Minimalistic multichip DIY LED build
- Thread starter maglofster
- Start date
mr.wilson
.Registered Member
Here's a new article on reef lighting...
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2012/10/aafeature
"Our main conclusion from the above is that violet and blue light are most important for marine photosynthetic organisms."
Keep in mind, this conclusion is being applied to all corals collectively, and is not a focus on aquarium species that are grown in 6' deep water.
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2012/10/aafeature
"Our main conclusion from the above is that violet and blue light are most important for marine photosynthetic organisms."
Keep in mind, this conclusion is being applied to all corals collectively, and is not a focus on aquarium species that are grown in 6' deep water.
Hello
Can you tell me what is the brand of your PAR-meter, and where have you buy, please? :thumbsup:
bhazard451
New member
Excellent article. These are the best lines taken from it.
"Concluding from the above, light in the 400-500nm range is most beneficial for marine photosynthetic organisms, and its shortwave portion (400-450nm) is most useful for their bright coloration."
"Apart from that, the white LED spectrum quickly diminishes in the dark-red range, around 650-660nm. According to the model shown in Fig. 4, this part of the spectrum is also required for shallow-water photosynthetic organisms and adding this range can be beneficial -it will also help to emphasize the red color in the reef tank."
"Although the table is based on naturally available spectral distribution at specified depths, note that the 400-500nm range is the most required, since it provides the best coloration and fluorescence in corals; whereas, the longer wavelength radiation in 500-700nm range is poorly utilized by marine photosynthetic organisms. At the same time, the human eye is very sensitive to the 520-600nm range and therefore we do not need very much radiation power in that range: even small amounts of illumination will be sufficient for the eye to perceive the tank as brightly lit. Meanwhile, supplementation of 660nm LEDs can be beneficial for shallow-water organisms. At the same time, this wavelength, in combination with the 400-420nm range, will promote correct rendition of the purple color"
This info should be applied to all led builds. Focus most of the build on 400-480nm, and add 500nm-660nm for visual appeal in small amounts, either through the white leds, or separate colored leds. After I tested both warmer leds and separate colored leds on my fixtures, the ones that focus specifically on 480-520 and 660nm tend to look better visually overall when used in small amounts compared to using just warmer whites, or not using these wavelengths at all. 470nm, 490nm, and 660nm actually look white when placed close together.
I don't remember what the spectral plot of the dreamchip was, but it pretty much follows this. I don't remember if it had much in the 470-500 range, and I don't remember if it had a small 660nm peak. Those are the only areas I don't think it covers, otherwise the concept of it is solid.
Lassef
Member
Certainly you need some of the chip´s that is possible to run up to 200 - 250 watt and you also need to use lenses, probably 60 degree.
Depending on how you will plan your reef - you can probably also use some 50 - 125 W chip but for the deeper parts I think you need the 100 - 250 chip´s.
The dream chip is still under development so if you buy that type you must be aware of this. It is constructed to be run with 5 drivers, some people will drive it with fewer and that technique is not perfect just now - but surly - it will be. However the guy´s that drive the dream chip with individual drivers to each channels has not the same problems.
Of cause i prefer the Dream Chip, I was one of the "inventors" of it but the technique is new and as i say before - you must be aware of this.
The dream chip consist of 10 pcs LED 420 nm, 10 pcs LED 430, 20 pcs 445, 20 pcs 455, 20 pcs white 10 000K and 20 pcs white 1600 K. The reasons for this mix (decided more than 3 months ago) was exactly the same as now been published at Advanced Aquarist (mr.wilsons link)
Sincerely Lasse
Lassef
Member
The reason why taking with 16 000 K was to cover the gap 460-490 nm and the 10 000 K was to get some red. Today there is a redish phosphorus available so probably it will come more red in the future.
Sincerely Lasse
I should have said this was my old setup and that I also had a driver in between the power supply and the chip precisely to limit the amperage. We left it at 2.05A and it was running smoothly.
Lasse, thanks of course, this is good info for all the others that would like to use this LED. I'm still fond of it as it gave me the best growth of any lights I've been using up to now.
Currently running the new DreamChip and looking forward to seeing same, if not improved growth. We'll know in a couple of weeks... :dance:
mr.wilson
.Registered Member
I don't interpret the article the same way you do. One could say "the gravy is the most important part of the meatball dinner", but that doesn't mean you don't need the balls
14,000K light has more than enough blue light for corals. Yes the blue portion of the 14,000K spectrum is the most important, but it is not the only vital part.
