Minimalistic multichip DIY LED build

Lassef said:
@dwolson2: I have few experiences with the "3 watts" LED system with different colours.

Regarding your choice of 30 K chip - I do not know, I've never shopped there. Personally, I would probably prefer two pieces Epistar 60W Actinic Blue Hybrid 45 mil LED. You can run them with 2.1 A up to 4.2 A and then gives from 60 watts to nearly 150 watts. I know that this chip provides a good bluish tint. With those chips, you can start with 60 watts and then increase if it is not good enough. Then you can keep your small LED and try to set up so that you will be satisfied.

Sincerely Lasse
Click to expand...
Thanks! I will go with that one then. If you don't mind, could you let me know which driver to use with them? I am really horrible about picking out drivers. Sorry:headwallblue:

JACOXVIII said:
in the center section it looks like you have all of your white up front and most of the color in the back.
i think you will have a bad color separation from front to back
Click to expand...
Ok, I haven't built the rig yet, I will mix them up a bit so I won't have the separation. Thanks for the input!
 
Well, I wanted one driver for my 3 main LEDs so I would have less bulk, low price and could turn them all down evenly with one pot, but, I am not sure thats the best way to go, yet. If I wanted to step away from the dark side, where would I find the cheapest Mean Well HLG-100-36, or do I want something else to control one 100w chip?
 
Overdosed on led information!!!!

I am wanting to use these on my 125 build but will only have about a foot worth of canopy. Do you think this is possible? I was thinking an aray of 20 watters. Any info would be a great help. I am a beginer but can solder :) The tank is the normal 6' glass tank.
 
dwolson2 said:
Thanks! I will go with that one then. If you don't mind, could you let me know which driver to use with them? I am really horrible about picking out drivers. Sorry:headwallblue:


Ok, I haven't built the rig yet, I will mix them up a bit so I won't have the separation. Thanks for the input!
Click to expand...

This driver will give you 2.5 A and around 90 W as max. Dimmable. Mean Well LPF-90D-36, this will give you 3.4 A -> around 120 W HLG-120H-36B and this 4.2 A and 150 W HLG-150H-36B. Both dimable

You have to choise a fixed current, the dimable is not internal current adjustable.

Sincerely Lasse
 
i have a couple of meanwell HLG-185-48-B which has a rating of 48V 3.9A. I used that to power my DIY 3w CREE led panel but has taken them down and I'm currently using AIs.

i was looking at some multichip LEDs to supplement my AIs. is there a multichip LED that can be used pn my 48V 3.9A driver. These drivers are just collecting dust and it would be great to have a multichip that can fit right in.
 
Hi Guys

I read these comments and they were interesting.I am pleased to face with this.

However,the size of my aquarium is
Length 180 CM
width 50 CM
Height 70 CM

I decided to buy These LEDs for my tank and I want use 90degree lens for them.

Three EPISTAR 50W 16000K High power 800LM
Two EPISTAR 20W 10000K
Two EPISTAR 16W Greenhouse Fast Grow Led Panel
Three EPISTAR 20W 430nm UV LED Panel
Three EPISTAR 20W 445nm Royal Blue 45mil LED Panel for Aquarium
Three EPISTAR New 40mil 10W 450nm Royal Blue LED Panel for Aquarium
and
62mm 90° Lens with Base for 10W Led Panel

62mm Lens Reflector with Base for 20-100W LED Lamp Blub

I would be grateful if help me with your practical suggestions before buy them.

sincerely
 
trggerman said:
i have a couple of meanwell HLG-185-48-B which has a rating of 48V 3.9A. I used that to power my DIY 3w CREE led panel but has taken them down and I'm currently using AIs.

i was looking at some multichip LEDs to supplement my AIs. is there a multichip LED that can be used pn my 48V 3.9A driver. These drivers are just collecting dust and it would be great to have a multichip that can fit right in.
Click to expand...


You should look for 45 mil Epistar panels 60 watts and over:
Some examples:

EPISTAR 60W Actinic Blue Hybrid 45mil LED
EPISTAR 100W Super Actinic Blue Hybrid Led Panel for Aquarium
100W 20000K High Power 10000LM LED Panel for Aquarium
120W White High Power 12000LM LED Panel

All of them will give aroun 130 W at 3.9 A

I´ll think that the 60 W is the best choise for you - its blue but not so blue as Super Actinic

Sincerely Lasse
 
Mehdi_ir00 said:
Hi Guys

I read these comments and they were interesting.I am pleased to face with this.

However,the size of my aquarium is
Length 180 CM
width 50 CM
Height 70 CM

I decided to buy These LEDs for my tank and I want use 90degree lens for them.

