Minimalistic multichip DIY LED build

some over all comment on a few things.

We all have personal opinions on various things. Just because someone disagrees with our opinion does not them wrong or make us wrong. We all have different experiences and therefore develop our own preferences. Many things people say here I gree with 100% and others I totaly disagree with. But that does not give me or anyone elkse the right to attack them. Remember there are many way to skin the same cat.

Now on the driver quality. Saying drivers from China or anywhere else are of lower quality is sometimes true and other times very misleading. There are probably a dozen different driver designes used in China. They are all probably workable with in there own specific application. It is when we push the application beyound its purpose that we run into problems. Some Drivers are simply not designed to run for long periods of time or to last for years of operation. Yet many of the retail sellers on the end are either unaware or simply silent on there limitations. this is where the dollar to somew is more important than the long term customer satisfaction.

I have used several brands of drivers. Right now I have about a dozen meanwell drivers running for 1 to 2 years without any issues. I also had other brands that I had used with mixed results. To date I had 3 drivers fail from other brands. However in none of the cases was it 100% the drivers fault. In two cases it was salt that got into the driver and corroded parts, and in the third it was a chain reaction where cheap diodes went wild from a lack of proper cooling. While the driver continued to put out the proper current the voltage increased because of the increased resistance of the LED chain that eventual roasted the driver. Current was constant voltage rose resulting in the wattage rising beyound what the driver was designed for.
 
Hello, question ..
I bought a few of these multi led chips off Ebay and hooked it to a old PC power supply +12v line as it says to use +12v to power these .. after hooking it up and powering on the power supply .. i get it to fire up, but its strobes so bad that it makes it useless..

Do i need a special driver to run these or can i make and use an alternative like a pc power supply??

Robert

pc psu works great with 10 watters. 20+watts run at 32/36v so pc psu wont work. i just built a 40 watt (4x10watters) with pc psu works great. pc psu are very reliable and by far the cheapest drivers period.:spin2:
i can easily add another 21x10 watt leds using the same driver! now thats cheap.
 
10w are pretty cheap to run, I use a sure 10w driver and a 12v wall wart

I was messing around with my reef tank and I noticed how much better my neon tetra's looked with some actinic, now I've got a 10w actinic over the fw tank, plants seem to like it
 
The new Vero chips are 110lm/w which is 20% brighter, as advertised. Lumens are a poor metric for reef lighting as they are geared for human eyesight and our limitations. We see green light as "bright" so a phosphor mix that creates a lot of green light will increase the lumens, but not necessarily make the light any "brighter" for corals.

Blue light does not create a lot of lumens, but it does offer a lot of PAR which is a better metric for reef lighting.
 
I just wanted to say thank you for an amazing thread. I am considering a dyi led project and would like some advise. I would like to use an LED chip set that has the same look as the GHL mitras fixture or is this impossible to replicate?
Tanks
 
The key word being "opinion". Again, you are welcome to any opinion you choose, but when you offer that opinion in public and ask for "evidence" then you should expect to get what you ask for and that is what has been kindly provided.

I am not griping about anything, I am attempting to inform you (by relevant example) regarding the nature of electronics design and manufacture as it relates the the inexpensive "china" components and devices. If you are wish to ignore the context in order to avoid those facts, that too is your prerogative.

"Simple" does not equate to reliable in terms of electronics circuit design. Simple may equate to inexpensive. In the end, you are calling BS after being offered facts, and oddly have nothing to support your opinion, other than your... opinion.

In the end, nobody here is going to be upset or offended by what driver you use and nobody here is trying to sell you anything. You are free to choose your products based on the criteria you set forth. At the same time, others following along may benefit by understanding the differences in design or product choices, including the expected performance of certain brands or types of electronics components.

That's funny you say that Bean because Mr. willson did try to sell me his lighting after asking more about it when I seen some pics in one of his posts

I also love how you jump in on all of these DIY threads bostting about how much you know, and that you are always right.

Remember how you knew all there was to know about the DIY HID lighting
 
That's funny you say that Bean because Mr. willson did try to sell me his lighting after asking more about it when I seen some pics in one of his posts
It sure would appear that you have ignored an awful lot of context for the sake of simply trying to stir up trouble.

In any case, you appear to have asked a guy about a product he sells. In that context, I am not sure what you expected as an answer. It appears that he is a sponsor and appears (at least to me) to be following the rules.

I also love how you jump in on all of these DIY threads bostting about how much you know, and that you are always right
If you feel that I am wrong regarding any particular topic or subject matter, I will be more than happy to give you the opportunity to prove as much in respectful conversation in the appropriate forum or thread. As for being "wrong", I am wrong about many things every day. When I am ignorant of a subject or find myself at odds with the facts, I strive to correct the matter. That is, each day is a learning experience.

Remember how you knew all there was to know about the DIY HID lighting
I remember pointing out some of the many problems regarding "automotive HID lamps" being used to light a reef tank and putting those problems into context to cost, spectral suitability, lumen maintenance, etc. Nonetheless, that topic really has nothing to do with this thread.
 
