Minimalistic multichip DIY LED build

dkerns06 said:
I wouldn't, it's made to be mounted a few inches away from a processor. Also it's passive liquid cooling, there's no pump. If you want something with a pump that's all in one there's the thermaltake bigwater, if not thermaltake makes all the parts for custom systems.
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Actually there is an integrated pump in the Corsair's. I have a H80 in my current gaming PC. But I wouldn't do any modifications to it, like extending the tubes or so.

Also the tubes are very rigid and it's hard to position the "cooling plate" if you don't lock it down against a fixed surface, for instance a motherboard.
 
007Bond said:
Maglofster,
What is the difference in cooling between the v8 and the unit you are using?
The v8 is 6.22 inches tall, yours is 2.2 inches tall. I only have 10 inches from the top of my hood to the top of water. The v8 does not appear to have a fan where the GTX has three. What are the pros & cons on these two? Thanks---Rick
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Look in the middle, there is a fan (the black thing). The pros are basically just the smaller footprint when it comes to surface area. Cons is that it's higher and that it's only rated to about 180W.
 
dkerns06 said:
I wouldn't, it's made to be mounted a few inches away from a processor. Also it's passive liquid cooling, there's no pump. If you want something with a pump that's all in one there's the thermaltake bigwater, if not thermaltake makes all the parts for custom systems.
Click to expand...

Thanks I'll look it up.
 
dkerns06 said:
Maybe you could give me some advice. I need to replace my HQI bulb soon but I just found this thread and it seems like I could easily retrofit one of these into my current pendant. I have a 54 gallon corner shaped tank and a 250w lumenbright pendant hanging over it. I would like to see about putting in a chip that would match the 14000k bulb in the pendant. So im thinking with these multichip panels I could get a 100w panel and connect to a dimmable driver(in case its to bright), and shouldnt need optics being that it will be in a big reflector anyway. What parts do you think I should buy? I would rather spend the $60 for a new bulb on retrofitting my current pendant.

I found this panel: http://www.ebay.com/itm/100W-Cool-W...271?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cc319e66f

and one of these drivers: http://www.ebay.com/itm/85-265VAC-1...359?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item337111454f

http://www.ebay.com/itm/100W-IP67-W...302?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c247ce596
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Looks like it would be perfect. What about integrating cooling into the pendant? can you fit a VGA cooler above the reflector just and having just the multichip down in the reflector?
 
maglofster said:
As I am from Sweden and also a (sometimes) cheap bastard I installed the drivers and timers etc inside an IKEA Antonious wire basket ($2.50) and then put the VGA coolers on the underside of it and just hung it up (the drivers are 40 cm's from the surface so they are safe and dry. As I have sort of an open top canopy on top of the tank you don't se the setup anyway and everything is very well ventilated.

My friend Lasse (a very smart reefer) pointed out to med that the fans blowing dry/hot air downwards the surface will help with cooling due to the extra evaporation, just like any fan system. :)

Anyway, I'll try to sort out some pictures later today.

Wire basket, http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/10177606/
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LOL. I was referring to the layout or the position of your Multi LED panels to get the color and coverage in your tank.
 
That is just a link I pulled off google for an example. And all liquid coolers need circulator pumps. They don't work like heat pipes do.

You can buy all the parts separate and custom design your own. So yes you could put the radiator anywhere you want. Just the farther away you go keep bumping up the size of the lines or buy a larger pump. As long as you keep it closed you don't need to worry about head height.
 
Looks like it would be perfect. What about integrating cooling into the pendant? can you fit a VGA cooler above the reflector just and having just the multichip down in the reflector?
Click to expand...
There is actually probably enough room in the pendant to mount a heat sync and fan. There are 2 braces that come down to hold the hqi sockets. I was think i may just cut a hole in the top to mount a fan anyway.
 
dkerns06 said:
There is actually probably enough room in the pendant to mount a heat sync and fan. There are 2 braces that come down to hold the hqi sockets. I was think i may just cut a hole in the top to mount a fan anyway.
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Cool, I actually put an angle grinde to my old pendant. Check out the retrofit in my Elos thread, link in my sig.
 
:thumbsup: Many thanks to the OP for a KILLER thread. Massively subscribed! :thumbsup:

fppf said:
Something like this... would really reduce the size of the tank hood, totally remove the noisy fans...
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Most PC related fans can be replaced by a Noctua fan. Check out Noctua. Two to three times what competing fans cost. But SILENT.

What's 15 extra bucks when you're throwing down hundreds for a killer DIY fixture? Just swap out that noisy stock fan with an undetectable Noctua. Problem solved.
 
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maglofster said:
Look in the middle, there is a fan (the black thing). The pros are basically just the smaller footprint when it comes to surface area. Cons is that it's higher and that it's only rated to about 180W.
Click to expand...

I see the GTX is rated at 250w vs 180w. What does the max wattage indicate when you are talking a 100w multi-chip? How do you translate the max wattage of the cooler to a multi-led?
 
bowfront90 said:
Very excited about this multichip setup! I was considering using 70-80 3W LEDs until I started reading this thread. Now I am considering doing the following.

MY SETUP:
Tanks Dimensions: 72x36x20
LED will be 24 inches from top of aquarium.
LED would replace a 72 inch fixutre with 3x250MH + 4x80T5 = 1070 watt
I have Clams, SPS, LPS, Softy and fish.

Here is what I am planning on doing:

Heatsink:
60x10 vs TWO 25x10 (Heatsinkusa)
Currently leaning towards 2 smaller pieces

LED:
50W Actinic Royal Blue Hybrid LED x 4 (Ebay/led-hk)
10W 455nm Royal Blue LED x 6 (Ebay/luoxiquan)
10W White 15000K 20000K LED x 6 (Ebay/luoxiquan)

Optics: (50W LEDs)
60mm Lens Reflector with Base for 20-100W LED (Ebay/ac-rc)

Adhesive:
Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive

Driver:
HLG-100H-36B x 2 (to control 50W leds) (wattsupply)
ELN-60D-48 x 2 (to control 10W leds) (wattsupply)

Cooling:
Multiple CPU Fans (Newegg)

Controller:
APEX controller

Questions:

Is there anything that would make this build LESS expensive, or MORE efficient (ie, less LEDS, different drivers, etc).

Do you think I need to ADD more LEDS? I would like the entire tank to be covered.

I am also considering having 2 vs one BIG heatsinks. Any ideas?

Thanks everyone for your help!!!!
Click to expand...

Any recs from the pros on this thread???
 
wow i have a feeling my 48 LED order i just did will get old fast and it hasnt even arrived yet..i hate this thread! already has me planning a new light ! when my NEW light isnt even built yet! wish i saw this earlier !
 
007Bond said:
I see the GTX is rated at 250w vs 180w. What does the max wattage indicate when you are talking a 100w multi-chip? How do you translate the max wattage of the cooler to a multi-led?
Click to expand...

Well, the "100W" chips I'm using can actually be driven to 252W. :) So if I want to up the current in the future I can just add a more powerful driver and I don't have to think about the cooling.

We are not quite sure on how to compare the heat output from a CPU with that of a multichip LED. But, I like to overdo it, better to be safe than sorry and so far the LED's are being kept really cool.
 
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