Minimalistic multichip DIY LED build
- Thread starter maglofster
- Start date
Lassef
Member
You have to put them paralell conected and use one this HLG-320H-36B. To use a 3.3 A fuse in serie with each chip could be wise in this case.
Sincerely Lasse
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As far as canopy goes, not needed. The tank will be behind a wall with only the 1 side for display. As for the lights getting in the way, that is another thing. The tank I had before was a 90G and it was only 24" deep and this one would be 26, so reaching the bottom will be a challenge without the light fixtures making it harder. I am thinking of having the whole fixture raise on pulleys to allow easy access.
Dennis
Lassef
Member
My bad - I thought you have a 100 W.
I would probably do a ring of 3 watts RB. Start with 4 like a + with the white in the middle. If it is not enough use more and add also blue. Lenses or not lenses - test without first - lower risk of "disco"
Sincerely Lasse
mr.wilson
.Registered Member
I built some multichip fixtures to replace the MH fixtures over the coral tanks at my store. I wanted 20k light to show off coral colours, but didn't want the usual "bait & switch" blue and Fiji purple look some retailers use to make brown corals look colourful. Eventually the customer sees the real thing when they take it home to their lighting.
I ended up with a colour that looks almost identical to the Radion fixture I have set at 20,000K. I would never use this colour mix over my own tank, but many people like the look.
Here's a map of the chip layout...
Here is a picture of the chip dimmed.
Here's a bad iphone photo that makes it look a lot more blue than it really is. I'll try to take a better pic with a real camera tomorrow. The Radion is at the end of the tank.
As you can see, it takes a lot of blue mixed with "16k" to get the look of a true 20k. An earlier version had one row (10%) red and it looked horrible. Red is so dominant it made the whole chip look pink. I had to scrap 16 multichips and start again
I ended up with a colour that looks almost identical to the Radion fixture I have set at 20,000K. I would never use this colour mix over my own tank, but many people like the look.
Here's a map of the chip layout...
Here is a picture of the chip dimmed.
Here's a bad iphone photo that makes it look a lot more blue than it really is. I'll try to take a better pic with a real camera tomorrow. The Radion is at the end of the tank.
As you can see, it takes a lot of blue mixed with "16k" to get the look of a true 20k. An earlier version had one row (10%) red and it looked horrible. Red is so dominant it made the whole chip look pink. I had to scrap 16 multichips and start again
mr.wilson
.Registered Member
I prefer the single source MH/sun look as well. Many people miss the point that you need to raise LEDs 18-24" above the water surface to get good coverage and assure corals aren't bleached. I like having the fixtures high & dry. I don't miss washing lenses every week.
mr.wilson
.Registered Member
Try to keep it low voltage for safety. Use a 36v driver(s).
mr.wilson
.Registered Member
It may be cheaper to sell your multichip and by a new (bluer) one. Adding smaller blue chips can add up, you may have heat issues with that heat sink, and it will require more drivers, wiring and perhaps swearing
It would take a significant number of 3w royal blue chips to get the colour you are seeking.
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
I built some multichip fixtures to replace the MH fixtures over the coral tanks at my store. I wanted 20k light to show off coral colours, but didn't want the usual "bait & switch" blue and Fiji purple look some retailers use to make brown corals look colourful. Eventually the customer sees the real thing when they take it home to their lighting.
I ended up with a colour that looks almost identical to the Radion fixture I have set at 20,000K. I would never use this colour mix over my own tank, but many people like the look.
Here's a map of the chip layout...
Here is a picture of the chip dimmed.
I think you should start a thread about how to DIY your own multichip man. I would like to learn how to do this myself!
Wow
Wow
wow that looks awesome how and where did you get those leds?
Wow
I built some multichip fixtures to replace the MH fixtures over the coral tanks at my store. I wanted 20k light to show off coral colours, but didn't want the usual "bait & switch" blue and Fiji purple look some retailers use to make brown corals look colourful. Eventually the customer sees the real thing when they take it home to their lighting.
I ended up with a colour that looks almost identical to the Radion fixture I have set at 20,000K. I would never use this colour mix over my own tank, but many people like the look.
Here's a map of the chip layout...
Here is a picture of the chip dimmed.
Here's a bad iphone photo that makes it look a lot more blue than it really is. I'll try to take a better pic with a real camera tomorrow. The Radion is at the end of the tank.
