that sound great i do like a bluer tank. Like that of the radium 20k
Minimalistic multichip DIY LED build
- Thread starter maglofster
- Start date
that sound great i do like a bluer tank. Like that of the radium 20k
Lassef
Member
Then you should definitely try the chip I recommended or this - can also operate with higher current - 3.5 A. It is slightly bluer. Use the HLG-80H-36B or HLG-100H-36B. LPF-90D-36 also acts to this chip.
This chip can not be run at higher power than 1.75 A and LPF-60D-36 is perfect for this chip (provides 1.67 A) It is also somewhat bluer than the 60-watt chip that I mentioned in the last post.
A clean 20 000 K chip is probibly far too white/yellow for your taste - the hybrids are probably better
Sincerely Lasse
So if eficiensy was not the question, will a peltier cool the LED to a very low temp?
DanBeanAnimal
Premium Member
Dan,
If sized properly, a peltier would be suitable for cooling the LED die.
If sized properly, a peltier would be suitable for cooling the LED die.
Lassef
Member
cbonito
New member
BUT...if it fails and they do...you'll have plasma lighting for a few seconds. LOL
Lassef
Member
I have received some questions about how things are going with the "5 channels multichip". Right now it's about 30 interested people from all over the world who want to be on this journey into the more or less unknown. The technical solutions are largely done and the whole thing will become a reality in the very near future. So far it has been an amazing experience to work with different people through forums, memos and e-mails to have this to happen.
What is revolutionary about this chip is that it comes with a small footprint and that it provide five independent channels, where both intensity and current can be regulated individually. This technique can be used in completely different applications by replacing the LED we have in the various channels.
We have chosen that to channel 1 have 20 white LEDs at 10 000K, on Channel 2 have 20 RB 445 nm, on channel 3 have 10 Actinic 420 nm + 10 Actinic 430 nm, on Channel 4, we have 20 RB 455 nm, and the channel 5 additional 20 pieces white at 16 000K
The reason for the choice is two: growth and to be able to watch. The blue is selected considering various "chlorophyll's" absorption peaks. The white to provide additional wavelengths have other biological roles than chlorophyll, and that there should be an okay color rendition. The low intensity of the yellow-green region is chosen to disfavour organisms that use these wavelengths for photosynthesis.
You will be able to control the light the way you want it - during periods when no one looks at the aquarium, use a light combination that promotes growth and in times someone looks at the aquarium you choose a light combination that provides an aesthetic value.
If this test falls out well, for it is still in the pilot stage, I can see a great potenial in other areas where it is of great importance with differentiated light at different times, it's just changing which LEDs to use, ie, using LEDs with other wavelength regions.
Once everything is set, and different people have started to build their applications, we will of course write about this and learn from each other's experiences and skills. If it will be in a thread here on RC or not I do not know. I understand that RC has some policies that are easy to break in such a thread. This is because a build thread about this has to be closely followed by links to other websites and opinions of different products that are identified by name and manufacturer.
This means perhaps that these discussions will take place in a forum that has other rules. This is a pity because I think (for some reason) that we might hold the replacement for metal halide in our hands. At least, in terms of application in biological environments.
Sincerely Lasse
What is revolutionary about this chip is that it comes with a small footprint and that it provide five independent channels, where both intensity and current can be regulated individually. This technique can be used in completely different applications by replacing the LED we have in the various channels.
We have chosen that to channel 1 have 20 white LEDs at 10 000K, on Channel 2 have 20 RB 445 nm, on channel 3 have 10 Actinic 420 nm + 10 Actinic 430 nm, on Channel 4, we have 20 RB 455 nm, and the channel 5 additional 20 pieces white at 16 000K
The reason for the choice is two: growth and to be able to watch. The blue is selected considering various "chlorophyll's" absorption peaks. The white to provide additional wavelengths have other biological roles than chlorophyll, and that there should be an okay color rendition. The low intensity of the yellow-green region is chosen to disfavour organisms that use these wavelengths for photosynthesis.
