Minimalistic multichip DIY LED build

[Lassef]

Hey guys,

Drivers:

for the 50W chips I am thinking about using the driver below and running the chips is Parallel.

LED Driverhttp://www.ebay.com/itm/85-265VAC-100W-Dimmable-LED-driver-30-36V-3A-/220940289359?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item337111454f

As for the 10W drivers I am thinking about using the Meanwell 48D driver, is this a good driver and how many will I need.

This is all I have right now,

Thanks,

3, you can drive 4pc 10 watts chip on that driver

@ Smity: If you equip your sink with a lid and makes room for a 100mm fan so it blows along the flanges and to the outside, it will probably handle 4 x 20 watt chip. You will need that many I think. I would take two white and two Royal Blue chip and 2 pieces of the proposed Meanwell driver. It is capable to run two 20 watt chip in series. With two white, two RB and dimnings options you can then set the color temperature you want. You can also complement with some Ocean coral white but I do not think its necessary.

@ kentrob11: I use 2/3 white (10 000 - 16 000 K) and 1/3 RB. It give me a pure white impression when I look at the tank from the room. If I look at our window from the outside - its blue

Sincerely Lasse

 

[kentrob11]

Thanks Lasse I was looking at the 120w that you posted a link to and was curious as to the efficiency when compared to the XM-L cree LED's. The cost prompted me to look into it and was wondering...Is there a major efficiency difference here between the 2?

 

[Lassef]

Currently I'm working on a new solution for my RSM 130. Since I have been curious about Cree's XL-M, I have in this solution taken with 5 pieces of XL-M. I run them at 2000 mA, which yields about 6.4 watts. I use 60-degree lenses. At 30 cm (12") in air and under the light pattern, I read about 600 of PAR. Very impressive. I think Cree's XL-M has a better efficiency than multi-chip, but these have the advantage that you can pack the individual LED so tight that you can have a strong effect in a small space. This small area can then be used as a point source of a lens system to give you a powerful beam of light capable of penetrating deeply into the water. It seems that Cree develops the individual LED to get greater power while the the Chinese developing the power of multiple LEDs simultaneously by packing them more tightly.

Perhaps this is the result of different ways to think about the same problem - getting such a strong coherent beam of light as possible.

When I started with multi-chips for more than a year ago, however, it was another reason why. Like you, I am no lover of the blue color but I wanted to get at the blue wavelengths from a biological point of view. I believe that the wavelengths between 420 and 460 nm are important for corals zooxanthelle. Cree's solution was not found in higher Kelvin than about 8000, and by definition contains a light source in higher kelvin more photons in the blue region. I reasoned simply that if I got the LED on the 10000-16000 K, I would get a white light but with plenty of blue wavelengths. it is also why my ratio of 2/3 white and 1/3 RB.

Sincerely Lasse

 

[Smity]

@ Smity: If you equip your sink with a lid and makes room for a 100mm fan so it blows along the flanges and to the outside, it will probably handle 4 x 20 watt chip. You will need that many I think. I would take two white and two Royal Blue chip and 2 pieces of the proposed Meanwell driver. It is capable to run two 20 watt chip in series. With two white, two RB and dimnings options you can then set the color temperature you want. You can also complement with some Ocean coral white but I do not think its necessary.

Sincerely Lasse

Thanks Lasse for your help!

 

[kentrob11]

Makes sense to me...i was looking on Ali-baba and found quite a few 100w chips, including the ones you found and posted links to. I am wondering if maybe a single 100w neutral white and a single 50w hybrid actinic with 60 degree lenses and positioned right next to one another on the same heatsink would give a well blended light source for a deep tank...I ay have to pick up a set to try out. I have a 30x36x30 tank that I would test with...

 

[Lassef]

@ kentrob11: Here is some idea

Sincerely Lasse

 

[lucky_snapper]

I am working on an 8 foot x 2 foot x 32 high 310 gallon reef tank. I would like to use the multi-star LEDs but I have a few questions on how it should be set up. My plan is to be able to keep a mixed reef with some SPS and LPS and fish. I am looking at doing 4 pendants suspended above the tank and hung from the ceiling. I have been kicking around several different configurations and would like some input before I spend the money. I will use several meanwell drivers to power the LEDs and keep it dimable. For color I am trying to keep the 2:1 ratio commonly used with the 3w crees.

