faisal629
Coolest Member
Thanks, I would like to play it safe...
Can you recommend dimmable drivers I can use that will work with the Apex(0-10v)?
Minimalistic multichip DIY LED build
- Thread starter maglofster
- Start date
Can you recommend dimmable drivers I can use that will work with the Apex(0-10v)?
TropTrea
New member
Very interestingly I looked up the data sheet referenced in 20 Watt Epistar link above.
Per the Epistar Data Sheet the LED's run at a max of 700 ma and a max of 5 Volts potentialy 3.5 Watts. The Ebay advertisement shows a 9 chip system and claims a max of 2,000MA and 11 Volts which would come out to 22 Watts. This is feasable if you have three in series and the other three in parrellel. You basicly would then be driving the individual chips at 666MA and less than 3.7 Volts.
But if want to run 4 of these at full power you need to consider the specs of 2,000 MA and 11 Volts. If you ran 4 in series then you need a driver rated at 2,000ma at 44 Volts and 88 Watts. If you ran them in Paralle then you need a driver that runs at 8,000MA at 11 Volts for 88 Watts. If you use a combination you can run at 4,000 MA at 22 Volts for 88 Watts.
I believe the Meanwell HLG 100-24 would be the most ideal for you since it it is dimmable wth a 4,000MA Curent max and a max voltage of 27. It is cappable of dimming on any of three systems, resistance, voltage, or Pulse Width. However dimming is only allowed to 10% rather than 0 unless you follow their diagram and add a relay to the input line.
Per the Epistar Data Sheet the LED's run at a max of 700 ma and a max of 5 Volts potentialy 3.5 Watts. The Ebay advertisement shows a 9 chip system and claims a max of 2,000MA and 11 Volts which would come out to 22 Watts. This is feasable if you have three in series and the other three in parrellel. You basicly would then be driving the individual chips at 666MA and less than 3.7 Volts.
But if want to run 4 of these at full power you need to consider the specs of 2,000 MA and 11 Volts. If you ran 4 in series then you need a driver rated at 2,000ma at 44 Volts and 88 Watts. If you ran them in Paralle then you need a driver that runs at 8,000MA at 11 Volts for 88 Watts. If you use a combination you can run at 4,000 MA at 22 Volts for 88 Watts.
I believe the Meanwell HLG 100-24 would be the most ideal for you since it it is dimmable wth a 4,000MA Curent max and a max voltage of 27. It is cappable of dimming on any of three systems, resistance, voltage, or Pulse Width. However dimming is only allowed to 10% rather than 0 unless you follow their diagram and add a relay to the input line.
faisal629
Coolest Member
Thanks for the reply!! :rollface:
I will be running them in a series NOT parallel. will this work with the Meanwell HLG 100-24?
which driver for the 50 watt chip?
thank you soo much for your help!!
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TropTrea
New member
If they are all running all four in series then you need the HLG 100-48-B with is a dimmable 2 Amp driver.
For your 50 Watt 25 chip array that you put a link to you need a 1.7 Amp Driver capable of 36 Volts 61 Watts. The HLG 60-36-B has a max current adjustment of 1 to 1.7 Amps, and a Voltage peak minimum of 33 and max of 40 Volts with a factory setting of 36 Volt max. considering you want to run these at a max of 50 Watts instead of 61 Watts this would be your best MeanWell Driver for that single 50 Watt array of LED's.
faisal629
Coolest Member
thank you soo much for your help!!:bounce1:
just to clarafy one last time..
50 watt = HLG 60-36-B
4 x 20 watt = HLG 100-48-B
so im good to order?
TropTrea
New member
Yes that is what I would do. Realy the multi Chip arrays are not much different than running many single chips. My only two concerns are cooling 50 watts of LED's is such a small area. and getting an even distribution of light.
miatawnt2b
New member
I am wanting to retro an older hamilton SE175W halide pendant for my 30G cube (18" cube) Do you think a single 50W chip would be adequate for this setup?20k 50W multichip
The issue with retro-ing the pendant is that it's about 8" circle making it hard to do single cree's. If I mount the pendant about 12" off the water surface, what if any optics will I need for an 18" square coverage?
Thanks!
-J
The issue with retro-ing the pendant is that it's about 8" circle making it hard to do single cree's. If I mount the pendant about 12" off the water surface, what if any optics will I need for an 18" square coverage?
Thanks!
-J
miatawnt2b
New member
Lassef
Member
I, by my self, run app 80 W LED on a solid aluminum (no finns) plate (6" x 10" x 0.47 ") with a graphic cooler on top (see # 408 in this tread) - I have 35 degree C (95 F) on that plate in full run. No problems. If you cover the top of your heatsink with a lid and take out two holes in the lid there you can fit two 5" or 6" computer fans. I´m sure that you will manage the temperature on a disent level. I have both constructions with Cree LED and Epistar/Epiled chip and there is no major difference in heat dissipation between them when you are able to measure them ( max 1 two 2 degrees C at the same wattage and same construction of heatsinks).
