dreaminmel
New member
The 1500gph overflow kit should come with a wood template you can use. Mine did.
MikeRads 120g reef tank
- Thread starter mikerads
- Start date
dreaminmel
New member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15175158#post15175158 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Conesus_Kid
The worst part about drilling is the anxiety you feel while doing it (along with the clenched sphincter). Otherwise, it's not that bad. In fact, drilling a larger tank (like a 120) is way easier than drilling a small tank (like a 10 gallon), (right, Mel?)
If you can drill a 10g then you can drill any of 'em.
Johnny C
New member
As others have said, you have a very nice setup!
Consider me another +1 for drilling the tank. A few months ago I purchased the Glass-Holes overflow kit for my nano tank and I couldn't be happier with the service. They'll send you EVERYTHING you need to do it (including the bit and template) and have excellent customer service if you have any questions. The kit that mel mentioned is great and is surprisingly small compared to others. I'm sure Walter or someone else would be happy to help w/ the drilling.
Looking forward to seeing this setup become alive, keep us posted!
Consider me another +1 for drilling the tank. A few months ago I purchased the Glass-Holes overflow kit for my nano tank and I couldn't be happier with the service. They'll send you EVERYTHING you need to do it (including the bit and template) and have excellent customer service if you have any questions. The kit that mel mentioned is great and is surprisingly small compared to others. I'm sure Walter or someone else would be happy to help w/ the drilling.
Looking forward to seeing this setup become alive, keep us posted!
Drill, baby, drill
Drill, baby, drill
Well,
It was not too bad. I went slow, used a variable speed drill with a clutch and wammo three new holes in 1/2" glass. The overflow holes took awhile, the return line was pretty easy. Glass-holes has some great instructions and even included some candy. A great product.
I have the overflow connected along with the return. Tomorrow I will finish off the PVC plumbing and get my rock back in the tank. Overall a very anxious, but easy DIY project. My suggestion is the have a drill with a clutch where you can dial back the RPMs. I had one that had a low and high setting. The low setting was perfect (~400 RPM).
Here is a picture of the overflow and return freshly drilled. I will follow up tomorrow or the next day with the full plumbing project.
Drill, baby, drill
Well,
It was not too bad. I went slow, used a variable speed drill with a clutch and wammo three new holes in 1/2" glass. The overflow holes took awhile, the return line was pretty easy. Glass-holes has some great instructions and even included some candy. A great product.
I have the overflow connected along with the return. Tomorrow I will finish off the PVC plumbing and get my rock back in the tank. Overall a very anxious, but easy DIY project. My suggestion is the have a drill with a clutch where you can dial back the RPMs. I had one that had a low and high setting. The low setting was perfect (~400 RPM).
Here is a picture of the overflow and return freshly drilled. I will follow up tomorrow or the next day with the full plumbing project.
Conesus_Kid
Premium Member
Nice job! Very clean! :thumbsup:
You're going to be way happier with this than the HOB overflows.
Nothing like a little extra peace of mind...
You're going to be way happier with this than the HOB overflows.
Nothing like a little extra peace of mind...
cardiffgiant
Active member
Wow, great job and fast work!! You're going to be very happy that you did this from the start.
reefman5511
New member
Looking good!
No need to drain the complete tank though: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OlaOl-dBniI&feature=related
Don't think I'd try it!!
No need to drain the complete tank though: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OlaOl-dBniI&feature=related
Don't think I'd try it!!
captain7359
Active member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15174347#post15174347 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dreaminmel
:bounce3: :bounce1: :bounce2: Woohoo!
What I "think" I learned when watching a local reefer drill the two holes for mine...
-Feel free to go slow w/ the drilling and use either a lubricant or lots of water to help keep the bit from getting too hot.
-Go extra gentle as you get close to the other side to avoid large chips of glass breaking off as you drill through. Large chips can cause issues with getting the seals to form a water tight bond when you're putting the overflow setup together.
If I'm wrong on this or anyone has any additional info please feel free to chime in.
Mel, you got the important stuff and I didn't even see you taking notes!!
