MRC Club

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hey now,

Ok...since I feel like I hijacked the cuhungas out of this thread...I am here to report that Sam and I are now currently undergoing secret special ops dialouges on this matter. This is some top secret stuff... now...back to the regularly scheduled program... :D

I will report back once the mission is complete.

fubar,
-jared-
 
here is the sump pic, the isse is just a leak on the input, and thus the losing of air control

60535frankensteinofplumbing2-med.JPG


sam
 
For all of you MRC club members.....I am thinking about getting an MR-2 skimmer for my soon to be 120 gallon FOWLR tank with probably about 60 gallons of sump volume. I plan on stocking it decently heavily with small fish and was wondering if a MR-2 would be a good choice for my system or would the MR-1 be good enough? Also, does the skimmer need to be above the water level of the sump? I cannot run my skimmer outside of the tank so it needs to be able to fit under the stand (which I havent built yet). Thanks!
 
I would go with the MR-2. If your going to run the skimmer in-sump, make sure the water level is constant and I wouldn't have the water level higher than the top of the skimmer box, an inch or 2 below would be better.
 
Ereefic,

take it easy on the guy, his learning :D

bluesop7,

I would choose the MR2 over the MR1 mainly for size, the body of the MR2 has such a nice size that upgrading is a piece of cake, 6" reaction chamber,

only thing about running insump is that the water level in the sump must to be any higher than the water mixing black box.

sam
 
Blue you can run in sump, I'll let someone more knowledgable pop in some info.

I have a question for all quick release people. Now will yours leak if water is above the quick release? I had a propblem when i cleaned mine out and turned it back on. I closed up the gate a little and water went rising so i got it where i wanted, and screwed it the wrong way LOL and water went higher, and started pouring out thru the quick release.
I know of one other that had the same problem.
Anybody know what its from? Yep its tight.
I flipped around the o ring and i pushed water that high again, But just a drizzle came out. Is the orings in them worthless?
 
I wont be running it in-sump. Just inside my stand. Unless yall think i would be better off to just go ahead and run it in sump? Hmmm, that might present a challenge though on getting the skimmer high enough. Maybe I'll just have to figure out a way to run it outside of my stand.
 
Creetin,
Sometimes when you are trying to get an O ring to seal you can tighten it too tight and get it in a bind. Just snug usually works better. Also some kind of lubrication(saliva works well) helps. Don't know if that's your problem but worth a try.
Chris
 
Jared,

here is mine, with a piece of flex to manage the angle of the sump, so the bulk head would seal nicely,

and got on the output a female barb, you will need female and male slips on

60535ozone.jpg


and Ereefic this one is not the best pic, the pluming is not photo lover :D

sam
 
Sam do you suggest I make my outlet same as yours? Get the grey barbthat screws onto outlet of pump and then just slide the flex pvc over the barb and tighten with clamp?
There is something refreshing about not seeing purple primer at every join.
Am I right in saying that you dont have any glue on the outlet connecting to flex pvc? just the clamp?

man...and I wanted to stop hogging this thread...hehehee
 
jaredt,

just the clamp, either way is fine, and no pvc glue there,

don't worry we are here to help :D

Creetin,

mine is good, putting some vaseline on the o-ring should help

sam
 
Nunez,

I have been reading through the this thread and I keep seeing people refer to a riser pipe. What is it for, and where would I install it on my skimmer? My MR3 arrives tomorrow and I would like to know before I start plumbing it.

Thanks
 
the riser is placed to raise the height of the beckett injector. This will allow you to raise the water level in the main skimmer body more easily.

If you have a pressure rated pump then it really doesn't matter. I have an mr3, driven by a pcx-55.......and I have the water level just above the beckett line without any problems
 
Capt.,

I am driving mine with a Blueline HD70 (or I will be when it arrives tomorrow). So if I understand you correctly, with that pump I don't need to worry about a riser, correct?

Thanks
 
Also,

Reading back in the thread before the last split, I see several reference's to T's on the pump inlet - this one makes sense to me, a Tee with a removable cap so that the pump can be manually primed - is this correct?

But there is also a reference to a tee on the outlet to prevent a siphon. Can someone explain that to me?

Thanks
 
cmhollis,

the risers we were talking are the ones that make the main reaction chamber taller, thus increasing performance and contact time,

example if you buy an MR2, you can buy a riser, 6"x8", and add it to the skimmer and it turns it into an MR3 :)

check out the risers at the bottom of this page,
http://www.myreefcreations.com/psaccessories.htm

The "t" on the output of the skimmer is needed if the output is submerged, otherwise is not needed, keeps the skimmer from making a siphon,

The "t" on the input of the skimmer is used to filled the line if someone doesn't want to drill or can't drill the sump, and thus uses an over the top pvc loop, and the "t" with a cap is used to fill the line, then the "t" is cap and the line is ready, this is called priming the pump,

this "t" can be skip if ones wanted to, just by filling the line from the output, from the top piece of the beckett housing, thus priming the pump,

hope this made sense :D

sam
 
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