...Then again, the world ends this year so who cares
Just talked about this at work today.
Tony
Minimalistic multichip DIY LED build
- Thread starter maglofster
- Start date
Just talked about this at work today.
Tony
hillscp
Soylent Green is People!!
There will never be lamps to fit such wiring in a distributed situation. The power loss at low voltage (DC in this case) is insane. Line reactance and other issues come into play as well.
Lamps and fixtures will always have some type of CC drivwer built in. As times passes, the drivers will get smaller and more efficient and hopefully more reliable. Then again, the world ends this year so who cares
Lasse said the same thing in a PM
Dang those electrons and their propensity to lose energy unless driven by high voltage
Maybe the new world will have a different physics. :fun4:
If the the Mayans or Nostradamus have a say in it we will be good to go.
Oh Yea...Haven't seen Nat Geo's Doomsday Preppers in awhile were bout 4 months out. Thannnks for the reminder!:lmao:
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
I thought I recalled hearing that they found another calendar that didn't have and end date?
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Myan Elder 1: "Bob, I have worked on this silly calendar and extended it out to the year 2012. Honestly dude, it is the year 650 and Dave is not pulling his weight. I did 1362 years all by myself and I have had enough. Time for a beer!"
Myan Elder 2: "You did good work Bob, I will have a talk with Dave but you know he has been spending a lot of time working on the temple tapestry showing King Pacals space ship. Anyway, the way I see it, 1300 or so years is a long time. Let another generation of elders add to the calendar, we have beer to drink. I mean it is not like somebody is going to forget how to calculate comsmic events, we have been doing it for the better part of 2000 years already and with the new space tools that King Pacal brought it is surely going to get easier as time passes!
Myan Elder 3: "Yeah I mean really, why do all the work at once! Like anybody cares when the calendar ends, we can add to it anytime. Honestly, why are we doing all the work anyway. It is not like King Pacal needs our help, he descended from the heavens in a rocket ship. If he can fly in space, he can work on the calendar."
Myand Elder 2: "Yup, lets knock back a few beers and call it a night"
Myan Elders 1 and 2 (in chorus): "Cheers, long live King Pacal and the Myans"
Myan Elder 3: "Hell yeah, we will be around for ever... BEER!"
Myan Elder 2: "You did good work Bob, I will have a talk with Dave but you know he has been spending a lot of time working on the temple tapestry showing King Pacals space ship. Anyway, the way I see it, 1300 or so years is a long time. Let another generation of elders add to the calendar, we have beer to drink. I mean it is not like somebody is going to forget how to calculate comsmic events, we have been doing it for the better part of 2000 years already and with the new space tools that King Pacal brought it is surely going to get easier as time passes!
Myan Elder 3: "Yeah I mean really, why do all the work at once! Like anybody cares when the calendar ends, we can add to it anytime. Honestly, why are we doing all the work anyway. It is not like King Pacal needs our help, he descended from the heavens in a rocket ship. If he can fly in space, he can work on the calendar."
Myand Elder 2: "Yup, lets knock back a few beers and call it a night"
Myan Elders 1 and 2 (in chorus): "Cheers, long live King Pacal and the Myans"
Myan Elder 3: "Hell yeah, we will be around for ever... BEER!"
:lmao:
F-N hilarious!
I have found that my higher power irons are more useful for pads that are thermally connected to a heat sink.
great looking setup
i have a 155 bow front that i run 3 250w radium in lumen bright reflectors
well one of my ballast went out and i have been wanting to do LED.s like this. what would i need over my tank 3 20w , 3 30w or 3 50w and would i need optics or could they be mounted in the LB reflectors
thanks for any help
i have a 155 bow front that i run 3 250w radium in lumen bright reflectors
well one of my ballast went out and i have been wanting to do LED.s like this. what would i need over my tank 3 20w , 3 30w or 3 50w and would i need optics or could they be mounted in the LB reflectors
thanks for any help
Finally got everything wired. I hope to get these over my tank tomorrow. This is my propeller head bench.
