Here's the link lassef. Thank you.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/400316620292?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
http://www.ebay.com/itm/400316620292?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
Minimalistic multichip DIY LED build
- Thread starter maglofster
- Start date
Lassef
Member
I do not directly know a way of dim that driver. Probably it could work if you take two of that type of chip and conect them in paralell mode. You will only get around 25 W at each chip and probably a shift in colour. However - I´m not 100 % sure. Probably you can also run 3 pcs of 20 watts in a daisy chain with this driver at 3/4 of their capacity but the FV is just at the limit - so maybe - maybe not. someone else maybe has a solution.
But did you say 7" deep? Why do not test with one first (if you allready has bought it) and without lenses. Have a bit up from the tank.
Sincerely Lasse
But did you say 7" deep? Why do not test with one first (if you allready has bought it) and without lenses. Have a bit up from the tank.
Sincerely Lasse
kuya_cesar
In Memoriam
Lets try it again....
CREE ROYAL BLUE 3W
CREE COOL & WARM WHITE 3W
CREE COOL & WARM WHITE + ROYAL BLUE 3W
ALL GRAPH PUT TOGETHER.
IF THE IMAGES DOES NOW SHOW UP. CLICK HERE.
CREE ROYAL BLUE 3W
CREE COOL & WARM WHITE 3W
CREE COOL & WARM WHITE + ROYAL BLUE 3W
ALL GRAPH PUT TOGETHER.
IF THE IMAGES DOES NOW SHOW UP. CLICK HERE.
mr.wilson
.Registered Member
Light is either reflected or absorbed. It either benefits zooxanthellae or our vision. Corals are capable of photoaclimation and can host either chl a and or chl b along with many other photopigments such as peridinin.
Chl a has a peak absorption peak at 660nm, while 635nm is a peak for chl b. One could argue that both reds could be used, but clearly they only warrant 10% of the multichip. I like a touch of red to show off fish colours and for dawn dusk effects. As the sun reaches the horizon, it shifts to a red colour as the light penetrates the earth's atmosphere, particularly a polluted one
While i'm not bending over backwards to simulate natural reef conditions, it does look pretty damn cool I keep the red light at a low level throughout the day. The driver is 12w out of a 185w multichip and I dim it down to about 4w.With only 10% of the chips dedicated to red, you still have up to 240w available on the rest of the chip if you have a good cooler. The chl a & b absorption rate of 420nm is relatively low in comparison to blue & red light (435, 460, 635 & 660), and light is used throughout the 400-700nm range for photosynthesis. Again, growing corals is easy, making them colourful, and presenting then as such is difficult. You need show & grow spectra and I agree that 420nm is a great one for achieving this. I find the 465nm is more of a windex effect than 480nm. To me, 480nm is closer to green and less "funhouse" or "windex". I like a crisp white look, like many old timers do. I wash out all that blue with 14k white and a touch of red.
I agree, they have great blues & royal blues, but the 7,500 chip is a desk lamp.
kuya_cesar
In Memoriam
Lassef
Member
ReefUrchin
New member
BeanAnimal, let me say first, thanks for the drain writeup way back when. I have been using it since and I owe you a car wash or three, but, as far as LEDs, what in the world are you looking for, lol?
Though this was back a few pages, it seems like I need to ask, at the threat of stiring the pot again and having two ol guys throwing checkers at each other, but.....
If Lasse says (not that his word is law, but, if it does apply..........) blues grow coral, which we want, and RGB tricks our eyes into seeing nice colors, what are YOU looking for? Personally "I" would think that is all there is to it in this case? Seriously and respectfully, tell at least me what specifically are we missing? I ask this because I know you are in depth into things like I am but I dont see whats missing in this instance? I understand what your saying, but, if we have what we need, even though there is not "technically" every single color of the rainbow actually produced, will it make that big of a difference? I also admit I dont like the look of Lasse's tank (sorry Lasse, nothing personal, just too much blue and brown spotting and not mixed enough), I need more of a mix/blend myself.
kuya_cesar
In Memoriam
Yes, I still need to fine tune the scale, but the shape of the curve is correct. Its just fine tuning it where one color actually falls on the correct wavelength.
