MRC Club

Status
Not open for further replies.
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8240924#post8240924 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by yupi1982
:bum: YES SIR !!

yupiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii wupu pu pu !!!

I just got my new MRC 4 RECIRCULATED ....awesome !!!
i made the request to andy to get me the ozone port ...

but i really dont know how to use them or what to do ??
do i have to purshacse something else and plug it onto the skimmer??

HELP:confused:

Ok, having an ozone port is useless unless you have an ozone "machine" I'd call it.

Red Sea make one with the controller. A lot of people use a cheaper Enaly and they seem to like it.

Another thing u can use your ozone port for is your CA Reactor input. :)
 
Woodwrangler,
I just did the U tube mod and discovered that there is some variation on the placement of the bulkhead holes and therefore, the bulkheads themselves. Some fit tight and some dont. I used 1 1/2 PVC, made the U tube and it just slid off the bulkhead. I talked to Steve68 and here is the solution if I understand your problem correctly. (It is slipping off right?) Wrap the outside of the bulkhead elbow in electrical tape. Yep electrical tape!!! Do a few turns at a time and test fit it onto the bulkhead. When you get enough, it acts like a bushing between the outside of the PVC elbow and the side of the acrylic box and it holds tight. I did this 2 months ago and no problems whatsoever. And ZERO microbubbles out of the skimmer return... Good luck.

PS MAke sure you use 1 1/2 PVC From what I understand, 1 1/4 creates back pressure. This should work for you.


Utubemodwithtape.jpg
 
Forgot to add that your pump is putting out about twice what the recommended pumps for the MR-2 put out. I am using a Blueline 55, about 1100 gph. Also MRC lists the Gen-X 55 also about 1100 gph.. I dont know why your air shuts down when you restrict it though. I'll let one of the MRC gurus comment on that one.
 
drstupid, thanks for the reco on the filter sock, but I am really trying to avoid using them. Are you just cramming you filter sock under water and connecting it to the output, or are you T'ing up the output and therefore creating back pressure on the skimmer? You don't have a picture handy, do ya?

Thanks for the advice Mark, but I must have portrayed the wrong problem. My bulkheads are too close to the sides of the box, and therefore I cannot cram a 1 1/2" fitting over the bulkhead. I can, however, use a 1" short pipe, to a 1" x 1 1/4" reducer fitting to a 1 1/4" 90, but I thought I read that it has to be 1 1/2" to work properly, as you stated above as well. I may just have to live without the u-tube mod. Nice use of the electrical tape, though.

I also appreciate the thoughts on the pump, as it confirmed my suspicion that the pump was way too large. Maybe this weekend I will try to put a "T" on the supply line, and just dump some back to the sump. Although, it looks like I need to dump a lot of pressure, so maybe i'll feed the chiller or something. Maybe the extra large pump is also contributing to the bubbles back to the display.
 
Woodwrangler, The pump is not too big, the skimmer is too small :-)

I run a Pan World 200ps on my MR-2, but I also have a 20" extension, so the skimmer is about 4' high overall.

In my experience, to get the becketts to really work well, you need to push something like 800 gph through each injector. The injectors produce something like 6-8 feet of head pressure. So your 2249 gph pump, is probably more like 1600 gph (not too big).

How high is the water in your sump??? I believe the output of your skimmer should be above the water level in your sump?
 
woodwrangler, from an old tank setup i had a bracket that holds the polyester filter socks with the solid ring rim on them. that hangs off the edge of the sump so the sock ring is above the water line, the skimmer return is above that and just dumps into the sock. i have been avoiding physical filtration as well, but solving the microbubble crisis quickly was worth the hack. it at least helped me figure out that the skimmer output is not the only source of my microbubbles, but my drain lines need some sort of venting or a melev bubble trap. i'm going to try the u tube mod eventually, but am a little concerned about it all fitting in a much smaller MR1.
 
well, i got my MR-2 up and running last night. the plumbing cost me about $30 just to hook it up! wish i had a bigger sump or i could have saved a few hours too.
all is running well, the pump (gen x 55) is running pretty quiet but i have one problem, i have an old style beckette housing and air is being pulled in between the PVC and the acrylic on the bottom. can i just fill that with weld-on or PVC glue? i dont want to glue pieces together if i can just rebuild it with some teflon tape. let me know what you recommend. thanks guys.
-nick
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8244826#post8244826 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Fiziksgeek
I believe the output of your skimmer should be above the water level in your sump?

