Mike's 300 Double-D

Nice pictures Mike! What kind of lens do u use for those clear closeups?

I also wanted to ask if all of your fish were reef safe?
 
Mike,

Your fish selection has me amazed! :eek1::eek1:
I keep a list of fish I like and want for my 300, and u have a lot of my list. The wrasses are amazing, do u do anything special to keep the aggression down? How many wrasses do u have total? What us your feeding schedule like? I am sure you posted it already, but can't seem to find it, how do you keep them out of your overflow/ from jumping out?



Sorry so many questions, my stand is almost ready, tank is at lfs..... Getting excited
 
Loved the video and the aquascape! I'm inspired to reach something like that. How do you keep the back pane so clean? Obviously you're cleaning it but is it hard to reach? How do you keep the overflow box so clean? Simply awesome and thanks for sharing.

DT
 
You have some skills with that camera, come to Tucson and teach me.

Thanks, Brett. Terry blew past my skills after we got that new camera. We'll have to plan a trip out to Tucson - are there any good resorts out there? :)

Stunning photos as usual, M & T! Love the peek-a-boo shot :D

Thanks Kenny - we need to add a web cam to our list of projects so we can catch more "special moments".

Mike, I tried to PM you but I do not have enough posts. I presently have a 220, but I already ordered my 300DD. Do you have drawings or plans for your stand? If so would you email them to me at adg426@aol.com? I am in Springfield VA. I would love your thoughts on the stand.

Sonny, I don't think the stand plans were anything fancy - probably just a sketch on the trusty graph paper pad. I'll take a look around and send you something. The basis of it is the RocketEng design, substantially strengthened and overbuilt :D

It ended up being a 290..........long story, but its up and running. Here is the link.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2126138
I hope it is as impressive as yours someday. Threads like these are fantastic inspiration!!

Wow Kris - that tank and sump are really something else! What an exciting build you have going there.

Nice pictures Mike! What kind of lens do u use for those clear closeups?

I also wanted to ask if all of your fish were reef safe?

Thank you Tim! We have several lenses we use for tank pictures. Our macro lens is a Tamron 90mm, and we also use a Nikkor 35mm portrait lens for some close ups.

As far as the fish go, I suppose it depends on your definition of safe. Most are well-behaved. The regal angel picks but doesn't do any real damage except on select LPS corals - she's selective about which ones she eats - we have a couple of really pretty orange/red acans that we have to keep in the prop tank because she enjoys them so. The file fish likes certain zoanthids (again seems to be select species/colors).

Mike,
Your fish selection has me amazed! :eek1::eek1:
I keep a list of fish I like and want for my 300, and u have a lot of my list. The wrasses are amazing, do u do anything special to keep the aggression down? How many wrasses do u have total? What us your feeding schedule like? I am sure you posted it already, but can't seem to find it, how do you keep them out of your overflow/ from jumping out?
Sorry so many questions, my stand is almost ready, tank is at lfs..... Getting excited

Thanks Shane. We are careful to try and get juveniles if we can, and we use QT and then acclimation boxes when introducing new members (that last bit seems to really help!). For the fish list, look at post #1,000 on page 40. We typically feed 3x daily; the leopard wrasses are usually still sleeping during the first feeding. To guard against fish jumpers, we built some DIY screens (see page 27 for details on that). The overflow is covered with a DIY acrylic cover (don't think we have a picture of that posted...maybe I'll take one tonight). We know you're excited about your new tank - looks like you have a well-thought-out plan there. Can't wait to see it come to life!

Loved the video and the aquascape! I'm inspired to reach something like that. How do you keep the back pane so clean? Obviously you're cleaning it but is it hard to reach? How do you keep the overflow box so clean? Simply awesome and thanks for sharing.
DT

Thanks for the kind words, DT! The back glass is scraped with several long-handled metal scraper gadgets we keep on hand, and the overflow box (which is acrylic) is scraped with an acrylic-friendly scraper gadget. For both of these, yes it is a chore!! Let's just say it involves some gymnastics. For tanks of this depth and height, it is crucial to have wide-open side access panels if you have a canopy like we do. I basically have to climb in through the side panels and hang down inside. For in-wall setups, most have catwalks or leave walk-around space on the edges of the stand.
 