Great job Mike!! How far down did you put the overflow from the trim?
Someone feel free to wack me and wake me up next time someone needs help on something like this.
dreaminmel
New member
Excellent job! :thumbsup:
Not sure if everyone does this or not but both times I assembled PVC plumbing I first ran filtered freshwater through the system to check for leaks. If no leaks I then added salt. If there had been leaks it would have given me the chance to patch or redo any plumbing necessary without potentially wasting salt.
Can't wait to see the rock stacked back in!
I put the overflow only about 1/4" below the overhanging trim. I measured the base of the teeth up 1/2" (instructions say they run 1/2" to 3/4" up the teeth) to the desired water line. I wanted the water line to be just above the lowest point of the trim.
One other question on the plumbing. I am planning on running the right elbow, looking at the back straight down to drain into my refugium compartment. The other elbow, I was going to take at about a 45 to the left side of the back to drain into my skimmer compartment. Doing so eliminates an elbow. Any reasons not to do this?
Conesus_Kid
Premium Member
Eliminating elbows is good.
captain7359
Active member
Wow, it's sad, but I just realized that the last pict that you posted was of the back of the tank!!! It looked like the box was a couple inches below the trim, but I guess I should have drank more before I asked.
On the plumbing question, you should have no problems with angling the one 90, it should actually make it a bit quieter, since the water doesn't "fall" at all.
On the plumbing question, you should have no problems with angling the one 90, it should actually make it a bit quieter, since the water doesn't "fall" at all.
Alright, I am now back in the game. The slight detour of draining the tank and drilling is over. I now have the PVC plumbed to the sump, rock stacked and water back in the tank. I was a bit worried that the rock work was a one time thing, but I am quite pleased with the way it turned out the second time. I made some peninsulas this time. I am VERY pleased with the clean look of the overflows, return and plumbing. Here are some final pictures, I did not take a picture of the back before moving it into place.
If you use you imagination, the overflow are on the left side of the tank. The far left overflow line goes straight down and into the sump. The right overflow line goes down at <45 deg angle to the right side of the sump. Each overflow line has a ball valve. The return line is 3/4" Spa Flex with a 3/4" to 1/2" threaded adaptor connecting to the return pump.
The Glass-Holes return kit came with lock-line. I have adjusted that line to break the siphon quickly. It is really nice to only have to account for a power failure and not the loss of a siphon. The only adjustment I plan to make is rotate the sump 180 deg. This would put the skimmer on the left side and refugium on the right. The flow from the perpendicular (left) overflow line is greater than the right angled side. Makes sense, more resistance and distance to travel. I could adjust it with the Overflow baffle or the ball valve, but rotating the sump would then allow for no adjustment.
I plan to get some baseline tests this weekend and start the cycle with a raw piece of shrimp. The rock came from established tanks and has a bunch of critters on them so the cycle should be pretty smooth. I will keep everyone posted. As much advice as you can supply is appreciated.
If you use you imagination, the overflow are on the left side of the tank. The far left overflow line goes straight down and into the sump. The right overflow line goes down at <45 deg angle to the right side of the sump. Each overflow line has a ball valve. The return line is 3/4" Spa Flex with a 3/4" to 1/2" threaded adaptor connecting to the return pump.
The Glass-Holes return kit came with lock-line. I have adjusted that line to break the siphon quickly. It is really nice to only have to account for a power failure and not the loss of a siphon. The only adjustment I plan to make is rotate the sump 180 deg. This would put the skimmer on the left side and refugium on the right. The flow from the perpendicular (left) overflow line is greater than the right angled side. Makes sense, more resistance and distance to travel. I could adjust it with the Overflow baffle or the ball valve, but rotating the sump would then allow for no adjustment.
I plan to get some baseline tests this weekend and start the cycle with a raw piece of shrimp. The rock came from established tanks and has a bunch of critters on them so the cycle should be pretty smooth. I will keep everyone posted. As much advice as you can supply is appreciated.
Conesus_Kid
Premium Member
Looks good! :thumbsup:
Is that heater submerged enough?
