Minimalistic multichip DIY LED build
- Thread starter maglofster
- Start date
Lassef
Member
@Fsugmoney and Landsailor
It is difficult to give advice about things you have not tested by yourself, especially in cases where the experience of not so great because not many people have tested the new types of LEDs that have emerged in recent years.
If I were to build a tank today with a depth of 24 inches, I'd probably use lenses on some chip, but also use some chip without lenses. I personally prefer the chip to lower wattage (actually 10 watts) as the choice of lighting will be greater then. If you want the SPS right down to the bottom so would probably be some 50 or 100 watt handy. Maglofster have more experience with these than I have.
@GY2202
For me the issue of UV-chip relatively difficult to determine. It is clear that wavelengths from 400 to 420 nm (where the part, "UV" chip's) are likely to have an impact on the photosynthesis of zooxanthelle but it is very close wavelengths that may be harmful in the long term. I will test with the chip between 400 and 420 nm, but when I do not know. But I will not have many (or strong) and I will make sure I have the opportunity to dim them to get the corals used to these wavelengths. One should not forget that if you take an LED with a wavelength of 420 nm it is all the energy right there - plus or minus 20 nm. If you take a fluorescent Actinic, it is only a small fraction of the energy in these wavelengths.
@ pbradley0. This you manage with help ov lenses (or the choise not to use lenses)
Sincerely Lasse
It is difficult to give advice about things you have not tested by yourself, especially in cases where the experience of not so great because not many people have tested the new types of LEDs that have emerged in recent years.
If I were to build a tank today with a depth of 24 inches, I'd probably use lenses on some chip, but also use some chip without lenses. I personally prefer the chip to lower wattage (actually 10 watts) as the choice of lighting will be greater then. If you want the SPS right down to the bottom so would probably be some 50 or 100 watt handy. Maglofster have more experience with these than I have.
@GY2202
For me the issue of UV-chip relatively difficult to determine. It is clear that wavelengths from 400 to 420 nm (where the part, "UV" chip's) are likely to have an impact on the photosynthesis of zooxanthelle but it is very close wavelengths that may be harmful in the long term. I will test with the chip between 400 and 420 nm, but when I do not know. But I will not have many (or strong) and I will make sure I have the opportunity to dim them to get the corals used to these wavelengths. One should not forget that if you take an LED with a wavelength of 420 nm it is all the energy right there - plus or minus 20 nm. If you take a fluorescent Actinic, it is only a small fraction of the energy in these wavelengths.
@ pbradley0. This you manage with help ov lenses (or the choise not to use lenses)
Sincerely Lasse
maglofster
New member
Exellent point Lasse!
Landsailor
New member
The thing that concerns me about using these chips is the fact that I've never seen any thermal rating curves or thermal conductivity data for the assembled units.
The "well, that looks about right" Thermal Design of most aquarium LED systems bugs the designer side of me.
The "well, that looks about right" Thermal Design of most aquarium LED systems bugs the designer side of me.
Would 3 50w chips with specs of 32-36v 1.7A wired in parallel work with this driverhttp://www.powergatellc.com/mean-well-hlg-150h-36b-power-supply.html
what about 3 10w chips with specs of 9-11v 1A and this driverhttp://www.powergatellc.com/mean-well-lpf-40d-12-power-supply.html
both drivers have adjustable voltage/current and I would like to underdrive the 50w @ 1.4A and the 10w @ 800ma
last question would 1 50w and 1 10w run cool on a heatsink thats 8.5 x 6 inches without a fan
what about 3 10w chips with specs of 9-11v 1A and this driverhttp://www.powergatellc.com/mean-well-lpf-40d-12-power-supply.html
both drivers have adjustable voltage/current and I would like to underdrive the 50w @ 1.4A and the 10w @ 800ma
last question would 1 50w and 1 10w run cool on a heatsink thats 8.5 x 6 inches without a fan
Lassef
Member
@ xssx. Me and an electronics expert has discussed the drivers from Mean Well HLG-150H series. It appears that with the designation B could work well at least a type of "100" Watt. when it is precisely HLG-150H-36B. Most likely, it could serve to 3 50-watt connected in parallel, but then it is important to have the chip of the exact same type. But we are not sure.
As for the so-called 10 watts I would prefer to use the LPF-40D-42 for three in series or LPF-40D-48 for 4 in the series. The latter may also act for 3 in the series but then I often measured a FV of these chips to be between 8.5 - 10 V, it depends on type of chip. Generally speaking, RB have a higher FV.
@Landsailor
Nor has I seen any such figures, but I have 1 year experience in using so-called 10 Watt without any problems. I lie always slightly lower than the maximum current. The maximum current of 1000 mA, I usually use the 900 mA or even 700 mA if I'm not sure of the design thermal capacity. I've never noticed that the installation of individual LEDs on the array is done with bad temisk capacity, on the contrary, it leads away heat pretty well. In the first design I did, I used screws to attach the chip to the heatsink. later I switched over to use the two component thermally conductive adhesives and it has worked well. It's not even that I want to say that this is the best thing to use but what I want is just to show that there are alternatives to the normal 3 watt constructions
Sincerely Lasse
As for the so-called 10 watts I would prefer to use the LPF-40D-42 for three in series or LPF-40D-48 for 4 in the series. The latter may also act for 3 in the series but then I often measured a FV of these chips to be between 8.5 - 10 V, it depends on type of chip. Generally speaking, RB have a higher FV.