First set up.

4 pendants with each pendant consisting of

1 100 watt 20k
2 20 watt royal blue
60 degree optics

Option two

1 100 watt Hybrid
1 20 watt Royal blue
60* optics

 

[Lassef]

20 K is not very blue if you look into the aquarium. Hybrids consist of 2/3 RB and 1/3 white and very blue. I hope I will soon be running my 100 watt hybrid so you can compare between 20 000 K and hybrid. I had hoped this week but I have not had time for it yet. The completion, however, is in the pipeline.

Personally, I would probably use 20 K (100 watts) as a general lighting and complement the with 2-4 Rb (20 watts) to each pendant

Sincerely Lasse

 

[007Bond]

If you start with this and runs it with a Mean Well HLG-320H-48 or similar, you can complement both with whites in higher color temperatures and the Royal Blues. Optionally also red LED. Do you also make the whole construction dimmable, then you can bring out the light picture you want.

Hi Lassef, question. The 120W chip is rated at 37-42V and 3.6-7A. The HLG320-48 is rated at 48V and 6.7A. on a HLG 320 42 it is rated at 42V and 7.65A. Did you recommend the higher voltage driver to stay under the chips max rated current? Also on the Arctic Twin Turbo 6990 it is rated at 400W of cooling. Can you run two 100W chips if you push the chips at their 250W max?
Thanks---Rick

 

[kentrob11]

That arctic twin turbo is pretty slick but if running those two multichips with 60 degree optics, wouldn't you want them as close together as possible for the best blending?

As for Luck Snapper's build, wouldn't he fry everything with a 100w chip and 60 degree optic? That would be some insanely intense light at 32" depth. I think that one thing important to remember is that LED par doesn't seem to equate to that of MH and other forms of lighting.

 

[xssx]

Another resource for chips is http://s.dealextreme.com/search/50w+led+emitter they also have 100 watters, I'll be using 4 50w 20k and 4 10w 445-447 blues with dimmable meanwell drivers

 

[awholelota]

I love dealextreme.com and will be ordering my chips and drivers from them this week. The only issue is that I couldn't find a waterproof 50w driver, so I might do 30w chips instead.

What does everyone think of this setup for my 90g 48x18x24..

3x http://www.dealextreme.com/p/30w-20...c-plant-fish-grow-bulb-dc-32-36v-95820?item=3

4x http://www.dealextreme.com/p/waterp...urrent-source-led-driver-85-265v-42905?item=3

3x http://www.dealextreme.com/p/10w-455nm-180-lumen-blue-9-led-emitter-metal-plate-9-11v-100733

I don't plan on doing any sps in my tank any time soon so I'm hoping 30w chips will be enough.

can I power the 3 10w chips with one 30w driver? Also for the 3 30w chip/driver setup can I use one power cord to connect the drivers?

 

[tahiriqbal]

You may need to look at seller (idmart) on flebay. You will find all sorts of chips and LED drivers from there.

Tahir

 

[Lassef]

I love dealextreme.com and will be ordering my chips and drivers from them this week. The only issue is that I couldn't find a waterproof 50w driver, so I might do 30w chips instead.

What does everyone think of this setup for my 90g 48x18x24..

3x http://www.dealextreme.com/p/30w-20...c-plant-fish-grow-bulb-dc-32-36v-95820?item=3

4x http://www.dealextreme.com/p/waterp...urrent-source-led-driver-85-265v-42905?item=3

3x http://www.dealextreme.com/p/10w-455nm-180-lumen-blue-9-led-emitter-metal-plate-9-11v-100733

I don't plan on doing any sps in my tank any time soon so I'm hoping 30w chips will be enough.

can I power the 3 10w chips with one 30w driver? Also for the 3 30w chip/driver setup can I use one power cord to connect the drivers?

It drives you have selected is not working. First, it gives only 320 mA. Your 30 watt chip needs to have up to 1000 mA (same with your 10 watt chip) for optimal effect. Driver controls between 60-98 V and for the 30 watts you will need that the voltage of 32 - 36 V is within the control range. For 3 pieces of 10 watts in series, you need a drive where 28-34 V is within control range. Your driving controls between 60 and 98 V. You could use 2 x 30 Watt in series but will only get about 20 watts from both together. You need a driver that gives 900 - 1000 mA constant current, and where 28 - 36 V is within the control range.