Is this true? How come I hear that it doesn't?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8246521#post8246521 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dannieboiz
Is this true? How come I hear that it doesn't?

Not if you water level is stable. I ran my MR2 in sump for quite some time with the output below water level.

FWIW, Chris
 
I didnt mean to say you couldnt run it with the output below the water level, but there is a possibility it is hurting you in this case. With the output underwater, it is causing back pressure, in other words, not letting water escape the skimmer fast enough. The water in the sump acts like a partially closed valve. It sounds like with the pump your using, water can't get out of the skimmer box fast enough even with the gate valve open full. If you have the room, try proping the skimmer up with some sort of plastic container so that the output is at or above the water line in the sump. See if that makes a difference.
 
woodwrangler - I would have to agree with Fiziksgeek in that your skimmer is too deep in the water. I had the same problem with my MR-2 in sump. The output can be underwater, but if the sump water level is too high it will flood the becket. Your sump water level needs to be no more than 10-12 inches deep. My water level in sump is around 15 inches. I have a adjustable skimmer stand I bought through Marine Depot which raised it up 3-5 inches. My output is now around 2" underwater and works great. Just prop up the skimmer with something. As far as water causing back pressure, I don't know. My output shoots to a corner of the baffle and sump wall and works fine.
 
Thanks guys - Currently my water level is about 12 inches deep, and I have the skimmer sitting on a 2" stand. Hopefully this weekend I will have a chance to play around with the height, and either lower the sump level, or raise the skimmer a few more inches. Maybe I will try angleing the skimmer to shoot towards a corner to kill some bubbles, currently I have stacked a wall of rock across the sump from this skimmer for it to blast the output against.

fun,fun,fun
 
For powering the MR2 with dual becketts which pump do you recommend? Iwaki, Gen X PCX, Coralife Turbo-Sea, or Sequence and which model would you choose?
 
Hey sherm, I would go with a sequence tarpon or wahoo. Best rating for the energy, and less noise out of all of the rest of the pressure pumps.
 
I'm looking at some Sequence pumps but don't see the tarpon or wahoo listed. I have listed, S750 and S1000 pumps up to 5800 gph. The Reeflo series, Dart, Baracuda and Hammerhead. Then some Primer pumps the go up to 7200 gph. I really don't want to spend more than $300.00 for the pump.
 
I can get the PCX-55 or 70 for under $150.00. The Turbo-Sea 1100P or 1740P under $250.00. Bad choices? I do plan on running both injectors and may mod it for recirc.
 
sherm71tank,

members have tested the mr2 with dual, and pcx-55 and it does better with one

you would need something along the lines of iwaki 70, blue line 200ps or 250ps, ect

recirc mod? body was tested and conclude by andy that it needed to be bigger,

anyway good luck,

sam
 
So it is better to leave it with just one injector? The PCX-70 is $110.00 cheaper than the MD-70RLT and has the same Max head height.
 
Yes if you go with the pcx 55, but if you go with the 70 you will want the extention, and second injector to getthe most out of it.

I ran the iwaki 70 rlt on it with the extention, and it could have used the second beckett i think because i ran the air wide open, and i just messed with water height.
Without the ext i would go with a pump rated like the iwaki 55.
The pcx 55 will work great with just the MR2. If you want to down the road get the second injector and extention then by all means get the pcx 70.
I am telling you it would rock with that combo. It will with the 55 like it is, But if you like overskimming like me, and can take the extra cost then the add ons are the way to go.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top