Hey Mike, one more question. I am about to order some fiberglass rods to help build my aquascape. I was looking at your thread again and saw the pictures about using pavers underneath your rock, so that the live rock isn't buried in the sand. But when I looked at the pictures of your rock going into the tank, I don't see anything placed underneath. Did u guys decide not to use them? And how did u get your base rock to sit so high above your substrate? And how deep is your sand bed? I know that wrasses like to sleep in the substrate, so is yours extra deep?
 
Good eye Tim! We did not find it necessary to use pavers. We had a large selection of rock to choose from with many flat, heavy pieces that worked great as bases. We used Starboard underneath our "trees" to help spread the weight of our structures and help protect the glass.

We have 2 to 2.5" of sand on the left and right sections of the DT(the Starboard is .5" thick). In the center (no Starboard) the sand depth is approx 2.5 to 3". The leopards tend to make there beds in the center area.
 
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Good eye Tim! We did not find it necessary to use pavers. We had a large selection of rock to choose from with many flat, heavy pieces that worked great as bases. We used Starboard underneath our "trees" to help spread the weight of our structures and help protect the glass.

We have 2 to 2.5" of sand on the left and right sections of the DT(the Starboard is .5" thick). In the center (no Starboard) the sand depth is approx 2.5 to 3". The leopards tend to make there beds in the center area.

Mike, would u recommend I use something under my rock? Maybe not pavers, but how about eggcrate? My tank will be acrylic, so I'm not sure if I need to displace the weight of the rock. But I would like to raise it up a little, so it doesn't look like it's buried by sand. Let me know what u think, thanks.
 
Mike if you don't mind me asking how many bags of sand do u have total?

Shane, it's hard to say exactly, since we started with some sand we had been cooking in a vat, then added some new. My guess is for the shallow sand bed look we have is around 100-130 lbs.

Mike, would u recommend I use something under my rock? Maybe not pavers, but how about eggcrate? My tank will be acrylic, so I'm not sure if I need to displace the weight of the rock. But I would like to raise it up a little, so it doesn't look like it's buried by sand. Let me know what u think, thanks.

For an acrylic tank, there is less of the concern of the pressure points or a falling rock structure cracking the bottom. So if your only objective is to elevate the rocks up out of the sand, you have many options.
John used an innovative PVC base - see post #513 on page 21 of our thread

Slief planned to use egg crate with little pvc legs - his thread is amazing, and you can see the rock support on post #2

You can also take the approach we took, which was to use flat base rock pieces at the bottom of your structures. That is essentially the same thing you saw that Sanjay used in his wonderful reef.

I'm sure there are plenty of other ways to achieve the goal - perhaps someone else will chime in here with ideas that have worked well. Keep us posted on what you wind up doing!
 
So to fix our light rack canopy-mounting dilemma, we looked around at some big weight-bearing sliding rail setups. The closest thing we could think of was those pots & pans rack jobbies they sell at Lowe's. Those all had the sliding rails mounted vertically - makes sense, as that provides the greatest load-bearing strength. So then we got to thinking, let's flip the rails vertical, and then construct some kind of bracket system on top of the light rack so we can attach the rails. Here's how it turned out:

Light Rack 6.JPG


Light Rack 5.JPG


We picked up some of those DIY plugs and created quick-disconnects for the Lumenmax Elites. The wires are run into the wall at canopy level, and come out underneath the stand, where they'll be connected up to the ballasts:

Light Rack 7.JPG


Here's how it looks from underneath:

Light Rack 8.JPG


Light Rack 9.JPG


Still quite a few more things to do with the lighting:
  • Install ballasts/switch panel under stand
  • Procure 5' VHO fixtures and install
  • Tidy up wiring up top and down below

But getting the rack mounted was a big check mark for the project.

