Minimalistic multichip DIY LED build

@Tickle

If the choice is between different types of multi-chip I would personally prefer to use 10 watt or 20 watt chip. With the Meanwell driver you mention you will not use 50-watt chip completely. They usually need about 1.7 A of current to provide what they should (there is variation but it is usually between 1.7 to 3 A).

But the main reason why I would choose lower effect is that with dimming and variation of color temperature, you get a much better and varied light patterns. Lens or not depends on. I would probably use the lens for some white to give "Hot spots" but not for the blue

With 10 watts, you can use the driver fully and if you set the current to 900 mA, you will be able to have five chips in series per driver. I would also mix different Kelvin - for example, 10 000, 16 000 and 20 000 among the 5 white. Among the 5 blue, I'd try to get different wavelengths such as 420, 445 and 455 nm. With what I know today I'd probably also want to consider instead of 10 watts using 20 watts. They are essentially the 10 Watt, but you can use up to 2 A at them if you wish. With your drivers so it would be possible to use the maximum current (1.3 A) of the driver and then get about about 14 watts from the chips. drawback is then that you can only have 4 pieces in a series but the advantage is that you in the future may replace your drivers and have a much higher effect from your chip.

@ Mikez104: Although in your case I would look at the possibility of using the chip to lower effect in order to achieve a maximum light patterns.

Bcamp: 1) It differ between the different chip´s. Read the descriptions of the current chip.

2) Most likely, but personally I would chose a chip from the same provider you selected the driver from. Their chips are better suited to our needs, even if they are more expensive

@Decadence: See my answer above - you can mix and match however you like. My suggestions above are based on my personal taste but if you prefer two main sources of your light and add the chips with less effect and temperature / wavelengths to get a good light pattern (for you) that's fine. There is no right or wrong, it's just common sense

@ TropTrea: The lenses of multi-chip has a diameter of about 8 cm (3.15 ") compared to approximately 1 cm (0.39") for the lens of 3 watts. This provides a wider beam pattern and not the same risk for spot lighting. A 60 degree lens provides at 50 cm (20 ") a light beam having a base diameter of about 70 cm (27.5").

Sincerely Lasse
 

Thanks for the photos jtrasap. I have similar LED's and a 5 foot tank that is 30" deep... I was a little worried they would not be enough but after seeing that I am a lot happier.

I am still shopping for drivers i have a few local retailers I am in contact with we will see what happens.

I am also still waiting for about 1/2 of the heat sinks for my 20w LED's and that is part of the reason i have not been to rushed to find a new supplier for the drivers.
 
Any recommendations on multi chip watt size for a 72" X 18" X 22" (LXWXH) SPS tank? The chips will be approx. 10" above the water line.

Thanks!
Mark
 
@Tickle

If the choice is between different types of multi-chip I would personally prefer to use 10 watt or 20 watt chip. With the Meanwell driver you mention you will not use 50-watt chip completely. They usually need about 1.7 A of current to provide what they should (there is variation but it is usually between 1.7 to 3 A).

But the main reason why I would choose lower effect is that with dimming and variation of color temperature, you get a much better and varied light patterns. Lens or not depends on. I would probably use the lens for some white to give "Hot spots" but not for the blue

With 10 watts, you can use the driver fully and if you set the current to 900 mA, you will be able to have five chips in series per driver. I would also mix different Kelvin - for example, 10 000, 16 000 and 20 000 among the 5 white. Among the 5 blue, I'd try to get different wavelengths such as 420, 445 and 455 nm. With what I know today I'd probably also want to consider instead of 10 watts using 20 watts. They are essentially the 10 Watt, but you can use up to 2 A at them if you wish. With your drivers so it would be possible to use the maximum current (1.3 A) of the driver and then get about about 14 watts from the chips. drawback is then that you can only have 4 pieces in a series but the advantage is that you in the future may replace your drivers and have a much higher effect from your chip.

