triggers_150
New member
It took 14 days from the time I ordered to the time they arrived at my door. I live in Colorado.
Minimalistic multichip DIY LED build
- Thread starter maglofster
- Start date
Great thread. Thought I had to share my inspiration I got from here.
After doing two builds with cree's to replace part of my T5's, I thought replacing my last 4 x 39 watt T5's with multichips would be nice.
I have modified a 6x39watt T5 ati sunpower. Replaced two T5 with 14 cree xp-g R5 cw and 14 cree xp-e rb, 80 degree lenses.
Now for replacement of the last 4 T5's,
I bought 2x 50 watt epileds 16000K ( max 1500 mA, 30-37 V) and Arctic cooling accelero L2 Plus.
Also 90 degree lenses.
Tried to attach the multichips to the heatsinks with the supplied adhesives...but after two days I can still move the leds a little???
I have meanwell eln 48-60 drivers, so I won't run the leds to full capacity. Probably max 45 watt.
Today I had a testrun with one above my tank (110x70x65 cm).
Decided to go without the lenses, because with the lense I almost had to hold the led against the ceiling to get enough coverage over half of the tank. Without lens it gives a nice coverage at about 6 cm above waterlevel. That is where my current fixture is at.
Now I have to figure a way to combine the two multichips with my 28 cree xp-g and xp-e in a single build...
Best regards, Frode
After doing two builds with cree's to replace part of my T5's, I thought replacing my last 4 x 39 watt T5's with multichips would be nice.
I have modified a 6x39watt T5 ati sunpower. Replaced two T5 with 14 cree xp-g R5 cw and 14 cree xp-e rb, 80 degree lenses.
Now for replacement of the last 4 T5's,
I bought 2x 50 watt epileds 16000K ( max 1500 mA, 30-37 V) and Arctic cooling accelero L2 Plus.
Also 90 degree lenses.
Tried to attach the multichips to the heatsinks with the supplied adhesives...but after two days I can still move the leds a little???
I have meanwell eln 48-60 drivers, so I won't run the leds to full capacity. Probably max 45 watt.
Today I had a testrun with one above my tank (110x70x65 cm).
Decided to go without the lenses, because with the lense I almost had to hold the led against the ceiling to get enough coverage over half of the tank. Without lens it gives a nice coverage at about 6 cm above waterlevel. That is where my current fixture is at.
Now I have to figure a way to combine the two multichips with my 28 cree xp-g and xp-e in a single build...
Best regards, Frode
The adhesive supplied with the Accleror L2 plus is a thermal compound with no good adhesive qualities. What you needs is a thermal adhesive. Arctic silver sells the correct adhesive. Watch out... it's permanent.
Also, do not forget to remove the protective film on the back of the multichip heatsink. I did. Oops!
Ron
Last edited:
Thanks Ron,
So I have a cleaning job ahead...
I orderred Akasa thermal tape. And I did remove the protective film
Gr. Frode
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
tfrizz80
New member
Is 4 of these http://www.ebay.com/itm/221048259708?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 on a 60*30*24 180gal too much? Its 30in deep. I run 2 400watt metal halides right now. I plan on adding more multi chips for the rb and uv and other spectrums. Would i even have to go with the 100 watters? Maybe i could go with 4 50watt multichips. My tank has a single center brace so ive got to go with 2 or 4 multichips. Thanks for any advise.
Not sure given the information you've stated. I'd go with 50W multichips to start off with.
gunlocators
New member
Can anyone recommend how many and what wattage LEDs for a 100g tank
Dimensions is 60" x 20" x 18"
Top of Water line to top of sand bed is roughly 16 1/2 to 17"
Top of inside of my canopy to waterline is 10" I can cut a hole in the top of canopy to achieve a full 10" if needed then trim around those holes where the heatsinks would stick out.
I do have a center brace should I run LEDs over the glass center brace I was thinking min 3 sets of 50w but wondering if that would be a bad idea. Or maybe 2 50w blue and 2 50w whites 1 of each over each section
Also what dimable driver will work with my APEX controller
Looking forward to ording soon just want to be on the right track....
Dimensions is 60" x 20" x 18"
Top of Water line to top of sand bed is roughly 16 1/2 to 17"
Top of inside of my canopy to waterline is 10" I can cut a hole in the top of canopy to achieve a full 10" if needed then trim around those holes where the heatsinks would stick out.
I do have a center brace should I run LEDs over the glass center brace I was thinking min 3 sets of 50w but wondering if that would be a bad idea. Or maybe 2 50w blue and 2 50w whites 1 of each over each section
Also what dimable driver will work with my APEX controller
Looking forward to ording soon just want to be on the right track....
tfrizz80
New member
Ron what other info do you need? I want to be able to keep most sps anywhere in the tank. I have clams and a ritteri anemone. Do you think the 50 W would give me enough penetration? Thanks for your help.
Lassef
Member
Lassef
Member
I'm sorry - I thought I had replied to your post.
You have a fairly shallow tank so you can follow some different strategies here. If you want to have the maximum oflexibility to direct the light exactly as you want it, then a larger number of chips with lower wattage are excellent. If you choose 10 or 20 watt chip, you can mix different Kelvin's and blue wavelengths, and then control them separately. Nor is it certain that you need to wear lenses, however it can be good if you want to guarantee a lot of light on certain points.
You can also use 50 or 60 watt chip and spread them evenly over the surface. Here I think definitely you will not need any lenses because the tank is so shallow. You can also combine, for example by having one piece 50-60 watt chip per half-part (white 16 000 K) and a number of RB of different wavelengths around the main chip.
Find out how your Apex controls its dim function - then you can easily find the appropriate driver. Apex is not here in Europe but I think it uses 0 -10 V control signal. Meanwell, a number that can be used - there are more manufacturers. You should aim for about 100 to 150 watts per half section in the beginning.
Sincerely Lasse
wrxreefer823
New member
WOW. Your workmanship is impeccable. This thread has truly inspired me! Keep up the good work.
How deep from the sandbed to the waterline, or is this barebottom?
tfrizz80
New member
About 27 in to sandbed
For each section I'd start with a 60W hybrid multichip and build around that up to 100W. Remember, that's per section.
tfrizz80
New member
Do you think you could give me an example of a good array around the 60 w . Or how many of what spectrum in one section...
I think lass kindof answered some of my question.
There's a 60W with 10000K and 445nm chips. That's the same multichip panel I use.
I'd suggest using a 60W hybrid and a 50W 16000K for each section. Good for coral growth. Good punch for your depth.
So, it seems eBay seller ac-rc is receptive to a custom 50W panel. I wrote ac-rc stating my interest in a blue custom 50W panel with both 445nm,455nm and UV chips on one 50 or 60W panel. He seemed interested.
I was wondering about a custom 100W multichip panel built this way:
20W:445nm
20W:455nm
20W:UV
20W:10000K
20W:16000K
or
20W:445nm
20W:455nm
10W:UV
25W:10000K
25W:16000K
What do you think?
Ron
I was wondering about a custom 100W multichip panel built this way:
20W:445nm
20W:455nm
20W:UV
20W:10000K
20W:16000K
or
20W:445nm
20W:455nm
10W:UV
25W:10000K
25W:16000K
What do you think?
Ron