Is that heater submerged enough?
I do not think so on the left, there was some salt on it last night. The one on the right is deep enough. I think I am going to move both of the heaters to the right side to be safe or maybe angle it. Thanks, I was wondering that myself last night when I saw the salt build up.
I have also seen some recommendations to put one heater in the sump and one in the display. Is this a good or common practice?
I have also seen some recommendations to put one heater in the sump and one in the display. Is this a good or common practice?
cardiffgiant
Active member
The key is to keep your heaters in a high flow area. Which can be tough to do if you tuck them out of view in the display.
backdraft79
New member
Looking good!
shawna1972
New member
Looks great, Aqua scaping look good also. Nice job
Patience
Patience
Good Morning,
I believe my tank has officially cycled. I think it actually went through a small cycle after I put the rock back in after drilling. I then waited a week or so and dropped in some raw shrimp. The ammonia increased over the course of two days slightly (not really a big spike) and then went back to 0. Nitrite's are also 0. I purchased a CUC from LiveAquaria that should arrive on Friday.
CN-89190 SW - Banded Coral Shrimp (BYO), Qty:1
CN-89184 SW - Scarlet Reef Hermit Crab (BYO), Qty:15
CN-89192 SW - Astraea Turbo Snail (BYO) - Large, Qty:20
CN-89197 SW - Nassarius Snail (BYO), Qty:10
CN-89186 SW - Green Lettuce Nudibranch (BYO), Qty:2
CN-89179 SW - Sally Lightfoot Crab (BYO), Qty:1
CN-89191 SW - Peppermint Shrimp (BYO), Qty:3
CN-89187 SW - Brittle Sea Star (BYO), Qty:1
I stayed away from the Blue Hermits and Emerald Hermits because they are listed as opportunistic eaters and could attack snails or corals. Has anyone witness this behavior? Do the benefits of these hermits outweigh the risk?
I have some additional snails I will be transferring from my Nano. I will not be at the one snails per 1-2 gallon or one crab per 3-5 gallons, but it is a start. I will add as I need to.
I will add the CUC after I acclimate and then slowly add corals from my nano over the course of a week or so. I am gonna hold off on fish for another couple of weeks.
Patience
Good Morning,
I believe my tank has officially cycled. I think it actually went through a small cycle after I put the rock back in after drilling. I then waited a week or so and dropped in some raw shrimp. The ammonia increased over the course of two days slightly (not really a big spike) and then went back to 0. Nitrite's are also 0. I purchased a CUC from LiveAquaria that should arrive on Friday.
CN-89190 SW - Banded Coral Shrimp (BYO), Qty:1
CN-89184 SW - Scarlet Reef Hermit Crab (BYO), Qty:15
CN-89192 SW - Astraea Turbo Snail (BYO) - Large, Qty:20
CN-89197 SW - Nassarius Snail (BYO), Qty:10
CN-89186 SW - Green Lettuce Nudibranch (BYO), Qty:2
CN-89179 SW - Sally Lightfoot Crab (BYO), Qty:1
CN-89191 SW - Peppermint Shrimp (BYO), Qty:3
CN-89187 SW - Brittle Sea Star (BYO), Qty:1
I stayed away from the Blue Hermits and Emerald Hermits because they are listed as opportunistic eaters and could attack snails or corals. Has anyone witness this behavior? Do the benefits of these hermits outweigh the risk?
I have some additional snails I will be transferring from my Nano. I will not be at the one snails per 1-2 gallon or one crab per 3-5 gallons, but it is a start. I will add as I need to.
I will add the CUC after I acclimate and then slowly add corals from my nano over the course of a week or so. I am gonna hold off on fish for another couple of weeks.
shawna1972
New member
Looks great!
I need to get ya over here to stack my rock lol although I really enjoy doing it,I just never think it looks good enough
Nice job though! Have you though about your first fish?
I need to get ya over here to stack my rock lol although I really enjoy doing it,I just never think it looks good enough
Nice job though! Have you though about your first fish?
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