Minimalistic multichip DIY LED build

Are you going to control the meanwells with a controller? I'm looking to control mine and my power heads but not sure how to do it.
 
Thats the plan. I have a reef keeper so I'll need to get the ALC module. Right now I'm using a 12K POT and a 12V wall wart.
 
I prefer a whiter look then blue but I will through the blues in to get the corals to pop a little. As I understand it 10000k is good for growth of coral. Am I wrong about this? Does anyone think 100w of 10000k and 40w of 420nm will look to yellow?
 
can we use this to pwer/control the LED ?

CMB-16DQC Deluxe DC card ==> from Light-O-Rama

maybe a couple of 20W or 50W in each channel.
 
I don't know about ur meanwells but mine, the HLG-80H-48B doesn't need the wall wart. Just a 100k ohm pot.

I know. I tried it both ways just because ;). I never wired a POT as a voltage divider (I always wanted to say that) before so it is a new adventure. My day job involves software design and implementation in a hospital. Working with things I can actually touch is what I do for fun.

When I get it on my controller it will be getting the 0 - 10V signal so I wanted to give that a rip.
 
I prefer a whiter look then blue but I will through the blues in to get the corals to pop a little. As I understand it 10000k is good for growth of coral. Am I wrong about this? Does anyone think 100w of 10000k and 40w of 420nm will look to yellow?

I have the actinic hybrid and it is quite white. The only reference I have is this; I used to run 14k XM halides and they were brilliant white. Then I got some 14k Phoenix bulbs and they were quite blue. The actinic hybrid looks more like my old XM and the Phoenix bulbs running beside the hybrid have kind of a green/blue tinge by comparison.
 
I prefer a whiter look then blue but I will through the blues in to get the corals to pop a little. As I understand it 10000k is good for growth of coral. Am I wrong about this? Does anyone think 100w of 10000k and 40w of 420nm will look to yellow?

The key wavelengths for photosynthesis for most corals is between 420-460 nm. And yes - it will be rather yellow in a saltwatertank with your configuration. Since you usually do not change as much water in a saltwater tank compared to a freshwater tank accumulates more yellowish organic substances in the water. These then reflect a yellowish color to a much greater extent than in a normal freshwater aquarium.

With this type of multichip you need at least 2 white to 1 blue (in the 445-455 range) but in your case I would prefer a ratio of 1:1

The 420 is good to have with but for our eyes it will appear very weak.

Sincerely Lasse
 
Last edited:
Tony do you have any pictures of the wiring of you're pot

I'll get you one this morning. The blue wire goes to the middle tab and the white wire goes to either side depending on if you you want it increase or decrease resistance by turning it clockwise. But Ill get you a pic in about 2 hrs.


Tony
 
Tony do you have any pictures of the wiring of you're pot

This is the best I can do. With the shaft pointing away from you and the tabs facing up I have the white wire on the left tab and the blue on the middle tab



Tony
 

Attachments

  • photo.jpg
    photo.jpg
    59.9 KB · Views: 7
"What Lasse had recommended. Despite all the negative people have talked about him one her, he knows what he's talking about. I'm using the Meanwell HLG-80H-48B with 4 20wers in series and apparently still have some room to add a couple of Crees for a bit more white"

Budlight + iPad = bad typing.

Should say "on here" where I underlined.


Tony
 
Last edited:
OK - you have 8 V left on each driver at full load - you can not put anymore 20 watts multichip in serie (they take around 10 V) - but what you can do is to the white serie ad 2 Cree XL-M in to this serie - they manage up to 3 A and at yours 1.7 A they will give around 3.15 as FV and therefore around 5 watt each. You put them in a serie (daisy chain) with your whites. Of course - you can put 2 XL-M to each of the other series also but when you do not get any pure colors.

Lasse,

Did you mean Cree XM-L instead of XL-M?

Thanks,
Tony
 
A couple more of my build



Tony
 

Attachments

  • photo 1.jpg
    photo 1.jpg
    71.7 KB · Views: 7
  • photo 2.jpg
    photo 2.jpg
    64.1 KB · Views: 6
  • photo 3.jpg
    photo 3.jpg
    65.9 KB · Views: 6
  • photo 4.jpg
    photo 4.jpg
    67.4 KB · Views: 7
Back
Top