Mini Split A/C
- Thread starter Oldtimer
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8BALL_99
New member
Well I didn't get one cause I was told by a HVAC guy they sucked.. My uncle had one in his sun room that broke on him a couple of times. Now I've heard they have gotten better, But a decent one is like 2500 bucks. You can pretty much get a normal 2 Ton Central unit for that price Probably a little more.
I ended up just using a window AC and cutting a hole in the wall for it. Since my equipment room is on the back side of the house and pretty much right beside my two central units for my home anyway I wasn't super worried about looks. Plus to a good window AC to cool my room was like 150 lol and if it goes out in a few years then No big deal. I can replace it myself for the cost of a single HVAC service call. Now if your not lucky enough to be able to use a window ac and you don't have attic space above the room then your pretty much stuck with a Mini split.
BTW the HVAC guy that said they sucked was a Carrier dealer and my uncles was some other brand.
I ended up just using a window AC and cutting a hole in the wall for it. Since my equipment room is on the back side of the house and pretty much right beside my two central units for my home anyway I wasn't super worried about looks. Plus to a good window AC to cool my room was like 150 lol and if it goes out in a few years then No big deal. I can replace it myself for the cost of a single HVAC service call. Now if your not lucky enough to be able to use a window ac and you don't have attic space above the room then your pretty much stuck with a Mini split.
BTW the HVAC guy that said they sucked was a Carrier dealer and my uncles was some other brand.
Interesting. I don't have the option of using a window A/C unit since my fish room is located in the basement and the only window in the room is a 1 x 3' glass block window with small vent that can be opened for airflow.
$2500 is insane for a mini split unless you are cooling an entire house with it. A decent 9000 or 12000 BTU/h unit can be had for $1000-$1500 based on my research. That's not a no name brand either. If you go with something less credible like Celiera you can get them under a grand. Besides wiring it you only need to run refrigerant line between the Evaporator and the condenser. It's a pretty simple install so even a contractor shouldn't charge more than $200-300 to install it if you didn't do it yourself. I plan to install mine.
I'm undecided on capacity. Very roughly speaking you want 1 Ton (12,000 BTU/h) for roughly 400 sq ft. My fish room is close to 150 sq ft and even if you consider a high humidity & heat production, a 9000 BTU/h unit is plenty. However, we're dealing with lots of standing water here (roughly 500 gallons in my case) so evaporation will be high. I don't want to oversize my system, have the unit cycle all the time and burn up the compressor, but I also want enough capacity. I'm considering a 9000 BTU/h unit with the possibility of adding a chiller later (like the Profilux PTC) if absolutely necessary.
I know the right way to size the system is to use Manual J, but I'm not clear if it accounts for standing water. Perhaps HVAC-Code is another option to size. A homeowner version can be had for about $40. I'm looking into that at the moment. I'm basically trying to see what others have used and get their feedback based on first hand experience.
$2500 is insane for a mini split unless you are cooling an entire house with it. A decent 9000 or 12000 BTU/h unit can be had for $1000-$1500 based on my research. That's not a no name brand either. If you go with something less credible like Celiera you can get them under a grand. Besides wiring it you only need to run refrigerant line between the Evaporator and the condenser. It's a pretty simple install so even a contractor shouldn't charge more than $200-300 to install it if you didn't do it yourself. I plan to install mine.
I'm undecided on capacity. Very roughly speaking you want 1 Ton (12,000 BTU/h) for roughly 400 sq ft. My fish room is close to 150 sq ft and even if you consider a high humidity & heat production, a 9000 BTU/h unit is plenty. However, we're dealing with lots of standing water here (roughly 500 gallons in my case) so evaporation will be high. I don't want to oversize my system, have the unit cycle all the time and burn up the compressor, but I also want enough capacity. I'm considering a 9000 BTU/h unit with the possibility of adding a chiller later (like the Profilux PTC) if absolutely necessary.
I know the right way to size the system is to use Manual J, but I'm not clear if it accounts for standing water. Perhaps HVAC-Code is another option to size. A homeowner version can be had for about $40. I'm looking into that at the moment. I'm basically trying to see what others have used and get their feedback based on first hand experience.
8BALL_99
New member
I don't think you can go by any HVAC manual.. I use a 8000BTU unit because a 6000BTU wouldn't cut it.. My room is only like 11x6 or 7'. I asked two different HVAC guys what size unit to get based on the amount of water and Lights I had. They both told me a 6000BTU would be plenty.
When I priced them The smallest mini split was around 2grand installed..
When I priced them The smallest mini split was around 2grand installed..
Just throwing this out there.
I have a fish room in the basement (about 150 sqft) and could not use a window air conditioner either. I thought about installing a mini split system. I ended up trying a portable a/c unit. It is a 12000 btu unit from costco, $400. The A/C unit is controlled by a temp controller in the tank. When the tank reaches a set point fans and a/c turn on.
I had to cut two holes in the rim joist for two 6 inch ducts. The ducts are shared with two fantech fans using backdraft dampers. The fantechs help remove humidity and in the winter time they will replace the a/c unit.
I am really happy with it so far. Here is a photo.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/25155538@N02/2709913232/" title="2008-07-28_00-18-00_1601 by tluttmann, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3237/2709913232_46728c4111.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="2008-07-28_00-18-00_1601" /></a>
Theron
I have a fish room in the basement (about 150 sqft) and could not use a window air conditioner either. I thought about installing a mini split system. I ended up trying a portable a/c unit. It is a 12000 btu unit from costco, $400. The A/C unit is controlled by a temp controller in the tank. When the tank reaches a set point fans and a/c turn on.