As you can see, it takes a lot of blue mixed with "16k" to get the look of a true 20k. An earlier version had one row (10%) red and it looked horrible. Red is so dominant it made the whole chip look pink. I had to scrap 16 multichips and start again
wow that looks awesome how and where did you get those leds?
lookout888
Member
If you are referring to attaching the chip to the heat sink; use something like Arctic Silver Premium Silver Thermal Adhesive . To attach the lens; I used a high temp silicon. Lowes sells one called 3m fire block 136 that is rated for 1380 Deg. F. which is way over kill but why not.
Lassef
Member
You should bolt them to be sure that you get a good fit. Use this (or similar)
I have glued some 100/250 watts chip with good results (here) but then I only run them at 100 watt and I put a pressure on them when I attached them. But you probably will run at the limits of your heat sink and therefore I think you need to use the best possible methods to attach the chips to the sink.
Sincerely Lasse
Lassef
Member
What’s was wrong with this?
lassef said:
probably - and now they are exporting this trick (budget cut) to southern Europemr.wilson said:
mr.wilson said:
This is very interesting because it goes against some of the physics and biological laws. I'm not saying it is not true but the phenomenon cannot be explained in the usual way. In normal fluorescence, it has emitted photon is a longer wavelength (read: lower energy quanta). However as usual, there are exceptions - see below. Wavelengths in the green region has lower energy than in the blue, but higher energy than red wavelengths
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fluorescence said:
However, it should require certain intensity in the reds.
You are probably right but did you observed that I just recommended RB 3 watt they are normally within the wavelength range of 460-470 nm which is the wavelength range of blue taken up mostly by the human eye (reference = Benanimal) Probably he needs 6 - 8 and 470 nm could fit well also if he want a bluer look.
Your chip looks good (however, to blue for my taste). It looks like one of the 20 000 K chip from Orphek.
Next week, I will have access to one for another project I'm involved in - so I will see how it looks like in real life.
Sincerely Lasse
Now I’m run my text through both Google translates and MS words spelling program - and still it looks funny in some parts. Be patient - I’m trying to do my best (and now I hear some voices - We was afraid of that!
)
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one clownfish
Member
Can anyone recommend a white chip to me besides the Cree XP-G or XL-M. I've been using the Rapid Led Cree XP-G R5 Neutral White and Cool White in my fixture for 6 months. I'm NOT happy at all, they are both WAY to yellow for me. I like the look of a crisp clear shallow reef. I already have enough blue so I don't need a multi chip. I only want to swap the NW to start. I'll be running them with a MW-ELN-60-48d. My tank looks yellow with only the whites on.
Please excuse the bad picture of the tank. I'm in the process of adding a different overflow, changing all of my rock work and changing over from a FOWLR. The left of the picture is only with the whites on, no blues. That's the center of the tank but I'm sure you get the idea, it looks like that in person. Not so bad with the blues on but it's still a little bit to blue and yellow for me.
Thanks in advance.
Please excuse the bad picture of the tank. I'm in the process of adding a different overflow, changing all of my rock work and changing over from a FOWLR. The left of the picture is only with the whites on, no blues. That's the center of the tank but I'm sure you get the idea, it looks like that in person. Not so bad with the blues on but it's still a little bit to blue and yellow for me.
Thanks in advance.
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Lassef
Member
Do not tell me - I think I broke 4 thread tap on my first build. Nowadays I use someting called "rödsprit" in swedish (A sort of methylated spirits) as coolant. And 1 turn to the right, 1/2 turn back, 1 turn to the right, 1/2 turn back - and so on. And a lot of patience. And NO cordless drill
Sincerely Lasse
Lassef
Member
Can anyone recommend a white chip to me besides the Cree XP-G or XL-M. I've been using the Rapid Led Cree XP-G R5 Neutral White and Cool White in my fixture for 6 months. I'm NOT happy at all, they are both WAY to yellow for me. I like the look of a crisp clear shallow reef. I already have enough blue so I don't need a multi chip. I only want to swap the NW to start. I'll be running them with a MW-ELN-60-48d. My tank looks yellow with only the whites on, l'll try to get a picture up.
Thanks in advance.
I would test this. You can run 4 in a daisy chain at 1000 mA with your driver. You can also mix in some of these to "take out the yellow". I do not know how this will work - I was not satisfied with the "old" 20 000K
Sincerely Lasse
one clownfish
Member
Use only a 2 flute tap with a tap handle. Buy a good tap, not one from a big box store, there all junk. WD-40 works good for tapping fluid. Go slow and you should be ok. I did almost 400 #4 and broke one tap.