Also will need to practice to fine tune the technique.
Hello guys,
Has anyone used this type of led (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110941114699)? I am interested in buying this led as I want to give it a try in my sump.
Also I am thinking to use this led driver which is more powerful, I will calculate the power to take on exit 1.9A (http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-24V-3A-...992?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4aafdd0340)
The scope is to test it in some frags and if everything goes well to switch my MH into led. Any kind of info or suggestion it will be highly appreciated.
By the way the specific thread has inspired me a lot. Gongrats to all the involved members for sharing all this info.
Regards,
Tassos
Has anyone used this type of led (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110941114699)? I am interested in buying this led as I want to give it a try in my sump.
Also I am thinking to use this led driver which is more powerful, I will calculate the power to take on exit 1.9A (http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-24V-3A-...992?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4aafdd0340)
The scope is to test it in some frags and if everything goes well to switch my MH into led. Any kind of info or suggestion it will be highly appreciated.
By the way the specific thread has inspired me a lot. Gongrats to all the involved members for sharing all this info.
Regards,
Tassos
This is the the led that i mentioned in my previus post
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110941114699
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110941114699
Lassef
Member
Are you going to write about it in a separate thread? I think there are many, myself included, who would like to share your experience. I myself have ordered a kit for analyzing different spectra. It would be good to collect it's own thread - for in this thread, the information will drown.
Sincerely Lasse
Lassef
Member
I would not use that power solution - it is a constant voltage source and it is very dificult to manage a constant current from. Instead I would use a constant current driver like Meanwell LPF-60D-36 It will give you a steady 1.67 A current in the voltage area of 21.6-36V The chip will be a bit "underdriven". This driver is able to dim - if you do not want to dim LPF-60-36 is suitable. You can also find drivers on E-bay. Look for a constant current driver near (but NOT over) 1.8-1.9 A and a voltage span that include the cihp´s 24.0V-28.8V
I have no experiences with chip´s of that brand.
Sincerely Lasse
Lassef
Member
Hi Lassef, first of all, thanks for the input. Here are a few more thoughts and reasons.
Like you say, 20k-ish is more for human eyes. I am thinking this project has 2 parts. 1 is for growing coral and 2 for human eyes.
1) For coral...... I wanted the most (130%) light needed in the blue spectrum to grow coral properly (with the knowledge we know). I pick 130% as a number/goal because maybe one day I may have a 30" deep tank (180 or 2??). For now, I have a 22" deep tank. Having LEDs give the proper spectrum (compared to a lot of spectrum overlap) I wanted to pinpoint the correct spectrum for coral, again, saying not our eyes. Also, I do not mind using one single chip, it makes it very easy, but, I am thinking of the spread in the tank. I want to make sure everybody gets a good bath of coral growing color. The lower 400nm chips are crazy expensive. If you said preferred spectrum of certain color was in 400nm range, I would have to rethink this project because that would end up being a lot of money to get the light down deep. I know a 100w blue (thats why I mentioned one color also) would punch down to the bottom, but, can the 20w punch to the bottom too with the same effect? Looking at your layout (and it can be whatever, mine was just an example) is one 420nm enough? I can rearrange the LEDs. My diagram is not set in blood
2) Human eyes..... I have seen pictures of 20k light (the cheaper 100w units) which look perfect for me and seem to visually duplicate my tank, looking at the fixtures and color inside the tank on the pictures and mine, and, I am scratching my head. If 20k in our pea colored tanks comes out to a sunlight colour, wouldn't I want a 25k light that has more blue? You suggest a 16k, and, with all due respect, makes me wonder. Now, maybe you have a cleaner tank than I do with less organics floating around in it and see less yellow than I do, so, maybe 16k IS better for you? Even if that is the case, wouldn't 16k promote more algae than say a 20k or even 25k?