Mike,
Did you use stainless steel drawer slides? I'm looking to copy your design for my new tank and the stainless drawer slides I'm seeing are around $300.

Also, do you have any sketches of how you designed the support pieces and their receiver for the front face when it's hinged upward. What keeps them from falling sideways into the tank or pivoting downward? I assume you have a 4 sided receiver for them, but I can't see it.
 
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Mike,
Did you use stainless steel drawer slides? I'm looking to copy your design for my new tank and the stainless drawer slides I'm seeing are around $300.

Also, do you have any sketches of how you designed the support pieces and their receiver for the front face when it's hinged upward. What keeps them from falling sideways into the tank or pivoting downward? I assume you have a 4 sided receiver for them, but I can't see it.

Hi Hal, This is Terry... :wavehand: Mike has been really busy with work this week and we didn't want to leave you waiting for a reply.

We re-used the drawer slides that the cabinet maker used with the original slide out design which incorporated a very heavy piece of plywood. So I'm sorry we can't be of much help there.

Here are a couple of pics that should definitely help you with the support pieces and their receivers:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/terryl93/6861307648/" title="nt 2245 by terryl93, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7185/6861307648_f97915ebf1_b.jpg" width="680" height="1024" alt="nt 2245"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/terryl93/6861307626/" title="nt 2244 by terryl93, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7076/6861307626_2c222e5b74_b.jpg" width="1024" height="680" alt="nt 2244"></a>

Good luck and let us know if you need anything else. :D


Ita all very nicely done

Thank you rpjaws74! :D
 
Terry,
Thanks for the pics. What does the dowel do?

Now that you've had the light rack and canopy for a year or so, if you were to do it over, would you change anything? What works really well, and what do you find challenging or a pain? Do you find that you have sufficient access to the inside of the tank for normal maintenance and things (righting an upside down snail, adding a coral, etc.)?

For my design, I thinking about using a gas strut on the front face (one designed for saltwater use, i.e., boating stuff) to hold it in the upright position. I'm curious to know whether you looked at them, and if so, why you decided against using them.

I'm also considering putting my hinge on the back of the top so the entire top and front hinge upward. The lights would then be fixed to the top. With the top open, it seems like I'd have maximum access to the tank. Did you consider this type of design and reject it?
 
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Thank you very much guys! Glad you enjoyed the video.



Alex, we shot this particular video with our Panasonic HDC TMC700 camcorder which does autofocus. Our Nikon D300s will shoot HD video, but is limited to 720p.


The scientific name is Holanthias borbonius and a couple of common names used are Borbonias Anthias and Blotched Anthias. They are definitely very striking fish.

I want that fish, its beautiful, I have never seen one at the lfs.
 
Terry,
Thanks for the pics. What does the dowel do?

The dowel is the handle(s) to allow easy sliding of the canopy front support bar(s) in and out.

Now that you've had the light rack and canopy for a year or so, if you were to do it over, would you change anything? What works really well, and what do you find challenging or a pain? Do you find that you have sufficient access to the inside of the tank for normal maintenance and things (righting an upside down snail, adding a coral, etc.)?