@ Mikez104: Although in your case I would look at the possibility of using the chip to lower effect in order to achieve a maximum light patterns.

Bcamp: 1) It differ between the different chip´s. Read the descriptions of the current chip.

2) Most likely, but personally I would chose a chip from the same provider you selected the driver from. Their chips are better suited to our needs, even if they are more expensive

@Decadence: See my answer above - you can mix and match however you like. My suggestions above are based on my personal taste but if you prefer two main sources of your light and add the chips with less effect and temperature / wavelengths to get a good light pattern (for you) that's fine. There is no right or wrong, it's just common sense

@ TropTrea: The lenses of multi-chip has a diameter of about 8 cm (3.15 ") compared to approximately 1 cm (0.39") for the lens of 3 watts. This provides a wider beam pattern and not the same risk for spot lighting. A 60 degree lens provides at 50 cm (20 ") a light beam having a base diameter of about 70 cm (27.5").

Sincerely Lasse

Thanks for the response, I just placed my order of the 10 watt ones and the meanwell drivers, I ordered 2 24" aluminum heatsinks, should I put fans on them or will the passive cooling be enough? all in all i couldnt be happier, 10 10 watt lights 2 drivers and heasinks plus thermal adhesive for under 200 bucks ;)
 
Probably you need fans - but try without. I nomally accept 40 - 43 degree C (104-109 F) at the heatsink.

Sincerely Lasse
 
Ok, well I’m super excited… I just went ahead and ordered my LED’s from the e-bay store where you got yours. I read this entire thread (although I was a little sleepy as the clock went past midnight this morning…), but I just want to make sure everything should work…

I bought:
1 – 3x20w dimmable driver
1 – 5x20w dimmable driver
2 – 14,000k 20w LED panels
3 – Super Actinic 20w LED panels (3 20500k chips and 6 453nm royal blue chips)
3 – Actinic 20w LED panels (3 10,000k chips and 6 453 royal blue chips)

I was going to run the 3 super actinic boards on a timer were they run for maybe 8+/- hours a day, and have the 3 actinic/ 2 white boards come on for 4+/- hours in the middle. Would that give me enough blue… I’m thinking I should add 1 or 2 all actinic boards too? I don’t know… I got super excited and I hope I didn’t pull the trigger too soon!
 
Has anybody run these off an apex or other controller?
If so what drivers are you running?

Nevermind....MeanWell's
 
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Ok, well I'm super excited"¦ I just went ahead and ordered my LED's from the e-bay store where you got yours. I read this entire thread (although I was a little sleepy as the clock went past midnight this morning"¦), but I just want to make sure everything should work"¦

I bought:
1 "“ 3x20w dimmable driver
1 "“ 5x20w dimmable driver
2 "“ 14,000k 20w LED panels
3 "“ Super Actinic 20w LED panels (3 20500k chips and 6 453nm royal blue chips)
3 "“ Actinic 20w LED panels (3 10,000k chips and 6 453 royal blue chips)

I was going to run the 3 super actinic boards on a timer were they run for maybe 8+/- hours a day, and have the 3 actinic/ 2 white boards come on for 4+/- hours in the middle. Would that give me enough blue"¦ I'm thinking I should add 1 or 2 all actinic boards too? I don't know"¦ I got super excited and I hope I didn't pull the trigger too soon!

I hate to quote my own post... but now I'm thinking about heat sinks...
I'm afraid if a fan goes down I'll over heat a single chip, and fry the rest in the series.
I was thinking of getting some of this stock:

http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=6994&step=4&showunits=inches&id=1268&top_cat=60

I was going to mount 4 20w led chips to the bottom of an 18 inch piece. I could then use a dremel tool to cut out opening in the top where I could attach 2-4 of these fans:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835104008

The air would be sucked in through the ends of the square AL stock, and would be vented out via the fans. This way if I lost one fan the others could keep the set up cool (I hope).
This set up would also save me some $$... but would it work?
 
