Minimalistic multichip DIY LED build

100W LED for a 40G ?

100W LED for a 40G ?

I have 40G corner tank (none bow front) with a depth of 18". I was thinking of doing a 100W 20k center LED with 2x50W royal blue LEDs on the side. All LEDs will have 90° opticts installed. Please let me know if I am over doing the lighting. I am going to have them suspended in mid-air with heatsink attatched.
Also I plan to go "topless":eek2: with no canopy.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
 
DrawnToBeaches said:
Not a guess it's actually in the specs, my 50w is made with 50x2.5 watt diodes well worth $80 for me
Click to expand...

I never questioned whether or not the Epistars do or do not have 2.5w capable diodes, I just wasn't aware that the epiled's didn't have. I can't find any info that states they don't. Can you point me to that info because I was considering over-driving them just to see what they look like. I do know that at 100w(36v x 2800ma) my chips run very cool, barely warm to the touch, so I imagine they can handle quite a bit more current.
 
jtrasap said:
I never questioned whether or not the Epistars do or do not have 2.5w capable diodes, I just wasn't aware that the epiled's didn't have. I can't find any info that states they don't. Can you point me to that info because I was considering over-driving them just to see what they look like. I do know that at 100w(36v x 2800ma) my chips run very cool, barely warm to the touch, so I imagine they can handle quite a bit more current.
Click to expand...

It's not about brand, but rather how the LED is constructed. The older 30-38 mil specification has a maximum current of 350 mA. The newer 42-45 mil specification has in reality a maximum current of 700 mA. Compare 10 watt and 20 watt chip. Both of these have 9 LED (3 parallel strings of three LEDs). 10 watts belonging to 40 mil specification or less and may take up to 350 mA (3 * 350 mA = 1050 mA). 20 watts comply 42-45 mil specification and can take 700 mA max (3 * 700mA = 2100 mA). Both Epileds and Epistar has 42 mil LED and higher. When you look and compare different chip, you should know which LED that is the basis of design and its specification.

Sincerely Lasse
 
Lassef said:
It's not about brand, but rather how the LED is constructed. The older 30-38 mil specification has a maximum current of 350 mA. The newer 42-45 mil specification has in reality a maximum current of 700 mA. Compare 10 watt and 20 watt chip. Both of these have 9 LED (3 parallel strings of three LEDs). 10 watts belonging to 40 mil specification or less and may take up to 350 mA (3 * 350 mA = 1050 mA). 20 watts comply 42-45 mil specification and can take 700 mA max (3 * 700mA = 2100 mA). Both Epileds and Epistar has 42 mil LED and higher. When you look and compare different chip, you should know which LED that is the basis of design and its specification.

Sincerely Lasse
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info Lasse, I assumed as much, I was just questioning the validity of DrawnToBeaches' statement that "the cheaper cannot be driven over 100w because it has 100x1w diodes, the epistar in question has 100x2.5w diodes and can be run at much higher power" referring to the Epiled's as "cheaper" which in terms of price they deffinitely are.

I get the feeling that these are one and the same chip being produced under the same architecture, on the same equipment...the only difference being the brand and the huge difference in price.
 
Epiled and Epistar are from Taiwan and Epicon is based at Hongkong as I understand. I do not know if its possible to run the Epicon 45 mil LED in higher currents than 350 mA. For Epiled and Epistar 45 mil*45 mil LED its possible as I know.

Sincerely Lasse
 
kahkah said:
I think I might pull the trigger soon. I'm really digging the look and can't beat the price. Now I just have to figure out how to make a housing to give it a orphek dif / Ecoxotic cannon pedant look.

I seen a DIY where the person used PVC tubes to get the look but that just doesn't seem safe
Click to expand...

Dont knock it man, it works! Can't argue with results. lol I tried metal ducting before the PVC but it just never looked right. And remember that ecoxotic cannon is just a plastic housing too...
 
NEReef said:
Dont knock it man, it works! Can't argue with results. lol I tried metal ducting before the PVC but it just never looked right. And remember that ecoxotic cannon is just a plastic housing too...
Click to expand...

That awesome if it works, I just was thinking about the heat that can be put out. If you have had no problems that might be what I'll end up doing if i go for a pendant look
 
DrawnToBeaches said:
This led
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=280863191147

And this led
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=220926012078&index=1&nav=SEARCH&nid=81429904281
Are not the same beast and I'm not talking just In color temp, send them an email and ask for more info on that led and I'm certain it isnt 45ml. And can't be driven over that 100w regardless of it being cool to the touch
Click to expand...

It states 'Epicon from Taiwan/45 mil' in the item specifics section of the ebay listing.
 
From digging around I get the feeling that these are built by numerous contractors in multiple factories and purchased and resold under the Epistar, Epicon, and Epiled names. After contacting a few people I was told that the 100w LED's whether Epistar, epicon, or Epiled should not be driven at 7000ma but that they are available in a 250w and a 300w version which could be. I inquired on pricing of the 250 and 300w and I'm waiting back for a reply from a couple people.
 
90 gal

90 gal

I was thinking about using 4 50 watt lights 2 white and 2 blue on a 90 gallon verses 2 100 watt lights so I can adjst the colors. Will that be enough light and are the 50w strong enough to get to the bottom? Also do you know if I can use a 100 watt driver to run to 50 watt lights?

Thanks

Paul
 
So is this normal? The heatsink never got even body temp, it felt like cold aluminum the whole time, and this is not due to heat buildup, this has been off for hours and was dead cold until I plugged it in seconds before I started recording this video. It started smelling like burning ABS within about 10-15 seconds.

<embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf" flashvars="file=http%3A%2F%2Fvid18.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb124%2FJoelEspinoza%2F0613121126.mp4">

This is the 2100mA 20 watt 420-422nm chip off ebay, being driven at 2000mA and 15 volts. It is also 2 of the Luxeon chips being driven at 1000mA.
 
That's normal Joel, my chips put out a lot of heat at the front. I just stuck the back of my hand in front of one of the chips for just a few seconds and I now smell the wonderful aroma of burnt hair...:lol: They've been running for a couple weeks now no problems. If I touch the heat sink on the back of the chip it is barely warm to the touch.
 
Yea, I ran it all day yesterday without a problem, I am probably overthinking this, but I was considering making a mineral oil filled cover for the chip.

Basically I would cut a 3 sided glass box, that is sealed with silicone, then put it over the LED chip and silicone it to the heatsink, so it would be completely sealed except a tiny hole, then fill it up with mineral oil and seal the last little hole.
 
joelespinoza said:
Yea, I ran it all day yesterday without a problem, I am probably overthinking this, but I was considering making a mineral oil filled cover for the chip.

Basically I would cut a 3 sided glass box, that is sealed with silicone, then put it over the LED chip and silicone it to the heatsink, so it would be completely sealed except a tiny hole, then fill it up with mineral oil and seal the last little hole.
Click to expand...

Cool, kind of like the old mineral oil cooled PC. I wonder what it will do to the light output.
 
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