Still gotta wire up the fans and come up with a good way to mount the POT and DC power connectors for the 10V dimmer and 12vfan power supplies.
Lassef
Member
It depends on the light you prefer. One thing my experience has taught me is that you can not compare the 16 000 and 20 000 K between LED and MH. Fault indicated or for any other reason does not matter - the result is at least two different light. 16 000 and 20 000 K of MH is usually considerably bluer than that of the LED with the same K.
If you want to control your lights completely, the solution that I have proposed Noplay180 earlier in this thread may fit for you too.
If it is not so important, I would try to test with one of these and use the following Meanwell Power - HLG-80H-36B. It delivers 2.3 A - and thus about 60-64 W. This chip can operate at higher current - 4.2 A is the max, but I would not go that high. The HLG-100H-36B would provide about 2.65 A, and thus about 90 W. The HLG-120H-36B provides 3.4 A and then about 115 W.
Use lens - 90 degrees if it is in the middle and cool with any of these
I think that you can use your reflectors but they do not give more light (or very little more) to yor tank - the lens is enough.
The drivers are dimable with a pot, 1-10 V or PWM so you can use a aquarium computer to dim your tank.
This is only some suggestions - take the ideas you like and work further on with them.
Sincerely Lasse
Lasse have you ever considered using a peltier(example) too cool the light or making an water cooler?
Sincerely Dan
Norway
Lassef
Member
Yes - i have consider this. A peltier will rise the energy costs and give more heat out to the room (not bad for you and me - but the guy´s in SoCal will not be so happy
)A cooler with heat-pipe is almost as effective as a Peltier element to lower energy costs. If you make a very compact installation with many watts would the peltier systems may be preferable. The same goes for water cooling, I think
Sincerely Lasse
Hi Guys
I need some input, i intend setting up an sps system with these dimensions:
27.5L*19.6W*17.7H
This tank will be focused towards SPS corals. I want to use no more than 150W of light for this system.
I want to use the 10W and 20W Leds as it will be easier for me to setup these LEDS.
Can you please tell me which LEDS i should be getting as i want to have a good balance on colour and growth.
I need some input, i intend setting up an sps system with these dimensions:
27.5L*19.6W*17.7H
This tank will be focused towards SPS corals. I want to use no more than 150W of light for this system.
I want to use the 10W and 20W Leds as it will be easier for me to setup these LEDS.
Can you please tell me which LEDS i should be getting as i want to have a good balance on colour and growth.
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Dan,
I peltier is a sorely inneficient device and the operational cost would easily negate any advantage that the LED has with regard to efficacy compared to MH or T5.
To be clear, an IDEAL thermoelectric junction is maybe 10% as efficient as the IDEAL Carnot device (phase change refrigerator). So a real world refrigerator is maybe 40% efficient and a real world peltier is maybe 5% efficient. As Lasse mention, not only is it not efficient, its byproduct (it uses energy) is MORE heat to the room.
there's a catch. Thermoelectric coolers are not perfect conductors of heat. For every watt that they move from the cold side to the hot side, they must also consume energy, which is also released on the hot side. The measurement for this is referred to as a TEC's coefficient of performance (CoP). The CoP is defined as: "the amount of heat energy being moved divided by the amount of supplied electrical power". For a typical TEC, the coefficient of performance is between 0.4 and 0.7. That means that to move 60 watts from the cold side you will be releasing between 85 and 150 watts from the hot side. That extra 25 to 90 watts works against the efficiency gains made by increasing the temperature of the heatsink, and there is also the issue of producing that wattage. It has to be produced by the PSU with its accompanying efficiency heat loses, and then be removed from inside the hood.
Water cooling although more complex would have a smaller margin as the overall CoP is better with the possible use of just a small pump and larger remote radiator.
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