.

the power switching supply comes on and the scw fires the fans. the storm x controller also turns on and controls the fans. The led bar will not turn on. I have checked for conductivity/grounding and have found none. All leds turn on when tested with a battery tester. I think we reversed the v+ and v- input. It was getting late so we only had time to reverse two of the connections at the ldd drivers to see if it would work and the string did not fire.

we are using two coralux boards daisy chained together. we did this by running the ground to ground and v to v on the coralux boards own inputs.

if one string (channel) of leds is wired incorrectly does it inhibit the the whole light from firing?

One mis-wired led string should not affect the others? Are you sure the LDD's themselves were installed correctly on the PcB? Are the drivers getting a PWM signal from the StormX? The pull down resistors on the Coralux boards will make it impossible to light the strings without a PWM signal. Triple check your connections and report back.

iced98lx · Apr 21, 2015

Krazie4Acans said:
Chris you have got to have newer picks of that setup with all the lights and some livestock. Let's see how it's doing.

tank is going through a rough period after being underlit for 5 months not everything took well to the lighting as a result the coral I transferred over has little to no polyp extension so I'm waiting to continue the filling of the tank until we get through the new tank syndrome period.

here is a recent FTS with all the lights going:

iced98lx · Apr 21, 2015

Oh and to stay on track, a friend brought over his project for his biocube for me to solder up, I think he may have overkilled:

perkint · Apr 21, 2015

Should be a good light

Tim

Krazie4Acans · Apr 22, 2015

iced98lx said:
Oh and to stay on track, a friend brought over his project for his biocube for me to solder up, I think he may have overkilled:

I think you might be right! I would have mixed the colors up instead of doing rows to prevent banding but it should still work. I hope it's going on a dimmer because that is a ton of light for a biocube.

iced98lx · Apr 22, 2015

Krazie4Acans said:
I think you might be right! I would have mixed the colors up instead of doing rows to prevent banding but it should still work. I hope it's going on a dimmer because that is a ton of light for a biocube.

With that many LED's in that amount of space I think we'll be OK with the color banding, but I could be wrong and regret it later, who knows. They are 120 degree optics and we'll obviously be running them pretty low on the biocube.

They are going on a dimmer, 3 channels (White/Blue/Violet) on a simple arduino setup.

Krazie4Acans · Apr 22, 2015

I hope your right. I did a build similar to that on my JBJ nanocube and it banded. I ended up pulling the leds and making a random pattern (luckily the wires were long enough) and then gluing them back down.

Very similar setup and same optic degree. I hope yours doesn't do that.

zachts · Apr 22, 2015

iced98lx said:
With that many LED's in that amount of space I think we'll be OK with the color banding, but I could be wrong and regret it later, who knows. They are 120 degree optics and we'll obviously be running them pretty low on the biocube.

They are going on a dimmer, 3 channels (White/Blue/Violet) on a simple arduino setup.

If you do notice any banding a light sanding of the acrylic splash gaurd does wonders, of course if it's not easily removed and replaced in the biocube you might not want to sand the stock piece and insert a second one on top of it....... there is also some very nice peel and stick diffuser out there.

Krazie4Acans · May 21, 2015

Chris how did the lights work out? Did you end up with any banding issues? Just curious.

iced98lx · May 21, 2015

Krazie4Acans said:
Chris how did the lights work out? Did you end up with any banding issues? Just curious.

no banding issues according to owner.

O2Surplus · May 21, 2015

LOL- It's been a while since I've added anything to this thread. Here's my latest project. It's a 6 LDD-H/dual SCW Pcb designed for use with the new BlueFish "Mini" Wifi led controller. " Comes with more features and flexibility than you can shake a stick at".

perkint · May 21, 2015

I'd seen that on another forum (your boards get everywhere

). Looks very good

What I didn't see mentioned on the other forum and I can't see on the PIC - DS18B20 (or other temp) input?

Tim

iced98lx · May 21, 2015

O2Surplus said:
LOL- It's been a while since I've added anything to this thread. Here's my latest project. It's a 6 LDD-H/dual SCW Pcb designed for use with the new BlueFish "Mini" Wifi led controller. " Comes with more features and flexibility than you can shake a stick at".

