MRC Club
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steve68
New member
flyingace2005
raise ur water level.
Im pretty sure it still creates a syphon
do u mean back pressure?
with my pump & the gate valve wide open my water level is 1 inch above the box, it has to do with the pressure of ur pump, IME thats normal.
& yes the bulkheads are threaded, the 1.5 inch elbow slips right over it.
Ereefic ur water stays perfect cuz there is no back pressure & ur skimmer is not on an angle like his, IME u cant run a skimmer on an angle they just were not made for that reasond.
raise ur water level.
Im pretty sure it still creates a syphon
do u mean back pressure?
with my pump & the gate valve wide open my water level is 1 inch above the box, it has to do with the pressure of ur pump, IME thats normal.
& yes the bulkheads are threaded, the 1.5 inch elbow slips right over it.
Ereefic ur water stays perfect cuz there is no back pressure & ur skimmer is not on an angle like his, IME u cant run a skimmer on an angle they just were not made for that reasond.
sellout007
New member
If I were to put a PH in my tank and run a tube from the discharge down to a bucket and pump water into the bucket and then took the pump off the tube, water would drain down the tube on its own because the water giong down the tube creates the suction. Isnt that the same as my skimmer?
And when I had the 90* on, the water lvl in my skimmer (black box) would only be 1" deep or so. Now with everything open the water lvl is at the top of the black box or just above it starting into the first tube.
Which way is better?
Im not sure what I mean. *lol* I guess it might just be backpressure. I need it tilted to the side and cant go straight down due to my setup. Is that a problem? I see many people put them right over their sumps and let it run straight down into the sump. I cant do that...
So the way I have it set up now with the water lvl at the top of the black box is the correct way? Or should I go back to the 90* tilted sideways a bit which made my water lvl.
Should I try and raise my skimmer up higher and try and tilt the drain as close as I can to point at the ground as I can?
sellout007
New member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7048482#post7048482 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by steve68
may be i miss understood u
is it the 90 on an angle or the whole skimmer?
if ur water level is above the black box i dont see a problem, the higher u raise ur water the weter ur skimate is going to be.
The 90!! *lol*
The 90* elbow I had on there instead of pointing straight down, it points to the left and down on a slight angle. But there was no part for air to get into the tube. Which I was told by Rod (Ereefic will know who I am talking about) and he said I was creating a syphon and was hampering my skimmers production.
The way I have it set up now is with a T connected to the gatevalve and I have the two ends pointing up and down and the other part connected to the skimmer gatevalve. Then I have a *90 elbow running on a very very slight angle to my sump.
With the first set up my water lvl in my black box was only like 1" 2" max. With the second set up, my water lvl is at the bottom of the first tube.
Wiskey
New member
I just found and read the last 45 pages of this thread, I had questions but the last 45 pages perty much answered them.
I receantly bought a MR-2 and am very happy with it; although it is just breaking in (only running 3 days).
Here is my skimmer sitting infront of the tank it is skimming, you can see my old skimmer in the sump, what a diffrence.
Just wanted to check in as part of the club
.
Whiskey
I receantly bought a MR-2 and am very happy with it; although it is just breaking in (only running 3 days).
Here is my skimmer sitting infront of the tank it is skimming, you can see my old skimmer in the sump, what a diffrence.
Just wanted to check in as part of the club
.Whiskey
cmhollis
Active member
My CR-3 appears to be leaking pretty badly around the base. I just got it back from Andy for repairs. When the thing was shipped to Andy, the wonderful USPS abused the package so bad that the cylinder was completely broken off the base. Andy repaired that free of charge. Gotta like that kind of customer service.
Anyhow, I am feeding it off of the discharge of my return pump (Sequence 1000 SW 3200). I have a couple of ball valves on the input side throttled down to help drop the pressure, but I am wondering if the reactor is still seeing too much pressure and this is causing the leak. Anyone else have a similar problem? Is the reactor rated for the kind of pressure coming out of this pump?
I did check that the O-ring was seated properly, and I have felt the bottom of all pressure fittings, they feel dry. That is what leads me to believe that the leak is coming from the base of the cylinder.
I could use some help,
Mike
Anyhow, I am feeding it off of the discharge of my return pump (Sequence 1000 SW 3200). I have a couple of ball valves on the input side throttled down to help drop the pressure, but I am wondering if the reactor is still seeing too much pressure and this is causing the leak. Anyone else have a similar problem? Is the reactor rated for the kind of pressure coming out of this pump?
I did check that the O-ring was seated properly, and I have felt the bottom of all pressure fittings, they feel dry. That is what leads me to believe that the leak is coming from the base of the cylinder.