Cooling idea for people with many LED panels who want to hide as much as possible in their basement/outside:

~$60 All aluminum "racing" radiator (should only need 1): http://www.ebay.com/itm/88-00-Civic...Parts_Accessories&hash=item35bc6dff0f&vxp=mtr

~$15 Universal 12v radiator fan (should only need 1): http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-Univeral...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cc6235cc5&vxp=mtr

~$30 Quietone 1200 (296 max gph, 1 should be sufficient for a closed loop system): http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=23814

~$15 Aluminum (1 per LED panel): http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Blue-Al...569?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43b01aaef1

So about $105 + the cost of plumbing + $15 per LED panel. This would certainly not be the easiest setup, but for lots of panels it might be the most cost effective. The ability to place the setup remotely might be benificial for some as well, especially those who already have high heat inside their homes.
 
I hate to quote my own post... but now I'm thinking about heat sinks...
I'm afraid if a fan goes down I'll over heat a single chip, and fry the rest in the series.
I was thinking of getting some of this stock:

http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=6994&step=4&showunits=inches&id=1268&top_cat=60

I was going to mount 4 20w led chips to the bottom of an 18 inch piece. I could then use a dremel tool to cut out opening in the top where I could attach 2-4 of these fans:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835104008

The air would be sucked in through the ends of the square AL stock, and would be vented out via the fans. This way if I lost one fan the others could keep the set up cool (I hope).
This set up would also save me some $$... but would it work?

Look here


Sincerely Lasse
 
Well, shoot!

I found a US shipper for 10W Royal Blue chips, but I didn't notice they were 900mA max current.

My 10K ten watt chips will handle the 1A, but the Royal Blues I just bought from http://www.ebay.com/itm/170831104035?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 are only rated for 900mA. $9 each, including shipping and it arrived in a couple of days. I haven't yet hooked them up, though.

I assume 1A would toast 'em prematurely, so how much difference would running them at 750mA make in their output?
 
Hi jtrasap,

My setup is similiar to yours, except I run 2 100Ws in parallel using 1 driver (so 50Ws each now). It's still pretty bright. My tank is also 30" deep and I'm thinking of adding optics. Wondering if anyone else has any experience with that. For these 100W Leds, I don't know if 60 degrees or 90 degrees is better if hung 6" from water.

How are you powering the fans? Did you cut a regular 12V adapter and hook it up to the 3 pins?

I'll probably be ordering some 90 degree optics this week sometime and give them a try. Without optics they have a 120 degree beam width so I think 90 degrees will tighten it up plenty and give it a little extra punch at the bottom of the tank.

wow... looks way brighter than the halide. Are you going to dim them at all?
-J

I plan on getting some dimmable drivers in the near future and running them through the PWM on my Reef Angel.

I'm so excited to see updates in this thread!

You are only using three of these 100 watt fixtures in a 72x24x30 tank? I have been debating doing a multichip fixture in my 120 (48x24x24) and was thinking about using three 50w bulbs over each half of the tank. Could I get away with only doing one 100w over each half? If so I could add some 3w purples and blues around each of them for a little extra color pop

I don't see why not, as you can see in the pics the 100w multichips are quite a bit brighter than my 250w MH.

Cooling idea for people with many LED panels who want to hide as much as possible in their basement/outside:

~$60 All aluminum "racing" radiator (should only need 1): http://www.ebay.com/itm/88-00-Civic...Parts_Accessories&hash=item35bc6dff0f&vxp=mtr

~$15 Universal 12v radiator fan (should only need 1): http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-Univeral...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cc6235cc5&vxp=mtr

~$30 Quietone 1200 (296 max gph, 1 should be sufficient for a closed loop system): http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=23814

~$15 Aluminum (1 per LED panel): http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Blue-Al...569?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43b01aaef1

So about $105 + the cost of plumbing + $15 per LED panel. This would certainly not be the easiest setup, but for lots of panels it might be the most cost effective. The ability to place the setup remotely might be benificial for some as well, especially those who already have high heat inside their homes.

