MRC Club

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John,

I put ball valves in mine with unions so that I can isolate and remove everything for cleaning if necessary.

HTH,

Mike
 
MdM31,

what can you expect from people like this :D

Dear WaterKeeper,

I have a 55 with 50 lbs of LR and 100 lbs of LS.....My tank has been curing for two weeks. Can I put salt in the water now?

Sincerely,

A Newbie

Dear Newbie,

AHHHHHHH

Yours truly

WaterKeeper

cmhollis

looking good

john37

I like things simple, too many conections, here and there, only leads to problems, seem it all the time, less money and less weak points for a leak = happy camper :D

things you do to the skimmer:

1: clean cup
2: clean beckett head
3: clean pump

leave space and/or put union/ball valves, to let you do them with easy, good luck

sam
 
can someone show me some plumbing ideas. I have a mr2 single injector with a blueline hd40.
Thanks
Michael
P.s. it will be 2 feet elevated above the sump and the return from the gate valve will flow back into the sump. I guess is what plump pips and fittings do I need as I do not know all the names of the fittings.
Ps.s. Any pictures would be most helpful
Ps.s.s.
Thanks
 
i plugged in the pump and.....nothing. There's noise but no water movement.

Does the pump have to be below the water level?
here are a couple pics maybe you guys can tell me what's wrong.
IMG_2333.jpg
IMG_2332.jpg
 
The pump is definately not self priming so you have to get the pump below the water line to feed water to it --
 
Hey John,
A little late now but I would have suggested Spa-Flex plumbing and avoided some of those elbows. They cut back flow. For John and anyone esle interested as long as I am on the subject. I resentily switch my plumbing setup with some good and not so good results. When I ordered my MR-1 I went out and got all the plumbing ahead of time. Basically the setup I thougth made sense.
The pump was a PCX-30 it 3/4 in/out. So 3/4" bulkhead into insert connectors into 3/4" vinyl tubing into 3/4 to 1" into a eblow and into the skimmer. From talking to Andy and you guys earlier in this thread. I found out that this might be less ideal.
So I decide to switch over to everyone suggested plumbing setup. Mainly over-sized, no elbows, and no insert fitting. 1" bulkhead into 1" spa-flex thru the pump right into the skimmer(couple unions). What was the switch worth it?:confused:
When started the skimmer back up the water level ran 5" higher in the skimmer with the same setting. Free perfomance I was wasting. So oversize and avoid elbows would be my tip.
 
Not So Good ?

Yea that well. I started the new setup up and was so impressed. Everything was running good new bulkhead wasn't leaking. Checked the pump. DRIP........DRIP............DRIP:mad:

Okay turned it off, tightened it up, put it back together, started it up. DRIP...........DRIP............DRIP.

Again take it apart tighten more CRACK:eek: Please be the fitting. Please be the fitting. No such luck. I cracked the threads off the output side of the pump.:mad2: I have been told by Mods to stop typing around the profanity filter but some choice word where spoke.
Lets see shipping during the holiday season no thanks. I didn't want to wait on parts from Gen-X so I decided to get a new pump. So off to the LFS. Generally not great and a sweet 40% mark up over mailorder. I had two choices another GEN-X PCX-40 for $220 :eek2: or a Coralife Turbo-Sea 1090. I went with the Coralife. If anyone is looking for the PERFECT pump for a MR-1 this is it. I came to find out that it is made in part or in whole by Pan-world. Very nice, quite(gen-x wasn't), cool to the touch, and the cooliest thing of all is that with the air off and the water all the way open the water level sit at 2" above the skimmer box. So basically I can't cram anymore water thru the skimmer than what I got know with out losing adjustablily. Annoying mistake but I ended coming out ahead in the end. I will have some pics soon.
 
I am so very very upset right now that i dont even know what to do w/myself.
so finally finished the plumbing and decided to start the skimmer up. water starts rushing into the skimmer very quickly and begins to overflow so i grab the skimmer cup tube to put the output side into the sump and BOOM! i'm like what the hell....yes i am an idiot. should have opened the gate valve....about have of the black box in the back busted off.
can i just use weld on and put it back on? i dont even want to take a picture of it. Just one huge piece. i really feel like crying...and i dont cry.
 
That is a major bummer -- do you have any weld? -- make sure everything is extremely dry and do you have any clamps? make sure you take your time if you are going to attempt a fix -- You might get in touch with Andy and see if there is something that he would suggest --
 
I would get the glue that they use for acrylic.. if you have all the pieces i would think it would be your best option. I am surprised it blew.. even with the ball valve closed, I wouldn't think that the pump would generate that much pressure.. Sorry to hear about your luck

Scott
 
quick question... if my gate valve is tee'd and capped... is it normal for it to be spraying a small stream of water out of the hole? it gets annoying and creates salt creep here and there.
thx
 
would be normal if the cap is not sealed -- one thing you could try is putting some teflon tape around the pipe that the cap is installed on -- might create enough seal to prevent the creep.

OH -- you will need to put it on both sides of the pipe that you are using.
 
Maybe the skimmer got damaged in shipping. Like micro cracks or the seam getting tweaked. Wierd that pump makes like 40' max head but I would still think it would blow the drain hose off before it would break the box.
You have to post a pic.
 
IMG_2334.jpg

IMG_2335.jpg

IMG_2336.jpg
Still waiting for a response from andy to see if weld on will be strong enough. dont want to use it and have him say it wont work.

Now a couple happy pictures....The reasons for my grief.
goldflake4.jpg

goldflake4.jpg

IMG_2281.jpg
 
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