Minimalistic multichip DIY LED build
- Thread starter maglofster
- Start date
banditpowdercoat
New member
That heatsink just rectangular tubing? I'm trying to figure out what I am gona make my 5' fixture from cheaply. Going to be approx 150w of eBay 20000k chips and prob 36 xt-e royal blues. Heatsinks that size are just too darn expensive
TropTrea
New member
"20 watt (run at 10 W) violett hybrid (420,430,445 and 455 nm)"
Where were you able to find this chip? Is this a 16 Emitter Array 4 at each Wave lenght? Or a 9 Emitter Array?
I realy like this combination of wave lenghts Rather than simply using 410 nm and 454 nm which creates a big gap in the Spectrum between 420 and 444 nm. .
Where were you able to find this chip? Is this a 16 Emitter Array 4 at each Wave lenght? Or a 9 Emitter Array?
I realy like this combination of wave lenghts Rather than simply using 410 nm and 454 nm which creates a big gap in the Spectrum between 420 and 444 nm. .
Lassef
Member
I´m sorry - I did not write the right configuration - the chip has no 455 nm - only 420, 430 and 445 nm - I checked it up just now . Its a 9 array chip and its name is 20W Violet Blue Hybrid Multichip
Sincerely Lasse
Here are some better pics of the multichips as promised. I hope these aren't deemed as commercial in nature, as I am only trying to illustrate how 400w of LED can replace 1200w of metal halide and T5. I didn't post any shots that show livestock to keep it within the RC guidelines.
The multichips provide the same PAR as the outgoing 250w MH (300 in the centre and 280 at the outer edges using the 120˚ lenses with the fixtures 2' above the water surface. The 90˚ lenses provide 400 PAR at the centre and 200 at the outer margins (18" out from centre).
The 20K multichips are a lot bluer than the 14k Phoenix, and even the generic 20k MH we had in some fixtures, so the PAR is likely higher with the LEDs considering the limitations of quantum meters and blue light.
The MH fixtures were heavy, extremely hot, and expensive to maintain. The new LEDs look sharp and give the same shadowing/shimmer as the MH. Water temperatures are way down and corals look much nicer.
Here's a shot of the old metal halides which served us well for the past 9 months.
Here is the same angle with the LEDs. You can see how the LEDs focus the light in the tank, rather than on the floors, walls and ceiling. The LEDs also provide an awesome light show on the ceilingThe PAR at the top rim of the tank was 200 with the MH and only 10 with the multichips, so algae growth is greatly reduced on the glass, yet the corals along the outer margins still get 200 PAR.
Hi Mr. Wilson.
What's the dimentions of this tank?
banditpowdercoat
New member
Are these chips avail to buy yet and where would I source them? Have a 5' 24"x24" tank, I guess 3 would be needed for good coverage? I like the Single Point light source better than a bunch of 3-5W led's spread out over whole tank. Aesthetic reasons
TropTrea
New member
Yes this is very impressive.
My big question of Mr. Wilson is how do you keep humidity under control with all that surfave area on your tanks. Right now it is my biggest battle.
The biggest thing is overhead space here that allows the multichips to work better than many smaller chips. I only have about 3' total clearance from thewater durface to the ceiling. Therefore the lights must be considerably lower which causes a chain reaction. Lower lights mean wider lenses or more light sources. then add to that the fact my tanks are all at least 24" tall the light penetration comes into play.
I realy like your total set up now we need pictures of your filter room to mavel at.
If I only had that kind of space.
My big question of Mr. Wilson is how do you keep humidity under control with all that surfave area on your tanks. Right now it is my biggest battle.
The biggest thing is overhead space here that allows the multichips to work better than many smaller chips. I only have about 3' total clearance from thewater durface to the ceiling. Therefore the lights must be considerably lower which causes a chain reaction. Lower lights mean wider lenses or more light sources. then add to that the fact my tanks are all at least 24" tall the light penetration comes into play.
I realy like your total set up now we need pictures of your filter room to mavel at.
If I only had that kind of space.
one of my 50W dream chips burnt out I didnt see that it seperated from the heat sink :facepalm:
all the supplier has is 100w dream chips but I think 100W is too much for my tank. presently have a 10000K actinic mix chip in it's place
can I rum a 100W chip on 50W driver?
BTW this is 5 months worth of growth with the 50W Dream chip
all the supplier has is 100w dream chips but I think 100W is too much for my tank. presently have a 10000K actinic mix chip in it's place
can I rum a 100W chip on 50W driver?
BTW this is 5 months worth of growth with the 50W Dream chip
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TropTrea
New member
You have two choices wider lenses for one and the other option is having more less powerful light sources. With the tank being 30" deep I dought the many single chips would give you enough light penetration for going that route. I would look at going with 6 to 8 multi chip cannos it were mine.
TropTrea
New member
Yes you can run a 100 watt chip at 50 watts provided you properly match the current on the driver to roughly 1/2 of the maximium for the 100 watt chip.
Hey pdfrogman,...ya know I just seen a guy sell 3 50w DC on the "For Sale" forum. He said he bought them in the group buy, and then decided his build was beyond his ability. Try a little searching,...might be some more out there,sold them cheap to, wish I would have seen them earlier...just a thought