I was considering doing this Joel, I have an old liquid cooler from one of my past PC builds and was considering modding it to cool my three multichips but I opted for the plain old fan cooled just to make things a bit more simple.
 
I got my lights all mounted up over the weekend.

A few pics:
20120604_155033.jpg

20120604_154604.jpg

20120604_154557.jpg

20120604_154546.jpg

20120604_154452.jpg
 
What's your success been with the set up you did?
I've done some more thinking I was maybe going to pick a 4'x1' piece of AL stock, that way I could mount a 8cm fan to it.
What was the CFM rating of the fan you used? I've found some 8cm fans that pust 30+ CFM... I was thinking 1 fan pushing air down through the 'heat sink'.
Just an FYI I'd have two sections of AL stock with three 20w LEDs spread out over 16'-18'... I'd also have one section of two 20w LEDs spread out over 12'-14'. All three would have one fan in the center.
 
What's your success been with the set up you did?
I've done some more thinking I was maybe going to pick a 4'x1' piece of AL stock, that way I could mount a 8cm fan to it.
What was the CFM rating of the fan you used? I've found some 8cm fans that pust 30+ CFM... I was thinking 1 fan pushing air down through the 'heat sink'.
Just an FYI I'd have two sections of AL stock with three 20w LEDs spread out over 16'-18'... I'd also have one section of two 20w LEDs spread out over 12'-14'. All three would have one fan in the center.

The fans on the coolers that I used are 9.2cm and are pwm controllable so if I want I can use my reef angel with temp probes to control fan speed anywhere from 800-2800rpm and at 2800rpm they are supposed to move up to 54.8cfm.

JTRASAP

Is that a 125g?

It's a 220g, 72"x24"x30".
 
I was considering doing this Joel, I have an old liquid cooler from one of my past PC builds and was considering modding it to cool my three multichips but I opted for the plain old fan cooled just to make things a bit more simple.

Yea, for 3 LED panels that are hidden inside a hood I would definately say air cooling is a way easier choice.

I myself am working on a project making use of some of the best cpu air cooling technology 1997 had to offer. These are 2 coolers off a 200Mhz Pentium Pro 200Mhz processor, as far as I can figure they ran a max of about 15.5 watts. They are sitting next to a ~130 watt stock i7 CPU cooler.

0604122033.jpg


0604122033a.jpg


0604122035.jpg
 
I'm thinking of taking the plunge on these multichips instead of going DIY singular Crees. This is for a 44gal pentagon. I had a complete gameplan for the single chips with 6 channels w/ homebuilt drivers and all for sunrise/sunset, high noon, moonlighting etc. Now I'm thinking of maybe going with only maybe 3 channels. I'm thinking maybe 4 or 5 20w chips. (3) 10,000k or 16,000k and (1) or (2) RB. That way I can run the RB for moonlighting. Anyone have any better suggestions?

My concerns are both spread and intensity. I could do a single 100w but I would have less controllability and it would actually cost quite a bit more as well. Any help is appreciated
 
I'm thinking of taking the plunge on these multichips instead of going DIY singular Crees. This is for a 44gal pentagon. I had a complete gameplan for the single chips with 6 channels w/ homebuilt drivers and all for sunrise/sunset, high noon, moonlighting etc. Now I'm thinking of maybe going with only maybe 3 channels. I'm thinking maybe 4 or 5 20w chips. (3) 10,000k or 16,000k and (1) or (2) RB. That way I can run the RB for moonlighting. Anyone have any better suggestions?

My concerns are both spread and intensity. I could do a single 100w but I would have less controllability and it would actually cost quite a bit more as well. Any help is appreciated

I went with something similar to you only I went with 10 10 watters in hopes to get a better spread . Personally my two pennies is that from what I've read is that even on the lowest settings the rb would be too bright for a moonlight. Although I've just read this my leds won't be here for another 2 weeks

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk 2
 
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