Mile High 220 Gallon SPS

great build, excellent work! The 220 was the dream tank I've always wanted; I had to "settle" for a 180 recently (I know, boo hoo right??)
I really like how you've got your cord management going on here. Following along!
 
I had a 180 for many years. Decided to try the 220, all I'll say is be careful what you wish for, the extra 6" make it quite difficult to reach anything on the sandbed. I'm tall and have really long arms too! I had heard the stories and thought I'd be okay, it's manageable but if I could go back and do it again, I would drop the height, maybe do 28" or 26" instead of 30".


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Great build!

Few quick questions

- How long is your internal overflow?
- Is the external box on one side only, the whole length, same as internal or are there 2 external boxes?

Please let me know, pulling my hair trying to make a decision with which way to go.
 
The internal box is 48".

The external box is 24" I think, I offset to the left by 6" as I wanted it close to one end to make plumbing easier.

I used Modular Marine for overflow, they were excellent and might be able to help you, the tank is made by Custom Aquariums. Modular was able to ship the overflow to Custom Aquariums and they drilled the tank to fit the overflow.


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I appreciate your prompt reply.

How many and how big are the bulkheads between internal and external boxes.

Can you estimate the amount of flow going through your overflow, did the MM rate it?
 
I appreciate your prompt reply.

How many and how big are the bulkheads between internal and external boxes.

Can you estimate the amount of flow going through your overflow, did the MM rate it?



2 bulkheads, I think there 2".

Not sure on flow, I'm running an Apex COR 20, 4 clicks down from full blast, but can run on full blast no problem, so flowrate of the overflow has to be over 2000gph


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Had some time over the weekend to work on clearing up this rats nest of wires as they come through the wall, so difficult with all the power supplies these days.

Before
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I used the EcoTech power supply brackets, works for any brands power supply.
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After
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Tidied up the power cables a bit more too.
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Also got around to setting up my RODI unit, it's lived in a plastic container that I would have to unpack every time I made water the past year, so this made my OCD self happy.
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I'm now trying to figure out how to plumb a manifold into the room behind the tank. This was the original plan I drew, in that gap between the shelving unit and frag tank I was going to stand up a UV sterilizer and have space for other equipment down the road. So planning the manifold is tricky.

Any suggestions?


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Is the manifold going to be fed by the return pump? Or is this separate?



I've got a 2nd COR 20 I was going to use for the manifold.

Just wondered, when I come through the wall, should I lay the manifold out horizontally or vertically? Just trying to think what's more practical and space effective.


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I've got a 2nd COR 20 I was going to use for the manifold.

Just wondered, when I come through the wall, should I lay the manifold out horizontally or vertically? Just trying to think what's more practical and space effective.


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You could do it either way. Important thing will be putting a valve AFTER the manifold so you can regulate back pressure. Otherwise, you may not get the desired flow through your reactors.
 
That's good advice, I didn't think about that. I think it makes sense to mount in horizontally, is it best to make the outlets hang down, or do they need to come straight out?



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That's good advice, I didn't think about that. I think it makes sense to mount in horizontally, is it best to make the outlets hang down, or do they need to come straight out?



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Once again, it depends on your preference and how you will use the ports.
 
Agreed, that's really about preference and aesthetics. Like Puff said, as long as they have the valves after the manifold, it doesn't matter much about how you orient the manifold or the outputs.
 
Is it better to use gate valves or ball valves on the manifold? I'm thinking gate valve will be a bigger investment up front, but will allow more precision?


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Although neither valves are meant to regulate flow. If you want the valve to be either fully open or closed use a ball valve. If you want to have more precise control then a gate valve will be necessary. I wish that a company would offer a reasonably priced PVC globe and needle valves suited for the aquarium industry. but, I think for our needs a gate valve gets the job done.
 
I agree about the gate valve. You have much more precision with a gate valve versus a ball. I screwed up and made my siphon with the ball valve (at least it's a quality one though) and the emergency has a gate valve. I could switch them but just don't feel like doing it. :0) But it would be a good idea.
 
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