Bonus notes: Again, first and most important is to grow coral. If I must always have all blue tank I will. So, tank can be all blue when I am at work for 8 hours of time. When I come home, lights will adjust to my "visual" liking. from 5pm? to ?? That will be at least 12 hours total light, adjusted accordingly. This should be enough light for everybody, correct?
Also, I am scared to death of the disco effect and that white/blue double layered effect, you know, the one lik when your looking at normal objects with 3D glasses for example.
The 20k chips I talk about are the cheap $28 100w chips on ebay. AC-RC chips might have a different K spectrum at 20k.
Also, I repeat many things here, but, I want to make sure Lasse will see same thing in translator and understand me correctly
First a replay to your post 2311. I'm sure Benanimal misunderstood my post which gave rise to his response. It is history now.
I do not often need a translator to read English (not even to read Americans
) but I need a bunch to write First - You have probably already realized that not everyone here agrees with me. And that's lucky - for in that case, I probably wrong
What I'm saying: you need to evaluate by yourself and see if it makes sense.
1. I think that 20 watt with lenses will be enough for 22" and at least up to 25 - 26" It is also in the wavelengths where it is difficult to measure the effect of light (PAR and Lumen are not useful here). In the case of 420 nm, the question is easy because I have not seen any chip stronger than 20 watts of these wavelengths.
Personally, I think that 445 nm is most important - absorbance peak of chlorophyll C is around this wavelength. Maybe 2 pcs of 420/430 to 3 pcs 445 to 3 pcs 455 nm. I think also that you during "growth period" should run the because you get the blue wavelengths over 460 with the white chip’s..
2. I have tested 10 - 20 000 K from AC/RC - around 3 different batches. My impression was that 20 000 K gave a yellowier light than both the 16 000 and 14 000 K did. Then I looked at the light from the side and in the air. Not in the tank. My tank is based on biological principles, but I use ozone regularly so I have no yellow substances (humus) in the water.
I think that the best thing you can do is to bring home a 20 000K chip and compare for yourself if it looks good.
I have no experiences of any discoeffect in my set ups with one exeption. I tested a special rigg with a strong red “center” light over my aquarium. In this case – the small waves at my surface create a reddish skimmer in the water. With mixes of blue and white’s I never have seen this.
Sincerely Lasse
kuya_cesar
In Memoriam
Understood...
Lassef
Member
If you start a new thread - please comeback with the link. If you not start a new thread - just take the discussions here but i could be good to have different spectra collected in its own thread. I did not mean that it was OT
Sincerely Lasse
It should be in the mail right now. I will wire it up and see what it looks like over my main tank. I don't have water in the frag tank yet.
Just wired it up real quick to see...... bright! But not so 20000k. More 11000k.
So what now? Order another not so blue and supplement? Let it burn in? I'm thinking 3 blue and 3 RB 3w Crees in a circle around it on a dimmable meanwell?
Brightness..... deff bright. Lit the bottom of my 25" tank like nothing. Without lens. Too spread without it though. The lens holder helped a lot. No really focusing it, more like containing it. Maybe instead of a 90* I will do a 120* if I can find it.
Comments on the blue, RB ring? I kinda need some direction.. 3 of each, or 4 rob and 2 blue?
Edit. Only 4 3w leds..... 2 and 2 blues or 3 and 1?
TropTrea
New member
A little note on thois plots. Dependent on what camera you are using there will be considerably different results. All cameras are not equaly sensative to the same wave lenghts. Very ofter cameras are tuned for flesh tones, with the most sensativity in the 550 to 600 nm range, Landscapes in the 525 nm range, or for color contrast with peaks in sensativity at 490 and 600 nm.
Also even with an accurate instrument if your hitting 100% saturation on the plot chances are you do not have an accurate plot in that area.
there is a reason where accurate light spectrum anylizers cost well into the 5 digits. 15 years ago the one at work costed $32,000.00 plus accessories.
Also even with an accurate instrument if your hitting 100% saturation on the plot chances are you do not have an accurate plot in that area.
there is a reason where accurate light spectrum anylizers cost well into the 5 digits. 15 years ago the one at work costed $32,000.00 plus accessories.