You will be able to control the light the way you want it - during periods when no one looks at the aquarium, use a light combination that promotes growth and in times someone looks at the aquarium you choose a light combination that provides an aesthetic value.
If this test falls out well, for it is still in the pilot stage, I can see a great potenial in other areas where it is of great importance with differentiated light at different times, it's just changing which LEDs to use, ie, using LEDs with other wavelength regions.
Once everything is set, and different people have started to build their applications, we will of course write about this and learn from each other's experiences and skills. If it will be in a thread here on RC or not I do not know. I understand that RC has some policies that are easy to break in such a thread. This is because a build thread about this has to be closely followed by links to other websites and opinions of different products that are identified by name and manufacturer.
This means perhaps that these discussions will take place in a forum that has other rules. This is a pity because I think (for some reason
) that we might hold the replacement for metal halide in our hands. At least, in terms of application in biological environments. Sincerely Lasse
Lassef
Member
So if eficiensy was not the question, will a peltier cool the LED to a very low temp?
Yes, when I first tested this type of LED I use a peltier element from and old watercooler and just put the LED´s there.
It was rather cold at the backplate
Sincerely Lasse
Lassef
Member
Do I understand rigth - do you have 70 cm * 50 cm * 45 cm = 157 l ?
If this the case I have a suggestion:
2 pcs of white 20 W- 16 000 K. 2 pcs of white - 20 W - 10 000 K, 2 pcs of 10 W - RB - 445 nm, 2 pcs 10 W- RB- 450 nm, 2 pcs 10 W -RB-455 nm and 2 pcs of 20 W Actinic 420 nm with only 1000 mA and therefore only gives 10 W (there is no true 10 watts for 420 nm)
Place them in 3 rows: 1 row blue-white-blue; 2 row blue-white-blue-blue-white-blue; 3 row blue -white-blue. Center each row, 5 - 10 cm appart. Lenses on the white - row 2 - 90 degree, row 1 and 3 - 60 degree. If you choise to use lenses on the blue also - 60 degree.
Drivers - for the white´s 4 in a daisy chain - LPF-90D-48 (1880 mA)
For the blues -2 pcs LPF-40D-42 - (960 mA) 2 daisy chains of four chip each - 1 chain to each driver
This is a suggestion with 1 W white to 1 W blue. You can dim the drivers.
You can find the LED´s here
Sincerely Lasse
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Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
I had to go back about 500 posts to find where I had posted back at the end of last month - that's a lot of posts in 3 weeks!!!
Anyways, I posted this on the "LED Aesthetics" thread
I haven't received any response yet so maybe someone here can help me out. Looking for advice on my comment in the second to last paragraph that I highlighted in bold. Pretty please...
Anyways, I posted this on the "LED Aesthetics" thread
I haven't received any response yet so maybe someone here can help me out. Looking for advice on my comment in the second to last paragraph that I highlighted in bold. Pretty please...
hillscp
Soylent Green is People!!
I have little experience with this so I can only relate what I have done so far. I currently have only one of the three EPISTAR 60W Actinic Blue Hybrid 45mil LED Panels over my tank. Like you one of my halide ballasts went south so I made the switch.
My aquarium: 125 gal - 72" x 18" x 21"
The plan was to put one 60W light over each 24"x18" section. I don't think that is going to be quite enough light for all the SPS I want to put in there. It is brighter than the two 150 DE Phoenix bulbs on the two ends of the tank but not significantly so.
There are two things I am thinking over right now.
- I need more light. I think I'll add another 60W and drive it at 80W like the other three.
- I might add some 420nm LEDs to make the corals pop more
The problem with item 1 is the two plastic braces going over the top of the tank. Dividing the tank surface into four even 18" squares puts two lights two inches inboard from the braces. That will make shadows. If I had it to do over again I might have bought the 100W Hybrids and driven them at 150W. That would give me enough overhead to tune the brightness too.