If you use more than 10% 420nm violet LEDs the tank will look too pink/violet. If you use more than 5% 660nm red LEDs, the tank will look too red/pink. If you use more than 60% blue/royal blue the tank will look dim and you will not see coraline algae, fish pigments & red, blue or purple colours in corals. Green light (555nm) drowns out fluorescence and makes corals look brown.
There is no 660nm red in the dream chip. The dream chip also uses 10,000K whites which are equal to 7,500K in real world numbers, so it is high in green spectrum. The dream chip does not exceed 455nm in blue if I remember correctly.
I'm not trying to criticize the "Dream Chip". I am just providing my feedback from experience using many multichip combinations. People will get caught up in the superficial "blue light" aspect of the article and nothing will be learned.
Keep in mind, the corals we keep are grown in crystal clear waters that are only 6' deep at low tide and 8' deep at high tide. Most tanks are 2-4' deep, so we will experience a similar light refraction to that experienced in nature. We only need to go slightly bluer than the sun (14,000k) to match the natural environment. The study is focused on corals in nature, nit corals grown in aquariums that are only 24" deep.
mr.wilson
.Registered Member
I have tried phosphor coating to get red, but it barely shows on the spectrograph. It is more efficient to use 660nm red chips, as they are readily available. They are 28v vs. 36v of the other colours, but they are easily run on another driver channel.
If you want to cover 460-490nm, why not use 480nm blue chips as I have previously suggested? They are an industry standard in reef lighting.
megadeth72
New member
when diving I remember LOTS of corals lower than 6-8' deep, if they were all that shallow who needs scuba gear!
mr.wilson
.Registered Member
I'm not talking about diving trips or the abyss. I'm talking about maricultured coral and the "low hanging fruit" that free divers collect and ship to the hobby. You will not see scuba gear in any coral collection websites.
megadeth72
New member
free divers go much lower than 8' I have zero experience and I snorkeled that deep to see corals
mr.wilson
.Registered Member
It isn't that free divers can't go deeper, it's that they don't need to. 80% of the coral hobby is maricultured stock. They grow their corals in shallow water where they can walk out at low tide to collect them. They make rafts out of styrofoam boxes to get them back to shore. There are no boats, scuba, or heroic free dives as these are all wasted resources.
SPS reefs are exposed to atmospheric air and direct sunlight at low tide. You can't use light refraction studies to select a light for shallow reef corals.
I went snorkelling on an SPS reef in Dahab in the Red Sea, and the I could have collected a broad spectrum of SPS within 4' of the surface. As a matter of fact, the reef touches the shore and is continually advancing and receding to form more shoreline. Atols are formed the same way.
I'm digressing from my point. We need to study which corals we are keeping when looking at raw data on natural reef lighting.
megadeth72
New member
no sps here, dont want them either
cubanazo83
In Memoriam
Lasse i appreciate a lot all your help but i have not been able to find the driver you are telling me i dont know if you have any website. Can you tell me what can happen if i would use the same driver which acabgd is telling me. Thankss
Lassef
Member
That the maricultured corals grows at 6 - 8´deep is no evidence that the 420 - 460 nm not are most important wavelengths- these wavelengths at this depth has the same intensity (and a little bit higher) as they have deeper down. Most of the corals that you have seen near the surface is also able to grown in deeps down to 30´- and that is an evidence that they do not need the wavelengths you are talking about because most of them are gone at these depths.
The fact that you can eat meatbolls in Canada do not make them to be a Canadian dish - they are still a Swedish dish.
Sincerely Lasse
The fact that you can eat meatbolls in Canada do not make them to be a Canadian dish - they are still a Swedish dish.
Sincerely Lasse
mr.wilson
.Registered Member
I have an acrylic bowfront tank that reflects light from the front viewing panel, but not from the back (black) panel. When I tested a Reeftech LED fixture with no optics, the light was 30% stronger 12" off of centre, than it was directly under the LEDs.
I assume you turn off the water flow for your testing. I find 60˚ lenses to be too tight for any application less than 3' deep.
cubanazo83
In Memoriam
Hi thanks for everything. I was looking in the page that you told me but i didnt find anything. It would be really helpful if you can send me the link where the driver is. Thanks a lot
Lassef
Member
This driver ELN-60-27 (P or D) you can find at www.rapidled.com With these drivers you can run 2 pcs of AC-RC type 20 watts chip in a daisy chain (no more or less) Adjust the current to 2000 mA. I think you should have at least 2 over your tank.
The ELN-30 - 15 (D or P) you can find at http://www.powergatellc.com/.
It manage 1 pcs of 20 watts of AC-RC type
Sincerely Lasse
cubanazo83
In Memoriam
Ok let see if i understood. What are you trying to tell me is that with this driver*ELN-60-27 can i put two LED 20W? Thanks again