You're killing me man, I have so many upgrade ideas for mine lol

O2Surplus · May 21, 2015

perkint said:
I'd seen that on another forum (your boards get everywhere ). Looks very good

What I didn't see mentioned on the other forum and I can't see on the PIC - DS18B20 (or other temp) input?

Tim

Tim-

The Arduino Nano is only there to step up the Mini's 480Hz PWM signal to an inaudible 25Khz PWM signal for cooling fan control. I suppose if some one really wanted temperature controlled fans, they could easily solder a DS18B20 and a 4.7k resistor directly to the Nano, and make the needed software changes. LOL- Sometimes..... I do like to leave a little bit of the "DIY work" to the "DIYer":lolspin:

Krazie4Acans · May 22, 2015

O2Surplus said:
Tim-

The Arduino Nano is only there to step up the Mini's 480Hz PWM signal to an inaudible 25Khz PWM signal for cooling fan control. I suppose if some one really wanted temperature controlled fans, they could easily solder a DS18B20 and a 4.7k resistor directly to the Nano, and make the needed software changes. LOL- Sometimes..... I do like to leave a little bit of the "DIY work" to the "DIYer":lolspin:

Where are the eagle files for this one? Man so many possibilities here. Sure wish the price on that bluefish would drop a bit more but...

Hit me up O2Surplus. lol

O2Surplus · May 22, 2015

Krazie4Acans said:
Where are the eagle files for this one? Man so many possibilities here. Sure wish the price on that bluefish would drop a bit more but... Hit me up O2Surplus. lol

The "Mini" is a $100. That's not cheap but it's half the price of it's bigger stand alone brother. I'll release the build files for this version soon, I just need to find good homes for all the "leftover" PcB's that I have laying around.

Here's a little run down about all the jumpers-

 - I designed this PcB as a Master/Slave combination. Only one BF Mini is needed to control multiple boards. The "œMaster"PcB houses the Mini controller. From the Master, the Mini's 6 channels of PWM signals are passed directly and unaltered to the 2 onboard Ethernet connections. Ethernet cables can then be used to connect multiple driver Pcbs in a daisy chained fashion. This design makes it possible to control multiple driver PcBs, each configured to operate independently from the first, as diodes are employed on all 6 PWM channels to prevent cross signaling between multiple boards.
Since "œa picture is worth a thousand words" Here's some photos that show the PcB wiring of the jumpers, followed by various end user selectable jumper pin configurations-

BFMini6up%20Jumper%20Config_zpsvq5ptfvn.png

BF%20Mini6up%20jumper%20configurations%20007_zpsefvlzhkm.jpg

BF%20Mini6up%20jumper%20configurations%20006_zpsdqe8wvmn.jpg

BF%20Mini6up%20jumper%20configurations%20004_zpsfrt2hzwd.jpg

BF%20Mini6up%20jumper%20configurations%20003_zpsvwqlfumh.jpg

BF%20Mini6up%20jumper%20configurations%20002_zpspbkupou9.jpg

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Krazie4Acans · May 22, 2015

O2Surplus said:
The "Mini" is a $100. That's not cheap but it's half the price of it's bigger stand alone brother. I'll release the build files for this version soon, I just need to find good homes for all the "leftover" PcB's that I have laying around.

Here's a little run down about all the jumpers-

 - I designed this PcB as a Master/Slave combination. Only one BF Mini is needed to control multiple boards. The "œMaster"PcB houses the Mini controller. From the Master, the Mini's 6 channels of PWM signals are passed directly and unaltered to the 2 onboard Ethernet connections. Ethernet cables can then be used to connect multiple driver Pcbs in a daisy chained fashion. This design makes it possible to control multiple driver PcBs, each configured to operate independently from the first, as diodes are employed on all 6 PWM channels to prevent cross signaling between multiple boards.
Since "œa picture is worth a thousand words" Here's some photos that show the PcB wiring of the jumpers, followed by various end user selectable jumper pin configurations-

If you have boards already made I'm game for that to! let me know.

marspeed · May 22, 2015

I'm using the bluefisn now I could use a board I was going to design a board that would put everything in my led fixture but you already have one and I don't have the time right now

Marc

Meanwell LDD driver: for those who want to dim to 0 using Arduino

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