Minimalistic multichip DIY LED build

accelero fan wiring question. I have this fan that has 4 wires. Red, black, yellow, and blue. For some reason I cannot get it to work. I connect the red to my power supply wire that is black with a white stripe. Black to the black and it will not turn on for the life of me. Help?

Red from fan connect to black with white stripe on power supply
Black from fan connect to the black from the power supply

You can plug it in and with your meter check DC voltage. If the leads are connected right the reading will be normal. If its backwards it will read negative voltage.



Tony
 
I had to go back about 500 posts to find where I had posted back at the end of last month - that's a lot of posts in 3 weeks!!!

Anyways, I posted this on the "LED Aesthetics" thread



I haven't received any response yet so maybe someone here can help me out. Looking for advice on my comment in the second to last paragraph that I highlighted in bold. Pretty please...

As for 3 watt chip, I am not the right person to give advice.

However, I have some experience of multi-cips.

The combination that has suited best for me is to use white chips with a light temperature from 10,000 to 16,000 K. When I have used this high Kelvin rating, I have been able to have a distribution of between 1:1 and 2:1 of white : blue.

Nowadays I prefer 1:1 because the 420 and 430 nm come into play. These wavelengths is located right on the edge of what an eye can perceive. We experience this light as very weak - which it certainly is not!

I would set up a rig with 50% of white consisting of evenly spaced 10, 14 and 16 000 K and 50% blue in an even combination of 420, 430, 445 and 453 nm. Thats all.

I assume that you are doing the design dimmable. One or more drivers to the white and the same for the 445-453 group and 420-430 group. Use some type of dimming applications.

The low Kelvin rates, you can avoid - at least IMO.

Do you still want to test them - do it but use a very small number to begin with

Sincerely Lasse
 
I have a 60x18x20" Tall Tank I may be dreaming here but I have a $400 - $450 LED Build Budget approved by wife today. So I am loking for any recommendations and help with places to get what I need and whats the best LEDs, Sinks, Optics Drivers Ect.

I may be shooting in the dark but I really would like drivers that would work with my apex worse cat I can do as I am doing now with regular drivers just running a simple sunrise sunset power on/off rather than dimmable.

Anyway I do have glass center brace. I am wondering best metod and if it can be done complete withing my budget. My current MH and VHOs need replaced so I need to order these in the next day or so even tonight.

Again I really need the LEDs to be optimaized for coral growth

Any and ALL help is GREATLY Appreciated

He may be able to help you with the price of these square tubes.

My suggestion is that you start with 20 pieces of 10-watt multi-chip. 4 pieces of 10 000 K, 4 pieces of 16 000 K, 4 pieces RB 445 nm and 4 RB 453-455 nm, and four pieces Hybrid: Cost - about $ 220. I'd taken 20 watt but then it's not budget anymore. Lenses go away because it's budget - otherwise about $ 240.

5 Pieces driver LPF-40D-48 (840 mA) or ELN-60-48D (adjusted to 950 mA) Both varieties can handle 1-10 V from your Apex. 4 chips in a daisy chain to each driver.

Price about $ 34 each = $ 170. total is now $ 390. In addition, the aluminum tubes (about 3 meter), fans, power supply to the fans, cables, splash guards and some other small things.

The best improvement you can do then is to get lenses especially for the white chips but it's about $ 12 each. Take lenses into account when you place your chip on the heat sinks.

This is just a proposal and the prices are taken here and here

Sincerely Lasse
 
The combination that has suited best for me is to use white chips with a light temperature from 10,000 to 16,000 K. When I have used this high Kelvin rating, I have been able to have a distribution of between 1:1 and 2:1 of white : blue.

Nowadays I prefer 1:1 because the 420 and 430 nm come into play. These wavelengths is located right on the edge of what an eye can perceive. We experience this light as very weak - which it certainly is not!

I would set up a rig with 50% of white consisting of evenly spaced 10, 14 and 16 000 K and 50% blue in an even combination of 420, 430, 445 and 453 nm. Thats all.

I assume that you are doing the design dimmable. One or more drivers to the white and the same for the 445-453 group and 420-430 group. Use some type of dimming applications.

The low Kelvin rates, you can avoid - at least IMO.

Do you still want to test them - do it but use a very small number to begin with

Sincerely Lasse

Thanks much Lasse, I began to think I was getting lost in the mixture of conversations going on...

So if I am going to do an array of 16 multichips, this basically breaks down to 2 of each of the chips you listed about, 10000K, 14000K, 16000K, 420, 430, 445, and 453. This leaves room for 2 additional chips.

What would you suggest to fill the gap, the hybrid chips or a 20000k?

My suggestion is that you start with 20 pieces of 10-watt multi-chip. 4 pieces of 10 000 K, 4 pieces of 16 000 K, 4 pieces RB 445 nm and 4 RB 453-455 nm, and four pieces Hybrid: Cost - about $ 220. I'd taken 20 watt but then it's not budget anymore. Lenses go away because it's budget - otherwise about $ 240.

You just brought up an interesting point for mine. I had not considered whether or not I was going to use lenses. You mention this in the above reply. To which array are you saying the lenses go away, the 10W or 20W?

