Metal halides, "thriving LTA" anda new Yellow Anemone

jacobzking

New member
I guess this is sort of part III to my nem saga. My new 150w x3 metal halides came in today, which my LTA seems to love... looked like he got a tentacle boner when those things kicked on for the first time.

So after a few weeks, my LTA seems to be doing well. After being yelled at by everyone here, I added a ton of sand (he has 3-4" locally and in most of the tank). And the 450w metal halide system is a BIG upgrade from my 84w T5 :hmm4:

After hooking up me new lights, I also added my 2nd nem, a yellow one along with an anemone crab since these nems won't host fish. Have a look...

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That anemone is a host species. It's H. malu. An awesome colored and rare malu.

BTW, you probably need to separate the tangs.

Twelve hours is fine on the lighting. Just keep an eye on the anemones near the end of the photo period. If they begin to retract before the lights go out, you may want to shade the anemone a little, or reduce the photo period.

Malu is a sand dwelling anemone as well. You probably should have placed it in a position similar to the doreensis.
 
I thought the same, Malu, but pic wasn't clear enough and it's on rock(most likely will change w/ add of new lighting)
I also thought that is a stunning color for a Malu.
Your clowns may bounce between the two nems, the regal, well, that may just bounce...
 
Malu is a sand dwelling anemone as well. You probably should have placed it in a position similar to the doreensis.


doh! now what? should I just leave it to see if it relocates on its own?

or I could do what I did with my LTA that was on rock... bury the Malu's rock with sand up to where the malu is.

also, seeing how I have ICH, would a UV sterilizer be a good idea, at least help a little? ICH seems to be minor, I'm trying Garlic Extreme in food and in water (1 drop per 10 gallons daily starting today).

also, what clown would possibly take to it? any harm in having the two different clown species together in the same tank. my perc NEVER leave's the LTA unless its feeding time.
 
If it's anchored to rock well, I would leave it and let it walk down on it's own, wouldn't risk tearing foot.
A UV may aid in ridding freefloating ich.
The only species I'd mix w/ a perc is an occ, anything else will most likely fight.
Eventually your perc may discover it, if it doesn't, you could always sell that Malu to me!:)
 
Slow down. You should really start asking questions before you make purchases.

You can have two ocellaris if you like, and while malu is not their natural host, they often use them as a host in captivity. However, you should not buy any fish until you get the ich out of your tank.
 
i moved the rock he was on so it was closer to the sand, then I piled up sand next to his feet, so if he wants the sand, its right there.
 

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It's hard to say, personally I'd rather have a pair of percs, and the new guy may aid in both sharing both nems, maybe.
My maroons were hosted by two seperate nems at far ends of my 180g, going back and forth.
Only issue is the female kinda threw her weight around in cruising back and forth.
Since then I prefer one nem, or maybe a couple nems next to each other if same species, but most get big(except the malu)
Only one pair of clowns should be kept unless a very large tank.
 
Slow down. You should really start asking questions before you make purchases.

You can have two ocellaris if you like, and while malu is not their natural host, they often use them as a host in captivity. However, you should not buy any fish until you get the ich out of your tank.

I think OP has one perc already, but agree on waiting till the funk is gone before buying anything.
 
I think OP has one perc already, but agree on waiting till the funk is gone before buying anything.

you're correct. i do have a pretty decent sized true perc already.

what are your thoughts on getting rid of ICH with NO QT tank? I'm using garlic extreme in the tank per directions. I'm also adding a UV sterilizer tomorrow.

I've seen the sailfin tang "scratch" his side on a rock once or twice, but that's it. haven't seen the regal do it (regal shows no signs of Ich. here's the sailfin tang... pretty sure it's Ich.

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does that stuff on his bottom fin look like Ich? It's really small; almost too small to see without blowing it up on the computer. If he does have Ich... he seems healthy as can be. Eats like crazy.
 
You don't want to add more than one more clown to your system. You already have a hippo tang that's most likely going to get beat to death. You don't want to start another war.

Didn't you just upgrade? If you still have the smaller tank, you can use it for a QT. There's no sure way of getting rid of ich outside of leaving the tank fishless for six weeks or so, and medicating the fish in a different tank. UV is not a cure for ich.
 
well, the regal has REALLY bad ich now (tons of spots and not eating). sailfin has a few spots but is eating like there's no tomorrow and acting fine.

I gave them both 6 minute fresh water dips. didn't seem to effect the sailfin as he was acting pretty normal, but the number of ich spots is significantly less. the regal is acting WAY better after the dip. first time I've actually seen him out swimming and the amount of ich is considerably less (you could see it all falling off in the freshwater bath).

-added an 18 watt UV sterilizer (need to hook it up to a slower pump though; currently hooked up to me eheim 2075 which pumps around 330gph)

-raised temp to 80-81

-lowering SG to 1.020

-treating food with garlic extreme

-started "Ich Attack" reef safe treatment

Hopefully between all those measures I can kick the ich. I'm basically doing everything shy of setting up a QT tank. Wish me luck.
 
Bring the sg back up or those nems are going to suffer. 1.020 won't matter anyway. If you want to hypo it needs to be exactly1.009 for at least 4 weeks.
 
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