@Landsailor
Nor has I seen any such figures, but I have 1 year experience in using so-called 10 Watt without any problems. I lie always slightly lower than the maximum current. The maximum current of 1000 mA, I usually use the 900 mA or even 700 mA if I'm not sure of the design thermal capacity. I've never noticed that the installation of individual LEDs on the array is done with bad temisk capacity, on the contrary, it leads away heat pretty well. In the first design I did, I used screws to attach the chip to the heatsink. later I switched over to use the two component thermally conductive adhesives and it has worked well. It's not even that I want to say that this is the best thing to use but what I want is just to show that there are alternatives to the normal 3 watt constructions
Sincerely Lasse
Landsailor
New member
Tack, Lasse!
I received a reply from "Alan" at AC-RC in regards to the 50W Super Actinic:
The heatsink material I will be using has 31.7 square inches of surface area per inch of length, so a 12" piece would provide more than enough cooling with no fans required.
I am definitely leaning towards the multiple, smaller (10-20W) LEDs instead of a larger one or two units.
I received a reply from "Alan" at AC-RC in regards to the 50W Super Actinic:
The heatsink material I will be using has 31.7 square inches of surface area per inch of length, so a 12" piece would provide more than enough cooling with no fans required.
I am definitely leaning towards the multiple, smaller (10-20W) LEDs instead of a larger one or two units.
Lassef
Member
kttran_2005
New member
Hi Lesse,
For pretty much the same price, would it be better to use meanwell eln-60-48P series instead of LPF-40D-48 series for 10W LEDs? I know the current in 60-48P is higher but....
Thanks,
Ken
For pretty much the same price, would it be better to use meanwell eln-60-48P series instead of LPF-40D-48 series for 10W LEDs? I know the current in 60-48P is higher but....
Thanks,
Ken
Lassef
Member
Probably - turn down the current to 900 mA or lesser and you maybe can run up to 5 "10 watts" in serie. Lower mA -> lower FV.
I run 6 "10 Watt" with 900 mA on a driver which has LED operatin voltage up to 54 V (not any RB - they have higher FV - up to 9,5 - 10 V at 900 mA in the chip I use)
Sincerely Lasse
kttran_2005
New member
That is exact number 6 of 10 wat that I'm going to setup. However all of my LEDs are the same type 20000k super actinic blue.
Lassef
Member
I use this driver - expansive but good. I do not know if you can get in USA. I do not know the FV of your chip - I have one but not tested it.
Sincerely Lasse
kttran_2005
New member
I am buying meanwell 60-48p and the LEDs is this http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/view...475197ffffa38d?itemId=270927199097&cmd=VIDESC . By the way, do you use a resistor and fuse to protect the LEDs? If so what are they?
Thanks,
Ken
Thanks,
Ken
Lassef
Member
i have the same LED and runninng it at 700 mA in the moment. I measured the voltage today and its about 9 V. If you run it att 900 mA I should guess that you will get a FV just about 10 V. It means that you probably only will manage max 4 of this chip connected in a serie.
I alway run my chip on constant current and connect them in a serie så I do not use anything for protection.
Sincerely Lasse
I alway run my chip on constant current and connect them in a serie så I do not use anything for protection.
Sincerely Lasse
What to do, what to do....? I'm preparing my materials list for my new 150G build (72x18) 28" deep. I was considering purchasing 75 3Watts, but now I'm wondering if this multichip design is more cost effective (and better at penetrating). I plan on keeping mainly softies, but wouldn't mind having the option to add an SPS or two down the road. Can someone suggest some combinations and sources that would work well on my 150? Many thanks!
Hi, what do you guys think of this; i have a 30 gallon tanh that's 20x18x20 and i was planning on doing 2x20w actinic hybrids with 60deg optics, 1x20w 7000k in the middle without optics and 10x3w mix of royal blue and blue on the outside. I think that combination would give almost all the spectrums i need. Would this be good for growing even sps or do you guys have something better?
Lassef
Member
@ InDashMP3: Passing that question further to Maglofster. Its deep and I do not know if "50 watts" is penetrating down all the way. That 100 watts with lens will do that - that I know but the tank is rather narrow so I do not really know what to recommend.
@ evil4g63: It is a set that in my taste, maybe I should expand with 1 pcs 20 Watt, but with a temperature at 10-16000 K.
Sincerely Lasse
So what i think you're saying is keep everything as it is and add another 20w that's 10-16k or remove the 7k one for that one? I wanted the lower kelvin one because people where having problems with their reds and it was being solved by switching some cool whites for neutral whites. I'm looking for a 14k look basically.
kttran_2005
New member
Hi Lesse,
I look at the manual of Len-60-48p driver and your driver, they are very closed. I think if I set the current at 700ma, I can run 6x10w LEDs in a series. However, i am not sure because i cant find some voltage range listed in my driver. Here is the detail info. Please let me know if I was wrong or misunderstood.
ELN-60-48p = LEDs operate at 12-48v, over voltage 54-60v, 1.3a, 62.5w
LEDs = 10-12v, 1.0a, 10w (6x10w=60w)
I know your driver had multiple range for the voltages depending on the setting current. Do you know that meanwell-60-48p have this range as well? If not then I can only run 4 leds max.
Thanks
I look at the manual of Len-60-48p driver and your driver, they are very closed. I think if I set the current at 700ma, I can run 6x10w LEDs in a series. However, i am not sure because i cant find some voltage range listed in my driver. Here is the detail info. Please let me know if I was wrong or misunderstood.
ELN-60-48p = LEDs operate at 12-48v, over voltage 54-60v, 1.3a, 62.5w
LEDs = 10-12v, 1.0a, 10w (6x10w=60w)
I know your driver had multiple range for the voltages depending on the setting current. Do you know that meanwell-60-48p have this range as well? If not then I can only run 4 leds max.
Thanks
J'canReefMan
New member
Maglofster, Lassef,
What brand LEDs are you using?
What brand LEDs are you using?
