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Skimmer looks very nice. I'm very interested in how running it off your overflow works out. I didn't think it was possible with a beckett skimmer because of back pressure?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6373343#post6373343 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Aquaticman74
Please keep us posted on how that works out. I'd really love to run one overflow into a Deltec and the other into a MRC. :D
:eek2: :eek1:
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6373343#post6373343 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Aquaticman74
Please keep us posted on how that works out. I'd really love to run one overflow into a Deltec and the other into a MRC. :D
:eek2: :eek1: sorry man....:)
 
CR-1 or dual nano pH Controller valve?

CR-1 or dual nano pH Controller valve?

I'm in the works of getting a CR setup for my 55 (120 someday) and need the flexibility to upgrade with the same CR. I'm also lazy as they come, so I want to go the controller route. Does the MRC CR series come with the pH controller valve like GEO models?

What are the benefits/drawbacks from MRC vs GEO type CR's? MRC is seemingly the only quality fabricator who can make a unit small enough for my setup?

Thanks,
-Ryan
 
RCA, are you referring to the port for the pH controller in the lid of the reactor to measure effluent? If so, it is not standard on MRC reactors, but you just need to let him know and he can do it for you. GEO, I believe, can also custom make reactors.

I believe the GEO reactors are reverse flow, meaning the pull the water from the top and pump it to the bottom so it flows up threw the media. I think with that design, it will also recirculate any co2 so it can be more efficient.

MRC standard reactor are opposite of that and pull the water threw the media and push it back in threw the top. There is a spraybar upgrade you can get which will pump the water inside the media itself.
 
Covey-???

Ereefic- Yeah, that's what I'm referring to. The port to essentially plug the controller probe into the reactor chamber. I was just wondering if the CR's from MRC came stock with them. It is my current understanding that the GEO 6x12 comes stock with this port--for those who would rather monitor the tank pH with a monitor and use a regulator versus the controller/solenoid measuring the effluent from the chamber, well they can just plug the port with a pvc screw. This is my understanding though. Perhaps I should get in touch with Andy to see about perhaps getting a port put on the lid if I chose to order a MRC CR.

Thanks,
-Ryan
 
in response to my own reply. I just realized what I wrote.

You can also use a monitor to measure the effluent in the chamber with the GEO/MRC port. Not that the solenoid/controller is needed, I just wanted to state that if you don't want to measure the pH of the reaction chamber than you can put a pvc screw in the port and use the monitor to measure the tank pH.

Thanks,
-R
 
I havent experienced any leaks and i have been pretty rough on it, All acryllic products are frgile, and one drop or overturn can cause problems. Sorry i didnt get back to ya sooner.


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6370151#post6370151 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Infinitereef
The $200 deal include the calcium reactor only. It is selling $260 in the MRC website.

I heard about the MRC reactor prone to water leak, but I have my MR2 and I love it.
 
I know this topic is covered million times before but it is almost impossible to find with in the 90+ pages. Can someone please explain the step by step how to set up or tune a MR2 to consistently perform without adjusting it all the time? Assuming the water level in the sump is stable. Sort of dummies guide to MRC setup. I have been struggling with mine for a while and getting to be a pain and a frustration point. I have a MR2 with Gen X PCX 55. It has been running for 2+ months. I am running my water line 1.5" above the box while the air is off. Set water level is always stable does not very not even 1/8th. (I have read so many different variations to this water level I lost track.) Then I open the air valve all the way at this point bubbles will travel up to tube and fill the collector cup instantly. So I turn down the air valve about 2 turns to see bubbles just peeking over the edge of the collector. At this point skimmer produces good slow steady skim. When water level is discussed I am assuming that it is set with the air valve off. Since my water level is stable I try to adjust the amount of skim with air valve. This usually lasts 2 days then there is nothing foam would not come up half way the tube. (Not after feeding or hand in the tank) At that point I turn off the air valve and water level is just where it was set perfectly 1.5" above the box. My air intake is modified with semi flex tubing and PVC carbon filter. The chance of air intake being clogged or fouled is very slim to none. What I am I doing wrong? How can I have this skimmer skim consistently without constantly adjusting it?
Thanks!
Memo
 
How heavily stocked are you? I wonder because mine seems to act in a similar way, but I'm now trying to just leave it alone and see what happens :)
 
The bio load is 110 gal tank, 1 lion 1.5 inch, 1 angel 3" and 1 snow flake 12". 110 lbs live rock few snails and hermits to clean.

When I was looking at the old posts I read something regarding to re-adjusting the water level after the air is turned on due to water level drop. Is the water level re-adjusted to 1-2 inch above the box after the air is turned on?
 
Memo, I am running mine in sump, and the water level in the sump is just below the bottom of the gate valve. With the air off, the water level is about 1" below the second riser tube. I have my air on 4 full turns. After setting it, let it run for awhile, it's goind to take time to start skimming. YMMV

I don't think anyone can run the air fully open, or even close to that. If I do that, the bubbles are just to big.
 
ereefic, my skimmer is not in the sump. The bottom of the gate valve is about 1" above the high water line in the sump. Sump water level is controlled by auto topper and fluctuates 1/2" at most. Water is channeled by bulk head straight in to the sump and discharged by T. PVC discharge pipes are level to slight down angel. My question is do you re-adjust the water level 1-2" above the bucket while the air is running? Because if you are running 1" below the second riser tube and when the air is turned on it will probably drop to 2" or so above the bucket. What I am trying to say is that you probably see 2" or so water in the riser tube and then air bubbles while you are running. Maybe that is point I am wrong and need to bring the water level up. This can not be that complicated. Thanks!
 
I have my outlet appx. 1/2" above the water line w/ a good 1/2" per foot slope as well. Also using a pcx55. I have found that it takes awhile for it to get to the level where it is actually going to run (if that makes sense) I currently have the water level appx 3" below the riser and about 3 turns from max on the stock air intake. Mine will run very nicely for a couple days, but then I'll see that it looks like there's no skimming action all of a sudden. I used to try fiddling w/ the air mixture, etc then, but as I said, now I'm just going to leave it alone. I think that becketts are just somewhat sensitive to (unknown to me) outside factors.
 
Please let me know what happens. I will try to do the same and see if comes back to life by it self. Thanks for the input. I thought I was the only one going insane.
 
Memo, set your water level with the air off. Then turn on your air. After turning on the air, it will take some time to get to where it's going to be.
 
Hello people. I'm debating on whether to get an MRC-2 or 3 for a 120 gal I'm building, but I have some questions. I just bought an Iwaki MD55RLT, so I'm assuming that one injector would be ideal, correct? Also, is the quick release nice to have, or is it not that big of a deal? I know the MRC-2 is probably enough for a 120, but the MRC-3 would give more contact time for dry skimming, and I plan on DIY'ing a wet neck for it too. Any opinions on what I should get?
 
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