Minimalistic multichip DIY LED build

[007Bond]

In my big tank, I have a total of about 420 watts in theory if you use the max current. I do not so I expect that I have a maximum output of about 340 watts. Theoretical distribution is 10 × 10 16 000 K watts, 3 × 10 20 000 K watts, 10 watts x 10 10 000 K, 13 x 10 Watts RB, 1 x 30 watts 6500 K and 10 x 3 watts Cree RB.

I'm happy with color reproduction in my tank. The attached photos show some of the reproduction of the red colors. The images are not processed in Photoshop.

View attachment 188849 View attachment 188850 View attachment 188851 View attachment 188852 View attachment 188853​

Hi Lassef,
Sorry I didn't post comment sooner on your color/fish. Your color looks great I'm not a fan of the blue look you see in so many tanks. Your fish colors look natural and are sharp and clear!!! The surrounding corals also have good coloring and again I like the clear look, not yellow and not blue. My question is, I know you experimented with your leds to get your end result, but what was the order you added the colors to get the color you liked? Did you add the 10--3W RB Crees after you had the fixture running for awhile? or how did you decide on the leds to use? I could just copy your leds to get that look, but I would like to know how you figure wattage, colors, and quantities.---Rick





Sincerely Lasse

 

[tamthapluc]

@punkalflufen: Could you tell where did you buy the Mean Well LPF-90D-36?

Thank you very much

 

[Punkalflufen]

The price i listed is not including postage, postage was $200, problem with living on the other side of the world... sorry I updated another thread and forgot to update this one.

 

[Punkalflufen]

I got them from PowerGate

 

[d0ughb0y]

I'm using a meanwell eln-60-48D for my 50 watt.

anyone else using eln-60-48d with a 50watt led? can you please post some pictures?

I am thinking of getting a 50w 10,000k white and 50w royal blue from seller led-hk (to really keep it minimalistic) for a 60 cube and thinking of using an eln-60-48d on each led.

the LED spec says 30-34v at 1.5a, and meanwell driver spec says 24-48v LED operation voltage 0-1.3a. and meanwell spec says voltage can be adjusted using svr1 between 43.2 ~ 52.8V.

I am confused by what 24-48v means vs what 43.2-52.8v means.
by varying the voltage between 0-10v on the dimming input, does that vary the current or the voltage?

thanks!

 

[tamthapluc]

I got them from PowerGate

Thanks. They are out of stock now. It must be you :debi:

 

[Lassef]

@ 007Bond: I first did a test module. I did not know how much heat my basic design was completed. The test module consist of one 30-watt chip and three 10 W RB 455 nm.

First design

Second design

My design did this by far and I decided to make each module at 90 watts and then have one of them 10 000 K, 3 pieces of 16 000 K and 3 pieces of RB. 20 000 K was not available at the first order. The only RB was available was 455 nm. I want to have as much variety as possible so my first idée was to control every three combination separately. Had to abandon the idea due to lack of suitable drivers then. So in my head structure is controlled RB and whites separately. Nowadays there are more combinations of multi-chip and if I would do if my design today, I would use as many different chips I could. One of the members of the Swedish marine community has also designed a type of card runs where you can control 6-7 pieces 3 Watt or 2 pieces of 10 or 20 Watt multi chip. His card contains 16 separate drivers where you can have 16 * 2 piece 10-watt, 8 * 2 pieces of 20 watts and control them independently (well almost) of each other. This further increases the possibilities.

I later supplemented with 10 pieces Cree RB just to increase the diversity further. I can if I want to also use these as moonlight.

the LED spec says 30-34v at 1.5a, and meanwell driver spec says 24-48v LED operation voltage 0-1.3a. and meanwell spec says voltage can be adjusted using svr1 between 43.2 ~ 52.8V.

I am confused by what 24-48v means vs what 43.2-52.8v means.
by varying the voltage between 0-10v on the dimming input, does that vary the current or the voltage?

I´ll try to sort this out so it makes sense. First, the chip´s specification.

30-34 V is the the chip´s Forward Voltage at different current strengths. At a minimum, it is 30 V and at most (maximum current) 34 V. FV is the voltages that are needed to diode (LED = Light Emitting Diode) is to conduct and excrete light. 1.5 a is the maximum current that the chip can handle.

The driver´s specification: First, this driver can be used for both constant voltage and constant current. power LED should be driven with a constant current. This means that the driver sends out, say, 1.3 A. Then, it adjust the desired voltage so that everything works. That is, it adjusts the voltage to the chip´s FV. Then suddenly the diode current-carrying and current 1.3 A can go through the diode. The driver keeps the voltages at FV just to provide 1.3 A through the diode.

When you read 24-48 V, it is between these voltages that the driver is able to maintain the constant current of 1.3 A.

I am also confused about what 43.2-52.8 V stands for. The only explanation I have is that it applies when using the driver as a constant voltage source.

There are two main parts in the control of a driver. How do I control the driver and how controls the driver in its turn the chip? First-10V is a way to control the driver, PWM is a another way. Because it is a constant current drive it can not control the chip in its turn with the voltage. Remember - the voltage under the chip´s FV nothing happens - no light.

The driver must therefore control the the chip´s power with variable current or PWM.

