Minimalistic multichip DIY LED build
- Thread starter maglofster
- Start date
mr.wilson
.Registered Member
The widely accepted standard is 200 PAR at the substrate. Keep in mind, blue light is underestimated by hobby grade (Apogee) quantum meters and many LEDs are significantly blue.
There are also many successful tanks with only 75-100 par at the substrate. Water quality and coral feeding practices can compensate for low intensity. Quality of light is just as important as intensity, so the raw numbers aren't everything.
Figured I would share in this thread. Here are some pictures of my NEW light pendents. What do you think. Thanks for everyone who has posted info in this thread!
Vhot Led you use in each combo and hove big is your tank and vhot is the size of your heatsinks.
lookout888
Member
Here is my build thread http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2193234
25 x 20w leds
5 x 445k
5 x 10k
5 x 12k
5 x 16k
5 x 20k
Each led is going to be on its own driver, No not all leds will be on at one time. I know that that is a lot of light for my tank. The tank is 36'x40'x31'
DetroitReefer
New member
So, I am in the States, and I would like to get the rest of these LED multichips ordered, but china shipping takes like a month. Are there ANY US suppliers? I am willing to pay for expedited shipping. I need them like yesterday.
Also, Can I run the 50W Multichip off the Sure DC drivers? I have 2 AC to DC power supplies at 24V 14.6a. I intended on picking up another 36V AC to DC power supply for just the 50W.
Running 6X 50W over my 180 with 12X 10W Royal blue, and 6X 10W blue. I am running the 3W UV chips for moonlighting.
If anyone knows of a US supplier, I'd be forever in your debt.
Also, Can I run the 50W Multichip off the Sure DC drivers? I have 2 AC to DC power supplies at 24V 14.6a. I intended on picking up another 36V AC to DC power supply for just the 50W.
Running 6X 50W over my 180 with 12X 10W Royal blue, and 6X 10W blue. I am running the 3W UV chips for moonlighting.
If anyone knows of a US supplier, I'd be forever in your debt.
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TropTrea
New member
Yes the par reading are very misleading. Sometimes I wonder why we started referencing them when the quality of light is so different for salt water compared to fresh water, and terestial plants. As an example you put out 30 watts of warm white led and get a much higher par meter reading than with the 30 watts of royal blue leds. Yet when it comes to coral growth the warm white is nearly useless since it puts out most of light in the red spectrum that corals do not use. Simularly the royal blues that the corals love will give you a low reading as the meters are not as sensative to royal blue.
Orochimaru
1 of 3 legendary ninjas
is this really 30KK or a typo?
Please do not link to off site sales
Please do not link to off site sales
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CanadaChop
New member
I got my 50w chips from LED-HK on ebay and hey came in 1 week (faster then the arctic silver i got from Texas) plus free shipping.
Please do not link to off site sales
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Lassef
Member
Fantastic design. I have read through your thread. Impressed!
However, 16 and 20 000 K in these LEDs is not the shade you expect (if you have MH as reference) I would probably replace the 5 white sitting diagonally against your 445 to 5 pieces RB 455-465 nm. Additionally - if you replace 3 of the chips centred to 3 pcs 420 nm, you could get an amazing fluorescence "pop up" during the late evenings.
Once again - a fantastic build
Sincerely Lasse
lookout888
Member
Thank you lesse! I left enough wiring to add one more light to each Pendent. I was going to see how it turned out first before I did that and add whatever I think it needed. I am sure I will not be running any of them at full. As I probably have 15 more then I need. The idea is I can control each Led so i can customize any part of the tank. I was reading about the 420 and may be the one I add. Again thank you for the advice, and please if you have anything else to suggest feel free!
JeffBoyRD
Member
Thanks Lassef. Question though. I was looking at your formulas and wondering how you came up with the "refraction"/angle in the cone diameter formula for the lower number? For instance you are using 40.6 for 120 degree angle, 32 for the 90 degree, etc. Are you somehow using the 1.33 refractive index of 20 degree water? Just wondering. Thanks.
Lassef
Member
Yes - I have used 1:33 as refractive index of water. That's an estimate, because temperature and wavelengths affect the index. The basis for the calculations in water are taken from here.
There is not a scientifically precise tool but I hope it gives a little bit more than just guesswork
Sincerely Lasse
New version from #2481
There is not a scientifically precise tool but I hope it gives a little bit more than just guesswork
Sincerely Lasse
New version from #2481
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lingwendil
Man who sold the world
Lassef said:
Are these readily available yet or did you have them made?
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Lassef
Member
Earlier in this thread this chip was discussed - 5 channel multichip. This discussion resulted in an online development process where people from many countries participate with knowledge and experience. Approximately 70 pieces of this chip is now on the way out across the world for the further development and testing.
If possible, I, and others, will return with the results but it will take a few more weeks
Sincerely Lasse
If possible, I, and others, will return with the results but it will take a few more weeks
Sincerely Lasse
JeffBoyRD
Member
Thanks. Now from what I see, this calculation deals with the outside of the cone of light and its angle from the source point and its refraction in the water and its reflection out of the water. What about the light from the LED that strikes the water perpendicular or with an inflection of 0 degrees from 90 degrees? Will that not still produce the same cone structure? I am by no means a physicist or mathematician, just trying to understand and better prepare. Thanks again.
Lassef
Member
The calculation shows how the water's refractive index makes the cone narrower when it breaks the water surface. The water surface will thus function as a small lens. The calculation is intended for use for point sources with lens (e.g. LEDs).
It's easy to calculate a cone of light in one media of you know the spread angle. This model was developed to calculate how large the cone becomes when it has passed into another media - water.
The model does not account for how much light is reflected and it was not the target either.
Sincerely Lasse
It's easy to calculate a cone of light in one media of you know the spread angle. This model was developed to calculate how large the cone becomes when it has passed into another media - water.
The model does not account for how much light is reflected and it was not the target either.
Sincerely Lasse
