MRC Club
- Thread starter gregt
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steve68 said:
Thanks for taking a look at the pics! One reason why I am glad that I went here first before gluing everything!
I am going to take everything down and put in just the skimmer and related items to test it out for the backpressure. Would it be immediately apparent (the rise and fall of the water)? Adding a T would most likely force me to redo the sump or do what I was trying to avoid.......drilling. But in the interest of doing this right!
Thanks again!
my2girls,
I think I adjust my MR2 a little different than most.
Air closed. set water level to 4 inches above mixing box.
Open air valve 1 turn. Wait 1/2 hour. check for foam. Open gate valve if it starts to overflow. Easy on the gate valve a small turn makes a big difference.
Open air valve another 1/2 turn. Wait 1/2 hour. Check for foam.Open gate valve if it overflows.
Etc., etc. When I get the foam I want, adjust gate valve until foam flows into cup. It takes time but this works for me.
Dave
I think I adjust my MR2 a little different than most.
Air closed. set water level to 4 inches above mixing box.
Open air valve 1 turn. Wait 1/2 hour. check for foam. Open gate valve if it starts to overflow. Easy on the gate valve a small turn makes a big difference.
Open air valve another 1/2 turn. Wait 1/2 hour. Check for foam.Open gate valve if it overflows.
Etc., etc. When I get the foam I want, adjust gate valve until foam flows into cup. It takes time but this works for me.
Dave
samsfishnchips
Premium Member
NoSchwag said:
good suggestions,
there are two very important points, that I have notice
1. the less restriction on the output the better
2. the more power the pump, the more air you can inject while still maintaining very fine bubbles
I would let the skimmer run for a few hours without putting the hands in the tank, or feeding, then
I would do 2 full turns open first, adjust the water level to my desire skimmate color, really wet, or really dry or in-between, etc.
then I will open the the air valve in small increments and see how much air I can inject while still maintaining fine bubbles, and adjust the water level to compensate the air adjustments,
every setup is different, and every pump is different, so after making this adjustment you will find the sweet spot of the (skimmer-pluming) / (pump-ft head loss) combination with (air-water level)
and them just remember that setting, only thing that would change is that if you want wetter raise the water level, drier lower it a bit, and that's it,
sam
capt. insano
New member
others might correct me, but I believe you need between 1200 and 1500 gph to drive dual becketss.....I don't think 790 gph from that pump is going to do it properly
capt. insano
New member
I personally like gen-x pcx pumps
a pcx-70 is rated at 1500 gph and would drive both becketts
a pcx-70 is rated at 1500 gph and would drive both becketts
capt. insano
New member
I didn't know that about recirculating skimmers......I thought that you still need a minimum gph running thru the actual beckett for it to be effective and that the recirculating function added to the already aerated water in the simmer box??
samsfishnchips
Premium Member
my2girls,
you can do more and lower the water line,
sam
you can do more and lower the water line,
sam
Am I on right path?
Am I on right path?
Hey all,
First I would like to thank those who have helped so far. Drilling my sump for my intake on the pump really did make a difference! For those newbies who are hesitant about drilling like I was, it REALLY is easy if you do good prep and take your time.
Some particulars: I have a MR1 with a GenX PCX 30. I have my skimmer in sump with the gate valve about 2 inches away from wall of sump. I fired up the pump and adjusted the gate valve where the water level is approx. 1" above the black box in the first riser. I also had my needle valve closed and opened it up 1/4 turn. Oh, I also put some salt in the sump to simulate as best as I could for my testing. I want to get to know how this thing acts before I put it to the REAL test.
So my question is, where to from here to see if I am on the right path and signs on that the skimmer is doing what it is supposed to do???
THANKS
Am I on right path?
Hey all,
First I would like to thank those who have helped so far. Drilling my sump for my intake on the pump really did make a difference! For those newbies who are hesitant about drilling like I was, it REALLY is easy if you do good prep and take your time.
Some particulars: I have a MR1 with a GenX PCX 30. I have my skimmer in sump with the gate valve about 2 inches away from wall of sump. I fired up the pump and adjusted the gate valve where the water level is approx. 1" above the black box in the first riser. I also had my needle valve closed and opened it up 1/4 turn. Oh, I also put some salt in the sump to simulate as best as I could for my testing. I want to get to know how this thing acts before I put it to the REAL test.
So my question is, where to from here to see if I am on the right path and signs on that the skimmer is doing what it is supposed to do???
THANKS
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