Hi, I need Help???? please....help me
I have one question HLG-120H-54 (mean well) or HLG-100H-36B is goot working ????
Circuit: Connect 2 x 50W LED in series LED specs: 27 volts, 1.8A
 
Thank you very much for your answer.
What is better to use HLG-120H-54 (mean well) or HLG-100H-54 (mean well) ?????

"You should wire the two chips parallel, not series" what is better????

what is better???? series or parallel please healp me ....
If series which driver to use ???
If parallel which driver to use ???
Me Chip is 2 x 50W Actinic Royal Blue Hybrid Led Saving Lamp for Aquarium Bulb

(Color Temperature/Wavelength: 24 chips 10000K + 24 chips 445-460nm Royal Blue
LED chips: EPISTAR ES-B4545V-A3 45x45 mil
DC Forward Voltage (VF): 24.0V-28.8V DC
DC Forward Current (IF): 1800-1900mA
Viewing Angle: 120-140 Degree
Life span: 30000-50000 hours guarantee
Item include: 1pc 50W LED http:)
 
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I need some advice here.

My tank is a standard 4x2x2'. I am not looking to light up the whole tank, but only a particular spot where the most light demanding SPS is. I'll be using it like a spot light.

The spot is about 1x1' roughly 1' under the water line. I would like to have the fixture about 5" above the water line.

What kind of wattage and lens should I be looking at? I would use only blue LED, or may be blue + red LED. But not white LED.

Thank you. :)
 
Thank you very much for your answer.
What is better to use HLG-120H-54 (mean well) or HLG-100H-54 (mean well) ?????

"You should wire the two chips parallel, not series" what is better????

what is better???? series or parallel please healp me ....
If series which driver to use ???
If parallel which driver to use ???
Me Chip is 2 x 50W Actinic Royal Blue Hybrid Led Saving Lamp for Aquarium Bulb

(Color Temperature/Wavelength: 24 chips 10000K + 24 chips 445-460nm Royal Blue
LED chips: EPISTAR ES-B4545V-A3 45x45 mil
DC Forward Voltage (VF): 24.0V-28.8V DC
DC Forward Current (IF): 1800-1900mA
Viewing Angle: 120-140 Degree
Life span: 30000-50000 hours guarantee
Item include: 1pc 50W LED http:)

You have two chips each drawing up to 28.8 VDC at 1900ma.

If wired in series the driver needs to be able produce 57.6 Volts at 1.9 Amps. This is 110 wats and you want at least a 10% saftey margine so you need a driver rated at 121 or more watts. An HLG 150H-54 can run up to 58 volts and can have the current turned down to as low as 1680 ma so it is a possibility.

If wired in parrelles you will need 28.8 Volts on your driver with a capability of 3.8 Amps. An HLG 150H-36 would be ideal here. The current can be set to max out anywhere between 3 and 5 amps, plus the voltage can be adjusted to max out anywhere between 27 and 33 volts.
 
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I need some advice here.

My tank is a standard 4x2x2'. I am not looking to light up the whole tank, but only a particular spot where the most light demanding SPS is. I'll be using it like a spot light.

The spot is about 1x1' roughly 1' under the water line. I would like to have the fixture about 5" above the water line.

What kind of wattage and lens should I be looking at? I would use only blue LED, or may be blue + red LED. But not white LED.

Thank you. :)

From what I gather you looking a 1 foot circle about 16" from the LED. For starters you would want a 30 degree lens then this led which would give you about a 16" circle. I doubt you be able to find one of about 22 degrees that would be even more ideal.

With the single LED covering just this small are and you also having other light I would go very high on the wattage. Probably at the most 10 Watts with a dimmable driver or only 3 to 5 watts with a nion dimmable driver.
 
This is it guys if you don't knock off the bickering, linking, redirecting, or anything else we have already said not to do (over and over again) this thread will be closed.
No more warnings. One more mod edit will close it. So lets all play nice and keep the thread on track. :)
 
From what I gather you looking a 1 foot circle about 16" from the LED. For starters you would want a 30 degree lens then this led which would give you about a 16" circle. I doubt you be able to find one of about 22 degrees that would be even more ideal.

With the single LED covering just this small are and you also having other light I would go very high on the wattage. Probably at the most 10 Watts with a dimmable driver or only 3 to 5 watts with a nion dimmable driver.

Thanks. :) You are about right. I have MH on the tank, but I intend to cut down the hours to a minimal. So most of the time only this small LED spot light would be on and it's better to count the MH out.

If the wattage required is modest, may be it's not worth the effort and cost to do this? There are a lot of screw on LED bulbs on eBay that can be had rather cheaply. Like 3x3W white, or 4x1W blue, both with 30 deg spread.

I found a 4x3W blue but they cost a bit more and the spread is 60 deg.
 
Also how do we get the right lens for these multi chips?

On eBay, the diameter and the focal length are indicated. But the angles are indicated as a range, like 5-90 deg, or 30-130 deg. 5 deg and 90 deg is a lot of difference, how do we know what we are getting?
 
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