If you put the 50 W in the middle (with a 60 degree lens) and the 20 watts in a star arround it - you will not have any uneven light distribution
See the pattern from a 60 degree lens here
Sincerely Lasse
Lassef
Member
@ miatawnt2b If I do not look at the costs - only at the best outcome - I should like to prefer one of these: Epistar 50 - Epistar 60. To these my choice of driver should be some that are able to dim. The reason why I prefer these are that blue and white has an even distribution on the chip - compared with the chip from HK-Led. Here is the pattern from a 60 degree lens
The HK-Led solution is probably not a bad solution for that money but white at one side, blue at the other and no ability to dim the driver.
Before yod do anything - be sure that you can fit in a processor or graphic coler in your Hamilton SE175W. Sorry - I do not know what a hamilton SE175W is
Sincerely Lasse
The HK-Led solution is probably not a bad solution for that money but white at one side, blue at the other and no ability to dim the driver.
Before yod do anything - be sure that you can fit in a processor or graphic coler in your Hamilton SE175W. Sorry - I do not know what a hamilton SE175W is
Sincerely Lasse
miatawnt2b
New member
Thanks so much! I actually saw the pattern of the white/blue chip that was split 50/50 and it concerned me. The option you posted is much better as the LED's are dispersed better which would give more even lighting. More expensive, but I think worth it.
I have a question though. Many folks run 14 or 20k halide lighting on their reef. What's the difference between 20k LED and 20k halide?
I have a question though. Many folks run 14 or 20k halide lighting on their reef. What's the difference between 20k LED and 20k halide?
Lassef
Member
Assessing a light pattern after degrees K is difficult. Degrees Kelvin is a complex concept. I usually compare it with a pound of fruit. You know it's a pound, but not if it consists of banana, orange, apple, grapes, a combination of these or anything else that falls within the general term fruit. As for MH, I know that the same K may differ in appearance from one manufacturer to another - my impression is that it is the same with degrees Kelvin and LED. My answer is that it probably differs more between different manufacturers than in general between MH, fluorescent or LED.
Sincerely Lasse
Sincerely Lasse
A Reef Scene
New member
What chips would everybody want to use if the reef tank is 36 inches deep? I was thinking the 100 watt and not running a lens. Would this give me the proper intensity to grow sps near the botton? Right now there are 3 400 watt halids on the tank that is 1300 gallons and 12 feet long. The tank is lit, but no where near the proper amount of light to support sps, unless the coral are right under the bulbs.
sfsuphysics
Active member
3 halides over 12 feet? What sort of reflectors are you using?
A 100W LED with no optics won't come close to to the light output of a 400W MH bulb with a decent reflector (Lumenarc, Lumenmax, etc). Now could you keep SPS alive on the bottom? Probably, they more likely than not would change color as a result though. While LEDs are the hot new toy out there in the reefing world, I wouldn't go completely crazy with them by thinking they can do miraculous feats of brightness.
A Reef Scene
New member
I know the tank needs more light, was thinking about three to four more halids and use the leds as extraI was looking to spotlight the sps areas. The tank is 40 inches from front to back. I was thinking the 400 would over power the 100 watt leds as to not have a stripe effect.
Lassef
Member
You need arround 200 PAR at the bottom to grow SPS in that deep.
The only way I can see to do that is to use a chip based on Epistars LED and using a lens. These "100", watts can run up to 7 A, and thus about 250 watts. I tested a 20 000 K chip and a hybrid chip. the results are here. These tests were made in air - they become a little better in water because water acts as a lens, too. But you can not directly translate a result of 50 cm to 100 cm (19 and 38" respectively ").
By increasing the current from 3 A to 3.5 A, I had an improvement of 11 - 15%. I'm not sure that it reaches 200 PAR of 36" even if you run the chip at 6-7 A, but - I think chances are high to achieve this. Especially if you get a narrower lens.
Due to the small size of the light source with LED, I think it is easier to use lenses to bring the light deeper and more concentrated compared to a more spread source of light as MH and fluorescent lamps. A lens is better than reflectors for just that.
Sincerely Lasse
The only way I can see to do that is to use a chip based on Epistars LED and using a lens. These "100", watts can run up to 7 A, and thus about 250 watts. I tested a 20 000 K chip and a hybrid chip. the results are here. These tests were made in air - they become a little better in water because water acts as a lens, too. But you can not directly translate a result of 50 cm to 100 cm (19 and 38" respectively ").
By increasing the current from 3 A to 3.5 A, I had an improvement of 11 - 15%. I'm not sure that it reaches 200 PAR of 36" even if you run the chip at 6-7 A, but - I think chances are high to achieve this. Especially if you get a narrower lens.
Due to the small size of the light source with LED, I think it is easier to use lenses to bring the light deeper and more concentrated compared to a more spread source of light as MH and fluorescent lamps. A lens is better than reflectors for just that.