I had to cut two holes in the rim joist for two 6 inch ducts. The ducts are shared with two fantech fans using backdraft dampers. The fantechs help remove humidity and in the winter time they will replace the a/c unit.
I am really happy with it so far. Here is a photo.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/25155538@N02/2709913232/" title="2008-07-28_00-18-00_1601 by tluttmann, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3237/2709913232_46728c4111.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="2008-07-28_00-18-00_1601" /></a>
Theron
Thanks for all the feedback.
Theron - I like your setup. Much cheaper option, although takes up a bit more floor space and I'm already short on that given my plans to have a utility sink, work area, make-up water containers, hospital tank, not to mention my 4 supporting tanks (fuges, frag tank, water change tank) and a massive skimmer. So, I'm still leaning towards the mini split for space reasons if nothing else. How often does it run during the summer? Does it have a tray to catch condensate?
KEEPERZ - What size tank and total system volume? How often does it run in the summer? What's the SEER rating and model number? How long have you had it?
8BALL_99 - While I could be wrong, I'd think there's some sort of software package or manual that can account for the excess heat load and humidity considering that there are things like indoor pools in homes that would pose a similar challenge. My neighbor is in the HVAC business and I know he's technically involved so I'll have to run this by him. He deals mainly with large commercial installations so I'm unclear how much he's come across large open vats of water in enclosed spaces.
Theron - I like your setup. Much cheaper option, although takes up a bit more floor space and I'm already short on that given my plans to have a utility sink, work area, make-up water containers, hospital tank, not to mention my 4 supporting tanks (fuges, frag tank, water change tank) and a massive skimmer. So, I'm still leaning towards the mini split for space reasons if nothing else. How often does it run during the summer? Does it have a tray to catch condensate?
KEEPERZ - What size tank and total system volume? How often does it run in the summer? What's the SEER rating and model number? How long have you had it?
8BALL_99 - While I could be wrong, I'd think there's some sort of software package or manual that can account for the excess heat load and humidity considering that there are things like indoor pools in homes that would pose a similar challenge. My neighbor is in the HVAC business and I know he's technically involved so I'll have to run this by him. He deals mainly with large commercial installations so I'm unclear how much he's come across large open vats of water in enclosed spaces.
gilweb
Member
I know it's not exactly a fish room but 1.5 years ago I had a Mitsubishi 3.0 ton split installed in a server room in one of our sub offices. The room is about 10x9 with 19 servers and a host of other heat emmiting equipment. The unit has been rock solid and has never needed repairs. It was pricey though. i think it was $3000.00 installed.
KEEPERZ
In Memoriam
"KEEPERZ - What size tank and total system volume? How often does it run in the summer? What's the SEER rating and model number? How long have you had it?"
1000g total-not sure how often, the room is insulated pretty good but the summers are real toasty here, it is the MR.SLim model and have run it for a couple yrs now
1000g total-not sure how often, the room is insulated pretty good but the summers are real toasty here, it is the MR.SLim model and have run it for a couple yrs now
Thanks Keeperz. I've been considering the Mr Slim model so that's good to hear. You have double the amount of water as I so I have a feeling that a 9000 BTU/min unit will do just fine here in Michigan where summer temps rarely exceed upper 80's to low 90's.
gilweb - Thanks. The 3 ton unit is a bit overkill for me. That's 36000 BTU's. I'm no computer expert, but I'd be shocked if servers produce that much heat.
gilweb - Thanks. The 3 ton unit is a bit overkill for me. That's 36000 BTU's. I'm no computer expert, but I'd be shocked if servers produce that much heat.
8BALL_99
New member
19 servers lol heck yeah they produce a Ton of heat. Turn that AC off for a couple hours and they would all Cook
Oldtimer, They might can figure it. One of the guys I asked owns a very large HVAC company in town.. Infact I used him on several different buildings.. Including a Bar and Grill and a tanning saloon. Not the same thing.. But they do all kinds of jobs not just the run of the meal installs. People with indoor pools use special systems to begin with.. They dont use a standard AC unit ment for a home. 9000Btu would probably be fine for you though.. Like I said I have about 500 Gallons with 1800watts of light and my unit is 8000 BTUs. It hits mid 90s if not low 100s during July- August. But my lights also don't kick on till the afternoon at 3pm.
Oldtimer, They might can figure it. One of the guys I asked owns a very large HVAC company in town.. Infact I used him on several different buildings.. Including a Bar and Grill and a tanning saloon. Not the same thing.. But they do all kinds of jobs not just the run of the meal installs. People with indoor pools use special systems to begin with.. They dont use a standard AC unit ment for a home. 9000Btu would probably be fine for you though.. Like I said I have about 500 Gallons with 1800watts of light and my unit is 8000 BTUs. It hits mid 90s if not low 100s during July- August. But my lights also don't kick on till the afternoon at 3pm.
I hear you about the floor space issue. I thought my room was large, but it is filling up fast with all the equipment and tanks I want in there.
I ran some tests when I first installed the lights. 2x400 watt halides. With the lights running about 8 hours a day and all the pumps the A/C would consume about 6-7 kwhs per day I think. So it ran about 6 hours I would guess. This was during the hottest of days.
The condensation is removed through the vent, I do not need to empty collected water. It does have a plug if I want that option.
I really like the mini split system, but this is so much cheaper and easy to install / replace. I would assume the mini split will be more efficient at cooling too.
Theron
Theron: I never considered that option (I'm in the same boat as oldtimer... still setting up my fishroom). I have the problem that I already have a ton of mechanical junk in my flowerbeds and I don't really want another condenser outside. This may be an option for me if I need more cooling.
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