I could also do 32x 10W chips instead of 16x 20W chips. Which would be better and would one do better with and/or without lenses?
 
just got my leds drivers and lenses (2 50w 10000k) from china faster then the heatsink and thermal addhesive from the USA LOL. Im going to order 2 50w royal blues and dim everyrthing to my liking. I know this has been answered before but this is a huge thread and cant find the answer. Can I wire 2 50w leds to one dimmable driver If so what type or size of driver? Series or parallel circut. Im Just going to manually dim as I do not have a reef controller. If I cant figure it out I will just run 4 drivers.
 
just got my leds drivers and lenses (2 50w 10000k) from china faster then the heatsink and thermal addhesive from the USA LOL. Im going to order 2 50w royal blues and dim everyrthing to my liking. I know this has been answered before but this is a huge thread and cant find the answer. Can I wire 2 50w leds to one dimmable driver If so what type or size of driver? Series or parallel circut. Im Just going to manually dim as I do not have a reef controller. If I cant figure it out I will just run 4 drivers.

yes you can run 2 50w chips off a 100w driver. and im not 100% sure but i think you would be running them in series. someone correct me if im wrong
 
yes you can run 2 50w chips off a 100w driver. and im not 100% sure but i think you would be running them in series. someone correct me if im wrong

No/yes because the driver had to manage 60 -72 V in order to run the constant current you want and I do not know any drivers like that.

@ CanadaChop: Can you post a link to the chip - I may help you but I have to see the specifications.

Sincerely Lasse
 
Lasse - If you had to choose between a 420nm and 430nm to run alongside a 60W 30 30 hybrid which would you choose?
 
Thanks much Lasse, I began to think I was getting lost in the mixture of conversations going on...

So if I am going to do an array of 16 multichips, this basically breaks down to 2 of each of the chips you listed about, 10000K, 14000K, 16000K, 420, 430, 445, and 453. This leaves room for 2 additional chips.

What would you suggest to fill the gap, the hybrid chips or a 20000k?



You just brought up an interesting point for mine. I had not considered whether or not I was going to use lenses. You mention this in the above reply. To which array are you saying the lenses go away, the 10W or 20W?

I could also do 32x 10W chips instead of 16x 20W chips. Which would be better and would one do better with and/or without lenses?

1) Hybrid chip
2) It was my answer to gunlocators and he had a budget around 450 dollars. Both 20 watts and lenses go away with that budget. Maybe hi can take 10 pcs of 20 watt but if he want to have lenses the budget does not cover that. - they cost around 12 $ each. When he has installed his array I think he has to do another negotiation with his wife - by the way - an old Swedish trick :) at least to the white chips. Its difficult to advice because every tank is different and you maybe has to put up an intial idea and than changes it to the better. I choise 10 watts for him because his tank was long and narrow. Shorter an wider - probably 20 watts. The 420 and 430 was also going away - they cost around 40 $ and as I know - only as 20 watts

The 20 watts is nearly the dubble output at the same area but 10 watts give a better distribution - the old question - to the left or to the right :) I have around 50 cm deepht in my tank - 10 watts without lenses give around 120 - 150 in PAR at the bottom. But I think it would be better with lenses in this case.

Sincerely Lasse
 
Lasse - If you had to choose between a 420nm and 430nm to run alongside a 60W 30 30 hybrid which would you choose?

Probably the 420 because it looks like that wavelenght will induce fluorescence best of all wavelenghts but on the other hand 430 - spot on chlorophyll a I think........

Sincerely Lasse
 

This LPF-90D-36 should work in a parallell mode and with a 0 -100K ohm pot. It will be slightly underdriven and you have to connect the chip in parallell mode. + from each chip to plus on the driver; - from each to - on the driver.

Probably will HLG-120H-42B work also and give a little better result (1.45 A to each chip instead for 1.25 A in the LPF case)

This solution requires that the chips are identical. You should also put a fuse at just over 1.5 A in series with each chip. In a parallel solution you divide the current (2.5 A or 2.9 A) in equal shares but would a chip break, there will be 2.5 A (or 2.9 A) to one chip. Your chip has a maximum 1.5 A according to the specification, it will be grilled in that case.

Sincerely Lasse
 
http://www.manhattanreefs.com/forum...-30000k-led-project-my-120-gal-tech-tank.html
i built 2 100w led's for my tank and i was inspired by your thread. since you are using multiple chip led's, what is the result you got in growth of your sps and lps, did you loose any color ?

I have mostly mushroms ans softies. For a long time I had an euphyllia glabrescens that growe really huge in a short time (1 year). With my set up (10 watts chip) in the ratio of 2 white/ 1 RB I have not seen any fad colors. I have only 455 nm RB. My mushroms grow rather good an give good colors. I have run this set up for more than 1.5 years now.

Today - I probably had choisen a ratio of 1:1 and a mix of different wavelenghts in the blue aera (420, 430, 445 and 455) but still have the whites in 10 - 16 000 K.

Sincerely Lasse
 
USB Spectrometer and setup reading.

USB Spectrometer and setup reading.

Just made a reading of my LED setup, with my DIY Spectrometer.
100w 20000k , 15w RB and 15w Blue.
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