Sincerely Lasse
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Lassef
Member
@ Landsailor: I saw your question about CAT drivers in another thread. I have done just this with just that circuit. A reefer here in Sweden has developed a board based on this chip an you are able to run 2 pc of 10 watts att 1000 mA on one CAT driver. Further if you make a parallell conection between two of the CAT´s on his board - you are able to take out 2 A from them and run 2 pc 20 watts LED Chip. He has also developed a board that is able to take 1-10 V from an aquariumcomputer and also a board that has 4 inbuildt timers with ramps. So the answer is - yes it is possible - at least I have done it 
.
What I understand, this is constructed in a similar way and would probably work the same way as my friends constructions.
Sincerely Lasse
.What I understand, this is constructed in a similar way and would probably work the same way as my friends constructions.
Sincerely Lasse
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Hello all. I have been reading through this thread for most of the day today at work and it has me excited to do an LED build for my setup. I don't have a problem doing the DIY setup, but I have some questions if you guys would be kind enough to help. I currently am running a 90g tank (48.5"L x 18.5"W x 25 3/8"H) and am looking to keep a mixed reef of softies, LPS, some SPS down the road and a few clams in my sand bed. (Will be re-doing my aquascape this week into an island pillar look)
I've drawn out the dimensions and plans for my heat sink and fans as I have plenty of parts lying around from PC builds. My question is what would be the best suited amount of light I should keep over my build, and what LEDs/drivers would you recommend for this setup? I came up with a rough idea but am unsure if this would be enough coverage to the sand bed, and what drivers to use.
The idea that I was bouncing around was this setup:
2 x 50w hybrid (30-RB, 20-20,000K) LEDs with 60° lenses (also, is it possible to run these 2 off of 1 driver to minimize the total number of necessary drivers?)
8 x 10w 10K LEDs (4 on each side) with 60° lenses
8 x 10w RB LEDs (3 on each side. 2 in the middle to use as lunar LEDs and have them on a separate dimmer) with 60° lenses
Does this seem like an appropriate amount of coverage and color balance? I am looking to achieve a 12,000-14,000K color. I am open to any and all suggestions and help. Looking forward to hearing your ideas. Thanks for all your help in advance.
I've drawn out the dimensions and plans for my heat sink and fans as I have plenty of parts lying around from PC builds. My question is what would be the best suited amount of light I should keep over my build, and what LEDs/drivers would you recommend for this setup? I came up with a rough idea but am unsure if this would be enough coverage to the sand bed, and what drivers to use.
The idea that I was bouncing around was this setup:
2 x 50w hybrid (30-RB, 20-20,000K) LEDs with 60° lenses (also, is it possible to run these 2 off of 1 driver to minimize the total number of necessary drivers?)
8 x 10w 10K LEDs (4 on each side) with 60° lenses
8 x 10w RB LEDs (3 on each side. 2 in the middle to use as lunar LEDs and have them on a separate dimmer) with 60° lenses
Does this seem like an appropriate amount of coverage and color balance? I am looking to achieve a 12,000-14,000K color. I am open to any and all suggestions and help. Looking forward to hearing your ideas. Thanks for all your help in advance.
Just received my items and need help with the wiring.
Driver:
http://www.powergatellc.com/mean-well-hlg-185h-36b-power-supply.html
Led:
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/50w-3500lm-20000k-cold-white-light-led-emitter-32-36v-100744?item=6
Questions:
1. I'm wiring 4 leds in parallel, so do I put the + of the driver on the + of the first led then another wire on the + of the first led to the second led and so on
2. I'm sure I need a 1.7A quick blow fuse if so how many and does it go between the driver and first led
3. Since I'm screwing the leds to a heatsink do I need thermal grease or paste
4. Do I need to use any resistors
Driver:
http://www.powergatellc.com/mean-well-hlg-185h-36b-power-supply.html
Led:
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/50w-3500lm-20000k-cold-white-light-led-emitter-32-36v-100744?item=6
Questions:
1. I'm wiring 4 leds in parallel, so do I put the + of the driver on the + of the first led then another wire on the + of the first led to the second led and so on
2. I'm sure I need a 1.7A quick blow fuse if so how many and does it go between the driver and first led
3. Since I'm screwing the leds to a heatsink do I need thermal grease or paste
4. Do I need to use any resistors
Lassef
Member
1 plus from driver to plus on every LED - minus from driver to minus on every led
2 You need 4 pc of fuse one to each LED. Take a fast 1.7
3 yes
4 tricky question. You will have - teoretical - if the chip´s is equal - 1.3 A to each chip -I think it will work because max is 1.7 A. But the FV on each chip must be as equal as possible. Its wise to measure the actual current to each chip and if it differ to much (eg the FV differ to much between the chip´s) you have to use resistors to make the FV equal.
Sincerely Lasse
2 You need 4 pc of fuse one to each LED. Take a fast 1.7
3 yes
4 tricky question. You will have - teoretical - if the chip´s is equal - 1.3 A to each chip -I think it will work because max is 1.7 A. But the FV on each chip must be as equal as possible. Its wise to measure the actual current to each chip and if it differ to much (eg the FV differ to much between the chip´s) you have to use resistors to make the FV equal.
Sincerely Lasse