Sincerely Lasse

 

[Lassef]

If you start with this and runs it with a Mean Well HLG-320H-48 or similar, you can complement both with whites in higher color temperatures and the Royal Blues. Optionally also red LED. Do you also make the whole construction dimmable, then you can bring out the light picture you want.

Hi Lassef, question. The 120W chip is rated at 37-42V and 3.6-7A. The HLG320-48 is rated at 48V and 6.7A. on a HLG 320 42 it is rated at 42V and 7.65A. Did you recommend the higher voltage driver to stay under the chips max rated current? Also on the Arctic Twin Turbo 6990 it is rated at 400W of cooling. Can you run two 100W chips if you push the chips at their 250W max?
Thanks---Rick

Look att the datasheet again. When you run the driver in constant current mode you will have a voltage range in which the driver manage to retain the wanted current. The 120 W chip has a FV between 37 - 42 V (the actual FV depend of the current. If you run at 3,6 A - its the lower wattage and so on)

The HLG-320-48B has the current limit at 6,7 A and a Constant current region within 24-48V - this should work but I have not tested!

Also on the Arctic Twin Turbo 6990 it is rated at 400W of cooling. Can you run two 100W chips if you push the chips at their 250W max?

Probably no - they will give a lot of heat and I´m not sure they will give 100 watts i light radiation. I´m normaly think - a 100 watt in gives 100 wat heat out. But you can run them at a lower current - 5A givs 200 watt or rather close this

Sincerely Lasse

 

[awholelota]

It drives you have selected is not working. First, it gives only 320 mA. Your 30 watt chip needs to have up to 1000 mA (same with your 10 watt chip) for optimal effect. Driver controls between 60-98 V and for the 30 watts you will need that the voltage of 32 - 36 V is within the control range. For 3 pieces of 10 watts in series, you need a drive where 28-34 V is within control range. Your driving controls between 60 and 98 V. You could use 2 x 30 Watt in series but will only get about 20 watts from both together. You need a driver that gives 900 - 1000 mA constant current, and where 28 - 36 V is within the control range.

Sincerely Lasse

Thank you for saving me from wasting my money

will this driver work? http://www.dealextreme.com/p/waterp...tant-current-source-led-driver-100-240v-48280

Also will 3 30w chips be enough for a 24" deep tank?

 

[Lassef]

That arctic twin turbo is pretty slick but if running those two multichips with 60 degree optics, wouldn't you want them as close together as possible for the best blending?

I do not know - they sit tight and if you have the light source is a bit above the surface so the mix is probably good. One may have some different lenses on them, too - it is only to test

As for Luck Snapper's build, wouldn't he fry everything with a 100w chip and 60 degree optic? That would be some insanely intense light at 32" depth. I think that one thing important to remember is that LED par doesn't seem to equate to that of MH and other forms of lighting.

There is a risk and the answer is - make it dimmable.

Sincerely Lasse

 

[Lassef]

Thank you for saving me from wasting my money

will this driver work? http://www.dealextreme.com/p/waterp...tant-current-source-led-driver-100-240v-48280

QUOTE]

Output voltage: DC30~36V - Output current: 1A. Probably it works for 30 watt - but once again - I have not tested so I do not know. For 3 pcs of 10 watts in a serie - it will probably work too. I wrote 28 V but its probably att least 10 V in FV

Also will 3 30w chips be enough for a 24" deep tank?[/

Once again - I think so - you will probaly not manage some SPS at the bottom without lenses. I have a 20" deep tank and use 10 watts without lenses - reading arround 100 - 150 PAR at the bottom.

Sincerely Lasse

 

[epicentyr]

What is the spread of the multi-chip LED without optics? Is it narrow or very wide? Also can anyone comment on AC-RC's drivers? I want to drive twenty 20w lamps on 4-5 dimable circuits. I would rather have the nicer fit and finish of a meanwell setup if there is an appropriate fit.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/85-265VAC-5...986?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3371803a1a

 

[kentrob11]

I do not know - they sit tight and if you have the light source is a bit above the surface so the mix is probably good. One may have some different lenses on them, too - it is only to test

Well, I will most likely have about 24" of height available above the tank to mount these so I guess it will just be a matter of seeing how they blend.