Sincerely Lasse

How your driver control the chip I do not know. I believe it is through current adjustment

 

[d0ughb0y]

thanks. that answers my questions.

so for meanwell eln-60-48D, by supplying 0-10v to dimming input, does it alter the output current? I thought it is a constant current source?

likewise for eln-60-48P, by supplying a 10v PWM signal, it simply keeps the output voltage at rated forward voltage and 1.3a but simply alters the duty cycle according to the pwm input?

between the two methods of dimming, is it correct to say PWM is better?

 

[Lassef]

thanks. that answers my questions.

so for meanwell eln-60-48D, by supplying 0-10v to dimming input, does it alter the output current? I thought it is a constant current source?

likewise for eln-60-48P, by supplying a 10v PWM signal, it simply keeps the output voltage at rated forward voltage and 1.3a but simply alters the duty cycle according to the pwm input?

between the two methods of dimming, is it correct to say PWM is better?

I do not know which method D and P use to the chip, Into the driver D is 1-10 V and P is PWM for sure. I have not use any of this drivers but maybe someone that have a D version can tell if it is possible to dim to 0 - because in that case - it probably use PWM

I thought it is a constant current source?

Yea - it is a constant current drive but if it gives 1.3 A att 100 % it maybe gives 0.7 A arround 50%. Still constan current (and hence variable voltage) but in different levels.

PWM to the chip is the best way because you can dim to 0. You can´t normally do that with current regulation.

Sincerely Lasse

 

[kentrob11]

OK...This afternoon I ordered this LED:

http://www.ebay.com[URL="http://www.powergatellc.com/mean-well-hlg-240h-42b-power-supply.html"]/itm/270841470978?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

and this Heatsink cooler:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0052TIRQI/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00

And this driver:

[/URL]

There goes nothing...we'll see how it works!

 

[Punkalflufen]

Thanks. They are out of stock now. It must be you :debi:

It could be:bdaysmile:they were out of stock of a lot of drivers when i was looking but i got close enough to what i was looking for.

Lasse I have read that with very low PWM you can get a flicker, is this true?

 

[Punkalflufen]

OK...This afternoon I ordered this LED:

http://www.ebay.com[URL="http://www.powergatellc.com/mean-well-hlg-240h-42b-power-supply.html"]/itm/270841470978?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

and this Heatsink cooler:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0052TIRQI/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00

And this driver:

[/URL]

There goes nothing...we'll see how it works!

That should work you will have just over 200w of light coming out of the LED when its at 5.72A and over 15k LM :eek2:

the 300w of cooling the heat sink provides should keep it cool and running for a long time.

 

[Lassef]

I've read it also but it's not my experience with the equipment I use. My friend drive´r card has an active component called CAT including a providing PWM signal to the chip. I can go as low as 0.10% to give a faint moonlight ,without I perceive any variations (if I have a steady signal). However, we had big problems with an impure 1-10 V output from my GHL Profilux III ex aquarium computer at first. This cause the light output from the chip to vary. We filter the signal now and hence - the light output is steady.

I also believe that the frequency of the PWM signal does matter if you get flicker or not.

Sincerely Lasse

 

[Lassef]

OK...This afternoon I ordered this LED:

http://www.ebay.com[URL="http://www.powergatellc.com/mean-well-hlg-240h-42b-power-supply.html"]/itm/270841470978?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

and this Heatsink cooler:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0052TIRQI/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00

And this driver:

[/URL]

There goes nothing...we'll see how it works!

Some tips when mounting the chip to the heatsink.

I use this and after installation I'll put pressure at the chip, typically with cable ties - see pictures

View attachment 189199 ​

With larger chip - you need to have something between the cable ties and the chip so the pressure will be on the plastic part of the chip.
Sincerely Lasse

 

[Punkalflufen]

I've read it also but it's not my experience with the equipment I use. My friend drive´r card has an active component called CAT including a providing PWM signal to the chip. I can go as low as 0.10% to give a faint moonlight ,without I perceive any variations (if I have a steady signal). However, we had big problems with an impure 1-10 V output from my GHL Profilux III ex aquarium computer at first. This cause the light output from the chip to vary. We filter the signal now and hence - the light output is steady.

I also believe that the frequency of the PWM signal does matter if you get flicker or not.

Sincerely Lasse

Cool that's good to know. What did you use to filter the signal?

 

[Lassef]

I do not know. I think he solve that with software in his built. type - read the average during x seconds.

Sincerely Lasse

Edit: If, instead of 1-10 V you may use PWM to avoid, most likely, the problem. GHL has a module that can convert normal computer 1 - 10 V to PWM. LED control4passiv without drivers.

 

[kentrob11]

Thanks for the tip Lasse...

SO I was going through stuff from my old tank to get rid of and i remembered I have a reefkeeper lite with ALC so I'm going to upgrade the firmware on that then use that to work through the dimming capabilities on this. My permanent solution will be an actual automation system built by a friend of mine to control all of the LEDs separately....

 

[blesk]

Du any one have any pics of 50w hybrid chip overe there tank please .

 

[GY2202]

Has anyone tried to remove a chip after its been siliconed to the heatsink? I just received my silicon adhesive from ac-rc and now im having a second thought whether to use it or just use arctic silver instead.

The reason why im asking is if i decided to change a particular chip (to a different color or wave length) at a later stage.

 

[Lassef]

I have done that with a coupple of 10 watts chip attached to an aluminium heat sink.. (artic silver adhesive). A little flat screwdiver and a hammer. Use the screwdriver as a wedge between the chip and the heatsink using light hammer blows. The heatsink I have re-used - the chip was broken before. take it carefully.

Sincerely Lasse