The light rack is one of the best things we've done with the entire setup. It gets used daily for routine maintenance, feeding, adjustments of the livestock, aquascaping, etc. The canopy design was crucial for maintenance of a display tank of this size. We're very happy with it. Big side access doors are essential. The piano hinge door for the front of the canopy is also something that gets used daily. In terms of what has gone well, there are a few:
  • the MH reflectors can be rotated easily as the needs of the livestock change
  • it makes it possible to gain access to the back of the display, overflow box, etc., without removing the canopy!
  • the structure of the light rack makes it easy to add and upgrade additional lighting, e.g., we just recently added some new LED strips, which installed in a snap onto the rack
  • the entire rack comes out of the canopy easily when the canopy needs to come off of the tank (which thankfully is infrequent!)
  • being able to easily slide the entire light rig out makes changing and cleaning bulbs and reflectors simple
The things that need improvement:
  • support for the wiring harness needs to be improved. It droops down too low right now and gets in the way a bit. We need to figure out how to support it and still have the slack to allow the rack to move in and out easily
  • we are fairly limited in the height of the reflectors we can have in the canopy/light rack. The Lumenmax elites we are using are low profile, but if we wanted taller reflectors, we would have them down too close to the water level and thus limit the light spread, etc. This is more of a problem with the canopy height and the light rack than one or the other
  • the hinges used for the panel doors on the front and sides of the canopy are not rust resistant and thus are not holding up well. Similarly, the paint used on the inside of the canopy was not marine-grade epoxy and it is wearing way too fast. This will need to be repainted using epoxy.

For my design, I thinking about using a gas strut on the front face (one designed for saltwater use, i.e., boating stuff) to hold it in the upright position. I'm curious to know whether you looked at them, and if so, why you decided against using them.

Yes, we did look at those. It was overkill in my view and one more thing that added cost, weight, and potential problems down the road. The swing front canopy is super easy to use, and with the slide out support bars, it's foolproof and easy.

I'm also considering putting my hinge on the back of the top so the entire top and front hinge upward. The lights would then be fixed to the top. With the top open, it seems like I'd have maximum access to the tank. Did you consider this type of design and reject it?

Hmmm, yes, we had a similar design on our 125g reef tank. The piano hinge was in the middle of the top of the canopy, so the front half of the canopy swung up. The front actinic bulb was mounted to this portion of the inside. We did consider something similar with this, but the sheer size of the canopy with a display tank this deep would create some challenges.
1) the weight of it would make flipping it up difficult for one person (the wife would probably not be able to do it)
2) the hinge would have to be industrial strength. Don't underestimate the amount of use this canopy hinge will get! You will use it daily.
3) you would be shaking the light rig every time you lift the canopy, this means extra wear and tear on your bulbs, fixtures etc. By having the canopy lid separate from the lights, you avoid this

The slide-out rack makes it easy to get inside the canopy for just about any maintenance task. There are the rare occasions when we've got something that is too big to get in or out through the side doors of the canopy (a huge coral colony or piece of liverock, etc.). For these chores, I recruit a friend or neighbor to help me lift the canopy off the display. The quick-disconnect wiring harness for the lights makes this a pretty straightforward chore.
 
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We thought we'd share a few coral pics taken this weekend:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/terryl93/7014035395/" title="P1000209 by terryl93, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7256/7014035395_8f3571f22e_b.jpg" width="1024" height="735" alt="P1000209"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/terryl93/6867926198/" title="P1000207 by terryl93, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7071/6867926198_1051d8a86e_b.jpg" width="878" height="1024" alt="P1000207"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/terryl93/7014035053/" title="P1000206 by terryl93, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7211/7014035053_aa645767af_b.jpg" width="1024" height="709" alt="P1000206"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/terryl93/6867925700/" title="P1000198 by terryl93, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7223/6867925700_68522d117b_b.jpg" width="1024" height="702" alt="P1000198"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/terryl93/6867925476/" title="P1000197 by terryl93, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7054/6867925476_7eb41d4ed5_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="P1000197"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/terryl93/7014034007/" title="P1000188 by terryl93, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7061/7014034007_02ef2f846b_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="P1000188"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/terryl93/6867924026/" title="P1000180 by terryl93, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7102/6867924026_74ffede26a_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="P1000180"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/terryl93/7014033741/" title="P1000186 by terryl93, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7206/7014033741_0cf0f2d4c6_b.jpg" width="768" height="1024" alt="P1000186"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/terryl93/7014032399/" title="P1000178 by terryl93, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7220/7014032399_6dd68e7ffd_b.jpg" width="1024" height="771" alt="P1000178"></a>
 
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