Im still up in the air about item two. I'm looking for a little feedback from the group regarding the value of 420nm wavelngths and how much to add.
I'm waiting on some parts to arrive to fix a little accident I had. I found a 12V power supply in my junk drawer and wired it to my fans. I blew out two of them before I checked the polarity of the power supply. For some strange reason it was wired backward (positive on the shield negative on the center pin). The fans only cost $3.00 but they need to ship from China. I bought a couple of spares while I was at it.
As for your reflectors. I don't know if they will do you much good. Metal Halide bulbs are not directional like LED's are. None of the commercial fixtures use big reflectors. I bought 90 deg lenses but I think the little oblong reflectors that come with them are more useful than the lenses. I might make some round acrylic disks with my router and use them to cover the LED's to keep them clean. Along the same lines though, the LED's are more of a point source than the Halides so they tend to cast more shadows inside the tank. I think the reflectors on the halides keep the shadows down. On the other hand, the shimmer from the LED is amazing (at the cost of shadows).
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Hi Lasse
Thank you so much for answering me:beer:
Yes i used inches because our American friends dont use metric system:hmm5:
Thanks for the advise. Can you please give me a link to where i could get the drivers?
Dont know if you can get them to ship to you but this was the cheapest place I found Meanwell drivers: Here
Tony
gunlocators
New member
Can anyone help Recommend 60x18x20 budget build
Can anyone help Recommend 60x18x20 budget build
I have a 60x18x20" Tall Tank I may be dreaming here but I have a $400 - $450 LED Build Budget approved by wife today. So I am loking for any recommendations and help with places to get what I need and whats the best LEDs, Sinks, Optics Drivers Ect.
I may be shooting in the dark but I really would like drivers that would work with my apex worse cat I can do as I am doing now with regular drivers just running a simple sunrise sunset power on/off rather than dimmable.
Anyway I do have glass center brace. I am wondering best metod and if it can be done complete withing my budget. My current MH and VHOs need replaced so I need to order these in the next day or so even tonight.
Again I really need the LEDs to be optimaized for coral growth
Any and ALL help is GREATLY Appreciated
Can anyone help Recommend 60x18x20 budget build
I have a 60x18x20" Tall Tank I may be dreaming here but I have a $400 - $450 LED Build Budget approved by wife today. So I am loking for any recommendations and help with places to get what I need and whats the best LEDs, Sinks, Optics Drivers Ect.
I may be shooting in the dark but I really would like drivers that would work with my apex worse cat I can do as I am doing now with regular drivers just running a simple sunrise sunset power on/off rather than dimmable.
Anyway I do have glass center brace. I am wondering best metod and if it can be done complete withing my budget. My current MH and VHOs need replaced so I need to order these in the next day or so even tonight.
Again I really need the LEDs to be optimaized for coral growth
Any and ALL help is GREATLY Appreciated
Sonny n Colleen
New member
Here is the link. The link is missing the "http"
http://www.powergatellc.com/Mean-Well-LPF-90D-48-Power-Supply.html
http://www.powergatellc.com/Mean-Well-LPF-90D-48-Power-Supply.html
accelero fan wiring question. I have this fan that has 4 wires. Red, black, yellow, and blue. For some reason I cannot get it to work. I connect the red to my power supply wire that is black with a white stripe. Black to the black and it will not turn on for the life of me. Help?
Red from fan connect to black with white stripe on power supply
Black from fan connect to the black from the power supply
Red from fan connect to black with white stripe on power supply
Black from fan connect to the black from the power supply
hillscp
Soylent Green is People!!
If you have a multi meter use it to check the polarity of your power supply. I just toasted two of these fans by not being careful. The scavenged power supply I found in the junk drawer had reverse polarity (center pin negative shield positive). You might want to check the voltage too. I found several power supplies marked 12v that were actually much more than that. Bad news is, if you hooked it up backwards it is toast. Red wire is 12v positive black is negative.
