mr.wilson
.Registered Member
That's handy, and it even works on a MAC. Thanks for posting
Minimalistic multichip DIY LED build
- Thread starter maglofster
- Start date
That's handy, and it even works on a MAC. Thanks for posting
mr.wilson
.Registered Member
You should be cycling the rock/tank in very diffused light on a short photoperiod, otherwise you will get all kinds of diatoms, green slime algae, and hair algae plagues. Once you start the nutrient cycle with algae blooms, it's hard to control.
mr.wilson
.Registered Member
Absolutely. I find shooting from above lakes the light look whiter, while from below, much bluer.
Photo's do however show some visual details that we miss while looking at an animated tank, such as colour separation and light pollution around the tank.
The 20K generic multichip vs. 14k Phoenix comparison shot Tomservo posted is useful. I would rate the 14k Phoenix at 16k when compared to Ushio 14k and premium brands of MH 20K.
Mr Wilson, how do you get Lassef's calculator to calculate after plugging the numbers in? ---Rick
Lassef
Member
It should calculate by itself. Just put in the height from the surface at the upper yellow. The upper red show the cone att the surface
Put in the deep at the lower yellow - the lower red show the cone at your deep.
Changing the upper yellow will also cange the lower red because it calculate with the surface cone
Sincerely Lasse
If you try with the one from the e-mail - just try with this attached here - its a bit different
Put in the deep at the lower yellow - the lower red show the cone at your deep.
Changing the upper yellow will also cange the lower red because it calculate with the surface cone
Sincerely Lasse
If you try with the one from the e-mail - just try with this attached here - its a bit different
mr.wilson
.Registered Member
"enter"
ReefUrchin
New member
Wow, cool, thank you. Hmmm, looks like some optics might be in order me thinks for a 18" wide tank!?
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Lassef
Member
Probably your excell convert my spreadsheet to "." as a decimal separator. In the swedish variant vi use "," - I though it should be the same for you - I was clearly wrong. I have not either taking with the diameter of the lens. To the final cone - ad the diameter in cm. For most multichip = 5 - 6 cm and for 3 watts around 1 cm
Sincerely Lasse
LokiUFgator
New member
So I came across this thread last week in my own planning to use these types of chips over my new tank. It's a 30XH (24L x 12W x 24H), I wanted the height for my seahorses. As such it's not going to have clams or SPS in it, but the do get along nicely with the collection of softies and LPS in their current 20gal. I was thinking to get the penetration that I'd go with 2 20W hybrid chips and a single all blue or all white 20W chip in the center all on one long heatsink. My problem is understanding the drivers to run them. I'd like to think I can get away with just one driver running all 3 chips in series, but my electrical background is weak. Truth be told, the corals only know if enough PAR exists to photosynthesize or not, so dimming and other controls aren't really needed. Looking over driver specs is making my head spin, can anyone help with suggestions and an explanation of why they'd suggest a certain driver? Thank.
Lassef
Member
This driver LPF-90-48 (non-dimable) or LPF-90-48D (dimable) will manage 3 - 4 * 20 watts of this type (there is different 20 watts chip around but this with 9 invidal LED normally runs with that driver regardless of color) It will run at 1.88 A and give about 60 watt (three) or app 80 W (four). Connect them in a daisy chain
Sincerely Lasse
Lassef
Member
Spread 90 degree
No If your height is 6.35 put in that - the cone will be at the surface 12.7 but the lens is 6 cm so the cone will in reality be 18.7 cm at the surface.
I have not calculated with that in the second calculation so you shall add 6 cm at the last read -> 139.7 +6=145.7 cm
Or use this
View attachment ljusbrytning 1.5.xls
Sincerely Lasse
@marspeed: Looks good!
And 100 pages........:celeb1:
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