I could use some help,
Mike
Ereefic
In Memoriam
cmhollis, when I T'd off my return line, I used RO tubing into the reactor, not the 1/2" (I think) tubing that came with the reactor. I used a ball valve to control the flow going into the reactor. My thinking was that this allowed me to put a little more water into the reactor than was coming out of it, reducing the pressure in the reactor. It worked great and never had a problem.
Perhaps your putting too much pressure on the reactor casuing it to leak? If it is leaking around the base, some weld-on should seal it up.
Perhaps your putting too much pressure on the reactor casuing it to leak? If it is leaking around the base, some weld-on should seal it up.
cmhollis
Active member
Ereefic,
From the discharge of my return pump, I reduce it down to 3/8" RO tubing. There is a ball valve and a needle valve in the line to help control the effluent drip rate. It is then reduced down to 1/4" to match the reactors plumbing.
I will take the chamber apart, and put a fillet of Weld-On on the inside. Any particular Weld-On I should use?
BTW, if you are putting more water into your reactor than you are taking out, you will cause the pressure to rise.
Mike
From the discharge of my return pump, I reduce it down to 3/8" RO tubing. There is a ball valve and a needle valve in the line to help control the effluent drip rate. It is then reduced down to 1/4" to match the reactors plumbing.
I will take the chamber apart, and put a fillet of Weld-On on the inside. Any particular Weld-On I should use?
BTW, if you are putting more water into your reactor than you are taking out, you will cause the pressure to rise.
Mike
On another note a local reefer is going to use a dart on his mr2.
I am seriously thinking on it if i cant subdue the noise from the iwaki 70. Andy told him that it would have enough power to handle a dual beckett.
I have a dart and will try it as soon as i getthe time.
I am seriously thinking on it if i cant subdue the noise from the iwaki 70. Andy told him that it would have enough power to handle a dual beckett.
I have a dart and will try it as soon as i getthe time.
sellout007
New member
I talked to Andy(?) and he said the Dart is being used by MR4 owners and its mroe then enough flow. He said If i was to use it on my MR2 I would need to add a gatevalve to it and throttle it back even with dual injectors and a riser.
On another note, my MR2 is ****ing me off. The beckett is rattling ridiculous style. Ive taken it apart and it was clean, twice ive doen this now. And it still rattles. The becket is just bouncing back and forth in the casing. This is really getting to me since my tank is in my livingroom and kitchen. Its a brand new injector, not even two weeks old yet.
Im calling MRC come monday. And Im still not convinced I have it dialed in correctly.
On another note, my MR2 is ****ing me off. The beckett is rattling ridiculous style. Ive taken it apart and it was clean, twice ive doen this now. And it still rattles. The becket is just bouncing back and forth in the casing. This is really getting to me since my tank is in my livingroom and kitchen. Its a brand new injector, not even two weeks old yet.
Im calling MRC come monday. And Im still not convinced I have it dialed in correctly.
sellout007
New member
Superglue what? Do you mean superglue it into the top part of the injector? What if I need to take it apart and clean it?
Bryan89
Premium Member
A few pages back, you can see what to superglue. When you take the beckett apart, it breaks down into three pieces. Two are nearly identical and makeup the part you can see (the outer part of the beckett). Internally (and not normally visible) is a part that looks like an arrow with a ball on the end. The ball goes down (towards the discharge of the beckett). What appears as feathers on the arrow has two tabs that stick out and fit into notches in the side of the outer part of the beckett. You can apply a small amount of superglue to one side of the beckett at this notch to permanently seal half of the beckett housing and the internal portion of the beckett. That should eliminate noise.
That all being said, IME the becketts are nearly silent and do not rattle. I found the superglue unnecessary.
HTH
Bryan
PS You can PM me and come over or call me tomorrow to talk through repairs.
sellout007
New member
Thanks for the lengthy response, thats what I was wondering. What part of the becket to superglue.
And Im not sure what you mean by the last part, as I am 100% posative its making noise.
Bryan89
Premium Member
Hmmm..it is strange that it is making rattling noises, my dual beckett MR-3 never does. I do also use Dwyer airflow meters to adjust the airflow to 35 scfh per beckett, maybe this helps?
I did put my becketts back together incorrectly once (did not put the tabs in the notch) and they were really loud and didn't work very well. That is the only time they made sounds similar to rattling.
I do not doubt that your becketts are making noise, I just have not experianced it when I had the becketts correctly assembled.
I did put my becketts back together incorrectly once (did not put the tabs in the notch) and they were really loud and didn't work very well. That is the only time they made sounds similar to rattling.
I do not doubt that your becketts are making noise, I just have not experianced it when I had the becketts correctly assembled.
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