Three EPISTAR 50W 16000K High power 800LM
Two EPISTAR 20W 10000K
Two EPISTAR 16W Greenhouse Fast Grow Led Panel
Three EPISTAR 20W 430nm UV LED Panel
Three EPISTAR 20W 445nm Royal Blue 45mil LED Panel for Aquarium
Three EPISTAR New 40mil 10W 450nm Royal Blue LED Panel for Aquarium
and
62mm 90° Lens with Base for 10W Led Panel

62mm Lens Reflector with Base for 20-100W LED Lamp Blub

I would be grateful if help me with your practical suggestions before buy them.

sincerely
Click to expand...

I would consider to change the 10 watt´s 450 to 20 watts 455 nm.
The greenhause chip will you probably run very low after a while because they will probably dominate in colour.

Sincerely Lasse
 
Thank for your help

What about other LEDs and lens?are the rest of them fine?do you think I should reduce greenhause chip or change them to the other one?

sincerely
 
Mehdi_ir00 said:
Thank for your help

What about other LEDs and lens?are the rest of them fine?do you think I should reduce greenhause chip or change them to the other one?

sincerely
Click to expand...

My first multichip built has the ratio 2:1 of white:blue. Nowadays I aim to 1:1 ratio at least


About the greenhouse chip - I do not know. I have not tested it. Probably it will put some red colours to your tank and you will be able to have sunrise and sunset. For some corals it can have a biological role but not for all types. I also know that red will dominate - so you will probably end up with using them at a low intensity. You have a long tank so if you choose to use them - use 2<O:p</O:p

Sincerely Lasse<O:p</O:p
 
Lassef said:
You should look for 45 mil Epistar panels 60 watts and over:
Some examples:

EPISTAR 60W Actinic Blue Hybrid 45mil LED
EPISTAR 100W Super Actinic Blue Hybrid Led Panel for Aquarium
100W 20000K High Power 10000LM LED Panel for Aquarium
120W White High Power 12000LM LED Panel

All of them will give aroun 130 W at 3.9 A

I´ll think that the 60 W is the best choise for you - its blue but not so blue as Super Actinic

Sincerely Lasse
Click to expand...

Thanks. But 50W, 60W or even 100W takes on a VF of 36V while my HLG cranks out 48V. That is what I'm trying to figure out, can a LED with VF of 36V be used in a driver that gives out 48V?
 
trggerman said:
Thanks. But 50W, 60W or even 100W takes on a VF of 36V while my HLG cranks out 48V. That is what I'm trying to figure out, can a LED with VF of 36V be used in a driver that gives out 48V?
Click to expand...

Yes - because they are Constant Current Drivers. They always "cranks" out the chosen amperage but vary the voltage after the load. Opposite to "normal" drivers. Meanwell gives a constant current region for most of their drivers. For the HLG - 185 b-series there are no such constant current region given for the moment but in the same type (HLG) the drivers below HLG - 80 and over HLG - 240 is a constant current region given. I assume that the reason why Meanwell not have any constant current region given for HGL - 100 to HGL - 185 is a mistake. Normally its between 100 % and 60 % of the given voltage. Neither from the beginning it was nor for the other either. How many "3" watts did you have in the daisy chain in your build before?


You can’t use 50 watts even if they are 45 mil. It must be over 60.
<O:p

Sincerely Lasse<O:p
 
Lassef said:
Yes - because they are Constant Current Drivers. They always "cranks" out the chosen amperage but vary the voltage after the load. Opposite to "normal" drivers. Meanwell gives a constant current region for most of their drivers. For the HLG - 185 b-series there are no such constant current region given for the moment but in the same type (HLG) the drivers below HLG - 80 and over HLG - 240 is a constant current region given. I assume that the reason why Meanwell not have any constant current region given for HGL - 100 to HGL - 185 is a mistake. Normally its between 100 % and 60 % of the given voltage. Neither from the beginning it was nor for the other either. How many "3" watts did you have in the daisy chain in your build before?


You can't use 50 watts even if they are 45 mil. It must be over 60.
<O:p

Sincerely Lasse<O:p
Click to expand...


for each HLG, 48 3w crees. 12 pcs in series to make a chain, and 4 chains in parallel. and i used 6 HLGs on my tank.
 
I’m 99 % sure it will work because you have run your 4 daisy chains around 0.98 A (3.9/4) If you have RB XP-E - your FV at 0.98 A is around 3.5 V - 12 in a daisy chain = 42 V. If you have XT-E - the total FV is 38.4. Rapid LED says about HLG -185-42B that it manage from 1 to 12 individual LED (Cree) in a daisy chain. (Personally I doubt 1).

Your drivers will give you 3.9 A and it will adjust the voltage to suit your LED. Write to Meanwell and ask for the constant current region for HLG-185 -48B. does it start below 30 V - it works even if it goes up to 48 V.

Sincerely Lasse<O:p</O:p
 
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